My 86 442: update 11/11/14 Auto Gear M22Z
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Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
Hey you have the same scoop I do. I made mine functional. Check it out in my pics.
Hey you have the same scoop I do. I made mine functional. Check it out in my pics.
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
I will have to check it out. That was on the car when I bought it. I believe it is a hurst olds scoop, or replica that someone shaved the molding off that goes down te center ( I found body filler in the center area when i was sanding everything down). Anyways any comments on how she looks so far?
I will have to check it out. That was on the car when I bought it. I believe it is a hurst olds scoop, or replica that someone shaved the molding off that goes down te center ( I found body filler in the center area when i was sanding everything down). Anyways any comments on how she looks so far?
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
Yea whats done looks great. I like the blacked front end it says performance and actually kind of compliments its heritage. If you plan on making some power and hooking it up you will need to get a criss cross brace for across the back of the trunk as T-tops make em flimsy. It will save the A pillars from cracking at the top front of the windows. Its an especially good idea if you plan to ever run slicks or drag radials with a big block. I would find some factory chrome 442 wheels they only came on the 442 and looked great. I had the rims replaced to 15x8 on two of mine so I could run some meats under her. Some 17" Torque thrusts with the grey centers might look bad arse also. Either way gives you the option of some drag radials. They changed the format on this forum and a lot of people don't know you can just click the little camera button to go right to someones pics.
Yea whats done looks great. I like the blacked front end it says performance and actually kind of compliments its heritage. If you plan on making some power and hooking it up you will need to get a criss cross brace for across the back of the trunk as T-tops make em flimsy. It will save the A pillars from cracking at the top front of the windows. Its an especially good idea if you plan to ever run slicks or drag radials with a big block. I would find some factory chrome 442 wheels they only came on the 442 and looked great. I had the rims replaced to 15x8 on two of mine so I could run some meats under her. Some 17" Torque thrusts with the grey centers might look bad arse also. Either way gives you the option of some drag radials. They changed the format on this forum and a lot of people don't know you can just click the little camera button to go right to someones pics.
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
Looking good. Nice job .
It easier to build just like you want when wiring and stuff is hacked up. I know I got one I bought new.
Yours would have been easy fix . But wheres the fun in that .
Looking good. Nice job .
It easier to build just like you want when wiring and stuff is hacked up. I know I got one I bought new.
Yours would have been easy fix . But wheres the fun in that .
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
Thanks for the comments guys. I do plan on swapping the motor after the body is finished so I have a little more power and Ill have to look into some bracing for the rear seat area. Thats probably a good idea considering my salon parts car has cracks in the body above the quarter windows and thats a hard top car. Yes I do also plan on swapping the wheels to the ones that were on the salon. I know they are only 14 inch, but they are black and chrome and I think that they will look good for now considering they are free and I'm doing all of this on a 19 year old kids budget. I only paid $400 to do all the body work, prime it, prep it, and base/clear the entire car. I guess that isn't too bad when your only 19 years old haha. Ive been in the body business for almost 4 years now, and I guess this car is a reflection of how my skills have progressed so its not toally perfect. I started on it when I was 15 and as I learned more I did more work.
Thanks for the comments guys. I do plan on swapping the motor after the body is finished so I have a little more power and Ill have to look into some bracing for the rear seat area. Thats probably a good idea considering my salon parts car has cracks in the body above the quarter windows and thats a hard top car. Yes I do also plan on swapping the wheels to the ones that were on the salon. I know they are only 14 inch, but they are black and chrome and I think that they will look good for now considering they are free and I'm doing all of this on a 19 year old kids budget. I only paid $400 to do all the body work, prime it, prep it, and base/clear the entire car. I guess that isn't too bad when your only 19 years old haha. Ive been in the body business for almost 4 years now, and I guess this car is a reflection of how my skills have progressed so its not toally perfect. I started on it when I was 15 and as I learned more I did more work.
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
You are an inspiration. 14s suck but if its a color matched Olds ralley or them chrome with black centered ralleys I can see making do with them for a while and looking right. If you need to buy tires you can run a 205/70/14 (25.4 tall) up front with a 245/60/14 (25.6") in the rear. Firestone Firehawk Indys have them. Or if those aluminum wheels you have are 15s you can make do with them for a while. I have certainly seen people do worse. Its not like they are wire wheels or something. It still fits the muscle car theme.
You are an inspiration. 14s suck but if its a color matched Olds ralley or them chrome with black centered ralleys I can see making do with them for a while and looking right. If you need to buy tires you can run a 205/70/14 (25.4 tall) up front with a 245/60/14 (25.6") in the rear. Firestone Firehawk Indys have them. Or if those aluminum wheels you have are 15s you can make do with them for a while. I have certainly seen people do worse. Its not like they are wire wheels or something. It still fits the muscle car theme.
Re: My 86 442: update 5-5-10
Well I have close ties with the tire place down the road from my shop so I had them swap the tires that were on the aluminum wheels to the stock 14 inch rallys ( both are a 14 inch wheel). The size is 225/70/14 all the way around. I figured that the tires are almost brand new and they still have to little rubber knubs on them so why not just run those tires for now since they are free and have tons of life left on them.
Now a question I have since I will still be running the 307 for now and actually for any motorI may put in the car is what type of oil and filter would be best? I know it states 10w-30 ion the cap but im talking what brand name? Also what kind of plugs and wires seem to work best? I am pretty new to the whole mechanical aspect of things since I am pretty much just a body and paint guy, any insight is appreciated.
Oh and one more thing, can anyone help me out with getting my factory fuel gauge on the dash to work? I replaced the sending unit and tank on the car, and I know all of the wiring in the rear is hooked up correctly. The gauge has not worked at all since I got the car, does it have something to do with the computer being removed or is it a stand alone system?
Well I have close ties with the tire place down the road from my shop so I had them swap the tires that were on the aluminum wheels to the stock 14 inch rallys ( both are a 14 inch wheel). The size is 225/70/14 all the way around. I figured that the tires are almost brand new and they still have to little rubber knubs on them so why not just run those tires for now since they are free and have tons of life left on them.
Now a question I have since I will still be running the 307 for now and actually for any motorI may put in the car is what type of oil and filter would be best? I know it states 10w-30 ion the cap but im talking what brand name? Also what kind of plugs and wires seem to work best? I am pretty new to the whole mechanical aspect of things since I am pretty much just a body and paint guy, any insight is appreciated.
Oh and one more thing, can anyone help me out with getting my factory fuel gauge on the dash to work? I replaced the sending unit and tank on the car, and I know all of the wiring in the rear is hooked up correctly. The gauge has not worked at all since I got the car, does it have something to do with the computer being removed or is it a stand alone system?
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