Wow! I thought prices for transmission are high up here.
When thinking 4L80E think Th400 with extra gear.
I got a built BBC with 2-250 shots nitrous and the 4L80E and its still holding. Is it built, a little but nothing crazy and l got it for $1800.
You can buy a rebuilt 4L60E/65E for $900 plus exchange and a 4L80E for $1100 here in Ontario. Maybe try taking your 4L65E to a rebuild shop and exchange with an upgrade to 80E?
I have 3 4L60E, Cutlass 400 hp plus, Denali 320 hp and Escalade 320hp and never had an issue but l have hear horror stories about them.
Edit, forgot the Suburban has a 4L60E 325,000kms and mostly pulls trailers and no issue.
If it were my truck......
Good used 4l80e $500
Transgo hd2 kit $100
Circle d torque converter $600
big transmission cooler $100
shorten driveshaft $150
The 4L60-70E sucks, especially the 3-4 clutch pack. Your launch will suffer with a 2.48 first gear vs a 3.06 first gear. Supposedly a 4L80E is good for 600+ hp with just a boost in line pressure.
GM wishes the the 4L60E could take 670 ft/lbs, cut it in half maybe. Also remember you go from a .70 to a .75 overdrive. I assume your truck has tall tires. The 4L80E is a strong trans but the ratios are not ideal at all in my opinion.
Even this is overbuilt but I 100% agree. Stock junkyard runner with an HD2 shift kit will live in a 600whp 3800lb street car. My car build is a used stock gm rebuild with a shift kit and a converter. You need to swap 2 wires in the trans harness and it will pretty much bolt in with a sector swap on your tune and a junkyard driveshaft.
The GM rating is 885 ft. lbs input torque on the 4l80E as to the GM rating of 670 ft. lbs. for the 4l60E. I found a 2009 low mileage 4L80E on Car-Part.com and bought one from a Detroit salvage yard for $500. It came in an Express van which seem to be good candidates for 2wd applications. Most of the prices you see published on Car-Part.com are negotiable. I took it apart with a friend in the transmission business and we installed the Transgo HD2 kit. I didn't know what to expect when taking it apart but it showed little to no signs of wear. I could have left it alone and been OK. In stock form many say they re good for 6-700 HP and with the HD kit they say I have read claims of 1000 or more and Trans go claims they will hold "BIG POWER" he he. I have a good used, low mileage 2004 4L60E for sale if your interested (4x4). Personally I would go for the 80E. Your quoted prices sound really high....You don't have to buy local. I found that 2x4 4L80's are usually cheaper. Hopefully that works in your favor. Good luck brother!
http://www.car-part.com/
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=113471709609
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Jared, I'd go with the 80E also. Obviously I got mine as a good unit from an Express and just put the HD2 kit in it. The converter was the dinger, but for the intended use this trans should do just fine.
I had a really good local shop that does alot of racing stuff quote me a build on mine, they said $2500 with my core and it would be good for 1,400HP+.
Just put a good low mileage used 80E in there with a shift kit and call it a day. The stock flexplate with work with either an LS-style converter or an adapter bushing. Get at least a 3600 stall converter - FTI or Circle D seem like the way to go. Driveshaft is the same length, you just need a new slip yoke - Sonnax has a nice one. Last part is an adapter harness from the 60E to 80E.
extreme automatics makes them too,they've got a good rep check them out.Lonnie's a stand up guy.
I keep seeing references to "low mileage used trans"....where do these come from? Almost everything on the locater has 160-300K miles.
I'd take a stock 4L80 over a built 60/65 any day.
Wait - you have the Sonnax modular 3/4 drum (https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2451-smart-tech-input-housing-kit) in your 65E? If so, that shouldn't have let go. I have that in my TBSS' 70E and it is making way more power.
Regardless, the 80E is the way to go.
Yes I do have it, and it held. The output shaft shattered. Wish I had but a Sonnax hardened output shaft in it at the same time the input/drum went in.
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