ok explain opening up the oil passages up top in more detail. and with what do i do this polishing?
my new engine (from the ground up)
- Thread starter G_Body_Enthusiast
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Well to do the outside of the block a grinder will do as you are just cleaning up the casting flash and rounding off any shapr corners. As for the oil passages, basically you want to open up the holes in a smooth transitiion so oil flows freely not puddles. I sold my block that was already done but there is pic os it in the David Vizzard books others have mentioned. As for polishing and opening up the oil passages you would need a die grinder. the idea isnt to remove a whole lot of material just to smooth it out. Does anyone have pics of an oil passage on a SBC thats been massaged :?:
ok well while waiting for an answer/pics of the oil passages i cleaned the rear main cap in gas (i have no chem dip right now) and the bearing says.....STD. yay it hasnt been turned so most likely i can reuse the crank.
i'm slowly cleaning the block, wire brushing it, wiping it down with gas (trying t0o get the paint off the block) and it's looking better. i could crack loose the three plugs near the cam at the back of the block. any tips for getting them out?
i'm slowly cleaning the block, wire brushing it, wiping it down with gas (trying t0o get the paint off the block) and it's looking better. i could crack loose the three plugs near the cam at the back of the block. any tips for getting them out?
If you can crack them loose, take them out. What kind of plugs are they?
Did you look into the cost of having the block jet washed or hot tanked? Would save you alot of work with rags and gas. I'd get those cam bearing out of there as well if you havent already done so
Did you look into the cost of having the block jet washed or hot tanked? Would save you alot of work with rags and gas. I'd get those cam bearing out of there as well if you havent already done so
I hope your little avatar friend doesn't show up while you are playing with rags and gas.G_Body_Enthusiast said:
:shock:
i dont have the money to get it hot tanked yet so i'm just doing a little cleaning here and there until it does get hot tanked and it will be hot tanked.
i couldnt get the plugs loose. they're screw in square drive plugs and are STUCK. ill have whoever cleans the block take em out.
in fact it's best just to save up enough to have it cleaned and rebuilt all at the same time. im not in the mood to transport a block back and forth. one trip there, one trip back, with the block anyway...
i couldnt get the plugs loose. they're screw in square drive plugs and are STUCK. ill have whoever cleans the block take em out.
in fact it's best just to save up enough to have it cleaned and rebuilt all at the same time. im not in the mood to transport a block back and forth. one trip there, one trip back, with the block anyway...
It's good to see that you're paying attention to detail on the engine build. Have the shop that's going to hot tank the block remove the freeze plugs and possibly install the new ones. Have the cam bearings replaced. The lifter galley can be cleaned up and painted with Glyptol paint. It will help the oil drain back faster. Just keep the paint out of the lifter bores, etc.
As for a stock air cleaner, look for a dual snorkle unit from a Monte SS, Camaro/ Firebird pre-fuel injection, or an earlier GM car. This is if you're going with a Q-Jet carb.
As for keeping your oil from sloshing too much on those fast turns, you go use a Z-28 windage tray. If you don't autocross or race the car, I wouldn't worry about using a fancy oil pan. And again, that's just my opinion.
9.1 compression should be ideal for a mild street engine. Especially with the shitty gas that's available in these times.
As for a rebuild kit. Make sure the kit uses good premium parts. Gaskets, bearings, rings, etc. Even with a stock rebuild. And again, do your homework. Felpro, Clevite 77 are good choices. Tru- power rings.
Maybe consider a Melling or TRW hi-volume oil pump. If you think the rods look crappy, then by all means go with a set of new rods. If it provides peace of mind, go with it.
Also having the oil holes in the crank chamfered is not a bad idea. A heat riser for headers might not available. That's something you might have to leave off, or construct yourself.
All in all, I think you're on the right path. Thinking this build out thoroughly...new fasteners and such. Sounds like you're starting with a good block. Concentrate on the getting the shortblock built. You can later decide on what heads to use.
Alot depends on your budget. Perhaps a set of Vortecs and Vortec compatible dual plane manifold.
Whatever cam you decide on, you might consider a cam kit with valve springs, lifters, etc.
As for a stock air cleaner, look for a dual snorkle unit from a Monte SS, Camaro/ Firebird pre-fuel injection, or an earlier GM car. This is if you're going with a Q-Jet carb.
As for keeping your oil from sloshing too much on those fast turns, you go use a Z-28 windage tray. If you don't autocross or race the car, I wouldn't worry about using a fancy oil pan. And again, that's just my opinion.
9.1 compression should be ideal for a mild street engine. Especially with the shitty gas that's available in these times.
As for a rebuild kit. Make sure the kit uses good premium parts. Gaskets, bearings, rings, etc. Even with a stock rebuild. And again, do your homework. Felpro, Clevite 77 are good choices. Tru- power rings.
Maybe consider a Melling or TRW hi-volume oil pump. If you think the rods look crappy, then by all means go with a set of new rods. If it provides peace of mind, go with it.
Also having the oil holes in the crank chamfered is not a bad idea. A heat riser for headers might not available. That's something you might have to leave off, or construct yourself.
All in all, I think you're on the right path. Thinking this build out thoroughly...new fasteners and such. Sounds like you're starting with a good block. Concentrate on the getting the shortblock built. You can later decide on what heads to use.
Alot depends on your budget. Perhaps a set of Vortecs and Vortec compatible dual plane manifold.
Whatever cam you decide on, you might consider a cam kit with valve springs, lifters, etc.
i wouldn't count on the bearings staying STD. you definitely want to plastigage the bearings if doing the rotating assembly yourself. if the machinist is building it, ask before hand how he checks the clearances. oh, and slightly loose bearings are actually better than slightly tight--don't go outside of tolerance! but if the tol is .0015-.0035 (these may not be the right numbers-i'm guessing) aim for .0025-.0030. but make sure to use a good oil, no matter what.
if you can, spend the money for a roller cam, it allows you to use off the shelf synthetic, lower friction, and will last longer. and if you decide to go to a larger cam-you don't have to get new lifters.
if you can, spend the money for a roller cam, it allows you to use off the shelf synthetic, lower friction, and will last longer. and if you decide to go to a larger cam-you don't have to get new lifters.
i found a hot air pick up kit from dougthorleyheaders.com and at hedman.com. so i have at least two to choose from. i knew they had them, i just hadnt seem them being offered for a while now.
i hadnt planned on the bearings staying std, it's just nice to see they are now, it's just proving that this shortblock still has a lot of life left in it. i feel like i really got my 50 dollars worth and then some, higher nickel and tin content block (even if it is a 2 bolt main) and a decent reusable crank. i was kinda expecting everything to be junk, it was 50 bucks and i thought maybe the guy felt he had a goose egg and wanted to ditch it onto someone else. i was willing to take a chance and so far that chance has paid off.
for this being the first V8 i've ever bought it's turning out well so far. fingers crossed that things stay this way!
and if nothing else i'm learning about engines from this one so at the least it's a learning tool and that's priceless to me.
i hadnt planned on the bearings staying std, it's just nice to see they are now, it's just proving that this shortblock still has a lot of life left in it. i feel like i really got my 50 dollars worth and then some, higher nickel and tin content block (even if it is a 2 bolt main) and a decent reusable crank. i was kinda expecting everything to be junk, it was 50 bucks and i thought maybe the guy felt he had a goose egg and wanted to ditch it onto someone else. i was willing to take a chance and so far that chance has paid off.
for this being the first V8 i've ever bought it's turning out well so far. fingers crossed that things stay this way!
and if nothing else i'm learning about engines from this one so at the least it's a learning tool and that's priceless to me.
Oh, you meant the hot air stove that gets ducted to the air cleaner. Yup, they are out there, it's just a hunk of aluminum that gets clamped to a header tube. I thought you meant a heat riser (EFE) valve that shuts one side exhaust manifold and forces the hot gasses through the intake to help vaporise the fuel until it reaches operating temp. I actually fabbed one up for a car that was used in cold NY wintertime. I arc welded an EFE valve into a short section of exhaust pipe and welded that in right after the collector. Worked pretty good.
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