Manual swap, with a twist!

[marcar1993]

So, I'm now assembling parts to do my manual swap. I just ordered my John B pedal, I plan to run a 3rd gen clutch master and either a slave or HTOB, depending on how things go. Here's the twist, I'm running an olds motor. All the info I find for these swaps is with a sbc. SO, on that, here's where the questions begin. I know I need to drill out the crank and get one of those adapter input shaft bearings. I know a t5 will bolt to any 4 speed bop bellhousing, but will the stock slave still work? What about a t56? What do I need to do to mate a t56 to a bop bellhousing or run an adapter plate to mount the stock chevy bellhousing to an olds motor? Then I need a spacer for the flywheel? What does that do to my starter engagement?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Martin.

 

[pontiacgp]

for the T56 you can use a muncie bell housing and you need an adapter to mount the T56

http://americanpowertrain.com/c-314606- ... using.html

 

[marcar1993]

Ok, so now what else do I need to make that function? No flywheel spacers? No lengthened input shafts? What about hydraulics? Can I still use the stock slave or do I need to run a HTOB?

 

[pontiacgp]

I have not done that installation but I imagine all the parts you need would come with the adapter for the price they are selling it for....as for the throw out bearing I have no idea but the T56 uses a pull slave. I'm sure the company that sells the adapter would have that info

 

[SickSpeedMonte]

Are you using an LT1 or LS1 T56? The LT1 uses an external slave with a clutch fork which mounts in the bellhousing. The LS1 uses the HTOB.

 

[marcar1993]

I'm honestly not sure yet, it depends what trans I find, but from what I understand an lt1 trans would be easier, so thats what I'm shooting for. In the event that I run an lt1 trans will an ls1 tob just slide in place?

 

[FE3X CLONE]

If you're buying an aftermarket htob then you can use either t56 (ls1 or lt1). Keep in mind though the lt1 has a shorter input shaft than the ls1. That might actually help you out if your just doing one of those conversion input shaft bushings in the crank.
For a bell housing you can look into McLeod. I have one of their modular bell housings and everything bolted up really nice to the 455. However they are not cheap.
If you go with a htob you can use the clutch master cylinder and push rod from an LS1. Earls then makes a fitting that let's you get rid of the stock braided line and install an aftermarket braided line with AN fittings.

 

[marcar1993]

Thanks, I was leaning towards the lt1 t56 for that reason. I thought that the ls1 t56 needed some mods to work because of the input shaft length? Which one are you running in your car?

 

[FE3X CLONE]

Thanks, I was leaning towards the lt1 t56 for that reason. I thought that the ls1 t56 needed some mods to work because of the input shaft length? Which one are you running in your car?

I LT1 version but if I were to do it over again I would go with the LS1 for the longer input.

If you actually drill the crankshaft out to use a real bushing then you can run the LS1 trans without any problem. I had my crank drilled to the factory specs for a manual trans car but since I have the LT1 trans I had to use an adapter bushing (included with the Mcleod bellhousing I bought) to support the LT1 input shaft.

The LS1 input is actually closer (if not the same length) to the old Muncie/T-10/etc. manuals.

If your rebuilding the trans I believe you can convert the LT1 over to the LS1 input shaft but I haven't looked into it. The nice thing about the Mcleod housing is that you can use either transmission with it. The bushings for the LT1 is the only difference.

 

[marcar1993]

So, would the lt1 trans fit without drilling the crank then? And whats wrong with using the adapter bearing? Is there a downside to it?