Max HP stock 200-R4 and 10bolt rear end can handle...

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dogshit said:
From what I have read ideal operating temp for trans fluid is about 170 degrees. ie after its been through the cooler or radiator. An extended time with temps in excess of 210 will dramatically shorten your fluids life and if not changed your transmissions life. BTW trans temp guages are cheap and easy to install.
I'm glad you chimmed in... I wanted to discuss trans temperature.
I have a trans gauge, and as mentioned mine now rarely runs above 150 deg F, even after a good thrashing at the track, with slicks. On a hot day, sitting thru rush hour, it might climb to 155 deg F.

is there such a thing as "running TOO cool" ? Would it be smart to cycle it thru in series with the hotter rad to bring the temp up to a 170ish deg norm?

before the cooler, my transmission would opperate just as it does now... holding a steady 140-150 deg F... any rise in temp would just be a sudden spike up to 200 plus. Where-as now, it maintains the regular 140-150.
 
I would like to know that also
 
it likely looks like this...
Toyota_Condenser.jpg


condensors work well too, if you can find one without any fins dingged up or burst lines. They sell coolers with fans also... but it's likely overkill for the street.

it really comes down to what's nearest /cheapest for you... For as something as cheap as a oil cooler, I wouldn't bother with the junkyard... you never know if it's damaged or not until you've used it.
 
is there such a thing as "running TOO cool" ? Would it be smart to cycle it thru in series with the hotter rad to bring the temp up to a 170ish deg norm?
yes it can be too cool. but it's rare the oil itself is fine, but some of the additives don't activate until they reach temp. this is not a major issue in transmissions as there are so many additives and they very rarely get gunked up. IIRC most of them activate at 100-120 so you're safe
tangent: motor oil on the other hand MUST make it to temp. for one it burns out the water condensation, and the additives require a higher temp to activate.
 
I doubt you'd ever run into problems with trans fluid too cool. My 2008 GMC Sierra has the towing package with trans cooler installed.
In the summer it will typically run around 150-170*F however last night on my way home from work, the outside temp was 1*F and the trans temp never made it above 95*F.
If GM feels this is fine and offers a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain with temps this cold then you shouldn't have a problem.

And I can tell you, a stock TH-2004R with rebuild a shift kit and oil cooler will NOT be enough to handle the bigger engine. I had the same in my '87 Olds and the 455 had my trans slipping within 3 days. I was taking it easy on the engine as well since it was fresh build. Never took it past 1/4 throttle.
 
megaladon6 said:
is there such a thing as "running TOO cool" ? Would it be smart to cycle it thru in series with the hotter rad to bring the temp up to a 170ish deg norm?
yes it can be too cool. but it's rare the oil itself is fine, but some of the additives don't activate until they reach temp. this is not a major issue in transmissions as there are so many additives and they very rarely get gunked up. IIRC most of them activate at 100-120 so you're safe
tangent: motor oil on the other hand MUST make it to temp. for one it burns out the water condensation, and the additives require a higher temp to activate.
FE3X CLONE said:
I doubt you'd ever run into problems with trans fluid too cool. My 2008 GMC Sierra has the towing package with trans cooler installed.
In the summer it will typically run around 150-170*F however last night on my way home from work, the outside temp was 1*F and the trans temp never made it above 95*F.
If GM feels this is fine and offers a 5 year/100,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain with temps this cold then you shouldn't have a problem.
thanks for clearing that up... more than likely, I'll keep my trans cooler routed seperate from the rad... the setup looks cleaner.
 
As far as how much power a stock 200-4R can handle...

The stock H.O. 307 in my 442 killed two of them before it kicked out a rod. :lol:
And the OZ code 200-4Rs in the 442s are supposed to be tougher...
 
Was the TV cable properly adjusted
 
yeah my best advice listen to khan especially the bit about the rear hooking... thatll be the first thing to implode and its rather embarrassing, id probably kill myself haha, you rear just locks up and your stuck at a stop and everyones staring at you like an idiot... thats why i avoid rough launches as much as possible but sometimes its a little hard when theres people in front of you... thats why the driveshaft on my lincoln has more play than it should... i beat on it a bit much but when youv got debadged jag your allowed to do that haha.. and the trans fluid works just like regular engine oil... having the oil at the proper temperature puts it at the proper viscosity to lubricate the internals properly.... PROPER being the key word meaning no immediate damage but the life of all the internals be it the trans or what have you will last longer... good luck and kick *ss with that 400 horse
 
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