I was going to use some Comp roller tip rockers with short poly locks, but the comp rockers had a maximum spring diameter of 1.500" in. My springs have a diameter of 1.550".
BUILD THREAD Midlife Crisis Monte Carlo Build
- Thread starter tokarz1
- Start date
The TH400 came with the countebored "bolt on" yoke and I needed a slip yoke. After a bunch of research I settled on a Neapco N3-3-2431X TH400 Slip Yoke. It is a 32 spline, takes 1350 u-joints, and has the 0.530 counterbore to slide over the o-ring grove in the output shaft.
While I was on the driveline subject I picked up a Neapco N3-2-1579 flange yoke for the 8.8 rear end. The flange yoke that came with the rear end uses a 1330 u-joint and the Neapco uses a 1350.
The mounting bolts for the rear end flange have seen better days so I grabbed a new set of those as well.
Of course, I had to paint them up before installing them.
While I was on the driveline subject I picked up a Neapco N3-2-1579 flange yoke for the 8.8 rear end. The flange yoke that came with the rear end uses a 1330 u-joint and the Neapco uses a 1350.
The mounting bolts for the rear end flange have seen better days so I grabbed a new set of those as well.
Of course, I had to paint them up before installing them.
Shouldn't the trans yoke extend further up the output shaft when converting to a slip yoke? I need to do the same to mine.
This is copied from Denny's Driveshaft..
Neapco N3-3-2431X
1350 Series 32 spline T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 Transmission Slip yoke
Replaces the truck style bolt on yoke with a normal car style slip yoke which will allow for proper slip travel and bushing contact for best performance. A must have when using any T-400, 4L80, 4L85, 6L80 truck transmission with the threaded hole in the output shaft.
With this counterbored slip yoke you can now use a normal car style driveshaft.
- Length to center of u-joint... Dimension #1 = 5.50 inches
- Barrel Diameter... Dimension #2 = 1.886 inches
- Barrel Length... Dimension #3 = 3 1/4 inches
- U-joint cap diameter... Dimension #4 = 1.188 inches
- U-joint width... Dimension #5 = 3.625 inches
- Series... 1350
- Spline count... 32
- Counterbore...1.480 inches
- Counterbore Depth ....0.500 inches
Since I boxed in the frame, buying off the shelf brake lines wouldn't work. I want something that I hopefully will not have to do again so I opted for copper/nickel brake lines. I picked up a roll of 3/16 for the front and 1/4" for the back along with a proportioning valve for 4-wheel disc brakes.
Using the old lines as a sort of template I started bending them up. This took quite a while as I was trying to get them perfect. So much measuring and so many bends.
Pretty sure I wasted more than I used.
The front came out great, but I was not happy with the rear where it goes into the valve.
I bought another roll and now I am happy with it.
Using the old lines as a sort of template I started bending them up. This took quite a while as I was trying to get them perfect. So much measuring and so many bends.
Pretty sure I wasted more than I used.
The front came out great, but I was not happy with the rear where it goes into the valve.
I bought another roll and now I am happy with it.
Not to much done but did get a few things knocked out.
After the engine reassembly I wanted to be sure I got some oil up to the top of the engine. I did however cover everything in assembly lube when it was apart. First, I had to buy a new dipstick and tube as the one from the motorhome was routed differently.
I modified and used the old distributor that came with the engine as a priming tool.
I picked up the steering components a while ago and decided to get those installed. Of course, I had them painted up first with the VHT Chassis paint.
I did not trust the old water pump even though it didn't have many miles on it so bolted on a new Gates one.
Oh, and I bolted the drive selector pivot bracket up.
After the engine reassembly I wanted to be sure I got some oil up to the top of the engine. I did however cover everything in assembly lube when it was apart. First, I had to buy a new dipstick and tube as the one from the motorhome was routed differently.
I modified and used the old distributor that came with the engine as a priming tool.
I picked up the steering components a while ago and decided to get those installed. Of course, I had them painted up first with the VHT Chassis paint.
I did not trust the old water pump even though it didn't have many miles on it so bolted on a new Gates one.
Oh, and I bolted the drive selector pivot bracket up.
