my battery wont charge !!!

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Continuity pretty much will tell you if the wiring is broken or not. You take an ohm meter and you connect each lead to different parts of a wire and look for zero or very little resistance. I am pretty sure the resister is just a wire in the harness. As long as it has not been modified it should be their.
 
o.k. so you have batt voltage to both red wires . You add a grond with the two wire connector unplugged and the red alt light comes on now we know the circuit is complete for the alt thats the complete circuit for the alt excluding the ground loop with the car rnning hook a test light to the negative batt terminal and touch the body of the alt if the test light lights up then you have a bad ground for the alt just add a large gauge wire ie. 8 ga. If the test light does not light up then you have a shorted cell in you're batt these are the simplest charging systems in the world one power wire one light wire and a ground on the alt if all these things are there and it still does not charge either the alt is not spinning or it is ****ed period end of story. P.S. test with a test light not a volt metre unless you are going to test sing voltage drop to do this start you're car with you're meter on volts go from the large red terminal on the alt to the positive batt terminal. You should have below .3 of a volt. if you have greater then .3 of a volt repair red wire . You can check the ground the same way with car running go from body of alt to negative batt terminal again you should have no greater then .3 of a volt if you do then repair or add a ground to the alt.
 
is there suposed to be power coming from the brown wire to the alt or from the alt to the brown wire going to the charge light ? i connected a test light to the - on my batt and the other to the alt and no light came on ...
 
when the ignition switch is in the on position there will be twelve volts provided the the alt light the alternator grounds the alt light until it is charging . A test light will most likely not light up with the clamp on ground and the ignition in the run position. if you want to bypass the light you can do so with you're test light clamp the test light to the positive terminal and probe the brown wire @ the two pin connector the test light should light up with the ignition off if you start the car and you are charging the you know were you're problem is how ever jesterday you said that when you grounded out the brown wire with the ignition on the alt light lit up there fore you have already confirmed circuit integrity. I repeat if you have two powers A good ground and the L circuit a good alt will charge Period.....
 
Was the car running when you connected the test light to the negative on the batt and to the body of the alternator ?
 
i was just out looking .. nd te wire from the alt to the bat is getting power when its disconnected form the bat .. but its just not getting in to the bat ?
 
ok new update lol ... im getting 15 volts coming from the alt to the bat but its just not charging ? how is that possible ?
 
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