Mounting hydraulic slave cylinder

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,398
113
Kitchener, Ontario
This looks like the kit from sicspeedmonte. If so, this kit doesn't use the cruise wiring, or mechanical linkage hole. A new hole needs to be drilled, see web site for further details. I have this kit and its well engineered.

I have not used that kit but reading the instructions they do reference the hole for the cruise control wiring. It appears the hole has altered to work with the pedal that comes with the kit. I used the F body pedal, modified the length of the pedal and position of the pin to make it work. I used the hole for the cruise wiring and the rod from the master lines up perfect on the pin on the pedal shaft. My doubler looks very similar the double in the kit except I did not elongate the hole. The only reason I posted that picture was to give the op an idea what the double looks like.
 

oldsmobile joe

Royal Smart Person
Nov 12, 2015
1,585
113
mpls
Hey vwbjohn, what kit or master are you using?

Expanding on the sicspeedmonte kit. If your vehicle does not have a factory cruise wiring or mechanical linkage hole, you have the option to drill your hole higher than the factory would have, giving you a cleaner install.
 
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pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,398
113
Kitchener, Ontario
Hey vwbjohn, what kit or master are you using?

Expanding on the sicspeedmonte kit. If your vehicle does not have a factory cruise wiring or mechanical linkage hole, you have the option to drill your hole higher than the factory would have, giving you a cleaner install.

The way I did mine using the cruise hole was to install the master and mocked up where the pin needs to be on the pedal arm so the pedal was at the right position, rod to be straight and the pin was at the full extension of the rod. If I raised the postion of the hole for the master I would have had to put the pin on the pedal arm higher have had to make the pedal to move further due to the shorter arc. When I used the F body master and slave with the push fork the clutch pedal had to go to the floor for the clutch to disengage. With the Howe throw out bearing I used an appliance foot to use as a stop since the travel of the rod for the master was a max 3/4". With the Mcleod bearing I'm using now it has a min travel of 1" so the I adjusted the stop so the travel is now slightly more than an 1". For my set up I used the F body clutch pedal adding 3/4" length to it, the G body brake pedal housing with the F body hanger bolt and the F body nylon pedal arm bushings.

When I initially installed my set up I could get one of the rods that the F body used to prevent the master from breaking the firewall so the master ended up flexing one side of the firewall causing it to crack after a few years. I looked at buying a double like the sicspeedmonte but the price of the doublers killed that idea so I made mine out of 1/8' plate steel.
 

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