I am taking my bench seat consol and modifying it to work with the ahifter. I am in the process of doing this so I do not know how well it is going to turn out.
Manual Conversion
- Thread starter MechMan
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My application is a bit different but it might be some help.
I've got an lt1 t56 behind a iron 6.0 LS.
I used a 85ish s10 manual pedal assy and bolted it to my stock G body pedal box. Also used a t5 3rd gen master bolted to the firewall. Engineers are lazy (take it from one lol) and if they can reuse something already designed they will. Some slight bending here and there and it basically fell right on the G body pedal assy. I'm guessing the same guy that designed the G body pedal assy did the S10 one so that's why it works.
Old s10 pedal box (left) with manual pedal rivets drilled out and bolted to the G body box (right)
I have a stock 2004R auto GP console with a F body shifter position. That is with the stock shifter and a hurst short thow lever (its just short, no modified shifter geometry). It was real short. and didnt allow the lever into 2nd, 4th, or 6th. I built a block that moves the lever up 2" and forward 1" and right 1". I cut the slot between the front and back (piece to the left of the shifter) out and it works good now. I can shift in mid 11 second passes and I don't miss gear.
I've got an lt1 t56 behind a iron 6.0 LS.
I used a 85ish s10 manual pedal assy and bolted it to my stock G body pedal box. Also used a t5 3rd gen master bolted to the firewall. Engineers are lazy (take it from one lol) and if they can reuse something already designed they will. Some slight bending here and there and it basically fell right on the G body pedal assy. I'm guessing the same guy that designed the G body pedal assy did the S10 one so that's why it works.
Old s10 pedal box (left) with manual pedal rivets drilled out and bolted to the G body box (right)
I have a stock 2004R auto GP console with a F body shifter position. That is with the stock shifter and a hurst short thow lever (its just short, no modified shifter geometry). It was real short. and didnt allow the lever into 2nd, 4th, or 6th. I built a block that moves the lever up 2" and forward 1" and right 1". I cut the slot between the front and back (piece to the left of the shifter) out and it works good now. I can shift in mid 11 second passes and I don't miss gear.
Oh, and a stock t56 for an NA LS is fine.
I ran an 11.75 on mine last weekend (blown 6.0 probably 500ish hp) and it snapped a 30 spline 8.5 axle after about a half dozen 1.75 60 ft times.
I'd look at your driveshaft and rear axle before I worry about the trans.
I twisted a non forged 1350 slip yoke last fall.
And chipped a spider gear in the stock diff.
I ran an 11.75 on mine last weekend (blown 6.0 probably 500ish hp) and it snapped a 30 spline 8.5 axle after about a half dozen 1.75 60 ft times.
I'd look at your driveshaft and rear axle before I worry about the trans.
I twisted a non forged 1350 slip yoke last fall.
And chipped a spider gear in the stock diff.
I will probably get a custom driveshaft and the rear I really would like to get a 12 bolt and put in 3:73.
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