Mythbusters, G-body style. Door Weatherstrips Fit Any 2-door G-body. Busted!!!!

You don't have a G-body. So don't worry about it. 😊 Calm down. You're good.

Yes, it fits either one of your Oldses. And also Buick A-body 78-80 cars as well, both buttless and notchback. In this instance I'm not sure we can simply group the A and G's into the generalized "G-body" all-encompassing definition. There's seems to be a definite break at the end of the Olds/Buick A-body for 1981, and 82 for others. And then it carried over from 81 to the G-body Olds/Buick G-bodies from 82-end.

And 78-81 Grand Am/Lemans as well. These fit most A-body 78-80 cars and a couple 81s. From what I gather, though, they only reach into the 82-88 G-body Again, I think the Monte Carlo and GP did not share these weatherstrips. Maybe. Because all the weatherstrips could interchange, right?

What I meant about the "only G-body" they fit was the technical G-body from 82-87 in the El Camino's case. Those part numbers are not listed as fitting anything else past 1981. That's what this comparison will figure out, at least on the "fits all" standpoint. It has to be the same as an 81-88 Buick/Olds 2 door or it fails and considered busted. If it does fit the other cars, then it's a win win.

I did a little digging around on the El Camino forums and from several posts I've read that 78-81 Malibu and 78-85 Elky doors are THE SAME and will interchange. They will also interchange to 86/87 Elky, but the mirror holes were stamped in a slightly different location in 86 and 87 for the El Camino, but that was stated as the only difference. The doors would physically fit on the car. Just would have to use the El Camino side windows. Is this true? If that's the case, then the weatherstripping would also be the same.
not exactly stamped in a different location. they were actually different mirrors that were used on the Fiero and Corvettes, so obviously they had to have a different mount location. the biggest problem with that is getting the stand-offs and the rubber gaskets to mount on the door.
the only other thing I can think of would be if the horizontal door trim was different and mounted in a different place, which I don't think it does .
 
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Ok, here we go. Got the pics and the MAIN difference is the ends outside the main strip. I didn't use a tape measure because the comparison is between the two.

Generally speaking, both strips are CLOSE. But not close enough on the ends. The ends are vulcanized to the main strips with the plastic push pins. The ONLY real difference I can find is that the last 2 pins on either end of the 81-88 version are smaller diameter than the 78-80 for some reason. Not a huge deal, but it is a factor of difference. That alone would explain instantly why another part number was issued. Both sets come with the plastic inserts infused in the end "plates" for the mounting pins. Speaking of mounting push pins, you need 8 of GM p/n 8731909 or aftermarket equivalent to put these on your car, whichever version you use. This is incorrect. The door weatherstrips use screws. Keep reading. The pins are for the upper side window weatherstrips.

1701122999433.png


But it doesn't stop there. The 81-88 is APPROXIMATELY 1/2" longer than the 78-80 counterpart. Why? I don't know. Again, that's just a guesstimate. A plus or minus, uncalibrated eyeball measurement.

The ends are where the real differences are. The mounting pin locations are the same on both sets, but because of the 1/2" or so difference in length overall, and it's in the front. You'd have to push the 81-88 version together some on the front (A-pillar end) to make it clip onto the 78-80 door factory holes. Conversely, you'd have to stretch the 78-80 A-pillar end about 1/2" to align it to the right spot if you put it on an 81-88 door.

The front (A-pillar end) is slightly different in shape and thickness in some places. How it arranges itself into the door and window area seat appears that there would likely be permanent wind noise at best, and gaping water intrusion at worst.

The rear (B-pillar end) piece has even more obvious differences. I'll let the pics show you. It's really unfortunate because the side window strips where they meet are the same for all of them. They DID change part numbers on the side sealing strips later on but the reason was a redesigned part for better window sealing/wind noise control over the original part numbers. Had nothing to do with the fit and shape where it mounts and seals against the door weatherstrip. 84 W40 can back me up on that.

Additionally, it is recommended that a VERY THIN bead of black 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the mounting pin surface area on the bottom. Don't need much thickness. Just remember to go around the outside of the pins with it. I say black because that yellow stuff looks like azz if you squish any out. It does not have to go all the way up to the ends. IIRC, the 84 H/O only had the adhesive going up about 1/3 of the sides of the door. There obviously is a reason for this. I imagine this was done for water spray intrusion from the bottom area of the door seals where the body break line curves under, allowing front wheel splash to blast into the door gaps. But I'm not sure exactly why. My memory is a bit vague on this and I'm not sure what I did with my Fisher Body books. It may have something in there for that. But, whatever.

1701123891636.png


20008189 VS. 20201221

In this corner, the OG, weighing in at around 1 lb, the ubiquitous, the world-famous 78-80 (and some 81s) LH DOOR WEATHERSTRIP!
78-80 Abody Olds Door WS PN 200081889.jpg


And the challenger, weighing in at approximately the same 1 lb, the younger, and slightly longer up and comer, the 81-88 Cutlass/Regal LH DOOR WEATHERSTRIP!
81-88 Gbody Olds Door Weatherstrip PN 20201221.jpg



In the pic below, you can see how the ends are SORTA shaped the same, but there's a wider transition channel in the center where it meets up with the upper side window seal section, as well as a more defined Stone Henge looking brick "hump" where it meets up with the inner door panel and it's slightly wider overall. The 78-80, which is pictured on the right, is smaller and more rounded. It's just...different. Mounting pin locations seem to be in the same general location.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 1.jpg


78-80 on the right.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 4.jpg



More slight differences on the door side that you don't see when mounted on the door. Again, 78-80 on the right.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 3.jpg



Another close-up of the back side of the B-pillar end. Note how "tall" the 81-88 end is in comparison to the 78-80 version.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 9.jpg



Pick and end. Either end. 78-80 on the right. The two end pins on either end are smaller diameter than the 78-80 version. Why? I have no idea.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 2.jpg



Below you can see the 81-88 version SLIGHTLY longer on the A-pillar end. Not by much, but it's still longer. 78-80 version on the right.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 5.jpg




This is the money shot, per se. The A-pillar end shapes where they meet the door are very different between the 78-80 version on top, and the 81-88 version on the bottom.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 6.jpg



End view of the A-pillar end. You can see there's quite a bit of difference in the nooks and crannies. 78-80 version on top.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 7.jpg



This time, the 78-80 version is on the left. But you can see where the top mounting pin area is flat where on the 81-88 version it has a tweak in it and it isnt' flat against the door. Keep in mind, to put these even with each other, the alignment pins had to shift down slightly but you can't see it in this picture.
Olds A-G Door WS Comparison 8.jpg


God forbid if you tried putting these on a Monte Carlo or GP. If I had a sent of those, I'd compare them too, but I don't. So this is as good as it's going to get.

The myth is busted. But not by much. At least between these two versions. But, it's A/G door weatherstrips are NOT interchangeable everywhere. You have to make sure you know what these fit. Good thing is that the 78-80 version fits ALL A/G El Camino/Caballero doors 78-87. That's only one part number set you have to remember for those. But that's it. If the number is different, so is the part.

Now, if you have good "ends" but a chunk missing in your A/G door weatherstrip between the ends, I'm willing to bet you could cut out the needed chunk from any good A/G body set and be able to fix them, keeping in mind that some may have smaller pins near the ends. The repair probably wouldn't be concours or show quality, but with some black 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and a good steady hand, you may can at least repair your chunked ones at least to function and STILL have that GM softness and sealing capability that GM was famous (or infamous) for. 🙂
 
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Breaking off a large chunk of knowledge as usual! Thank you!

Since I'll have to replace all the seals when the time comes, how well do the originals (that they quit making with Men's and Women's bathroom signs 😏) hold up over time? Were these still as flexible as when they were made?

I hear Steele makes a good product, but nothing beats the originals.

Hutch
 
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Yeah, the NOS ones are still pretty soft. I'm not in tune with aftermarket seals, so I can't speak for them. The original seals on the 85 and 87 are still fairly soft and intact, although they're pushing 40 years old. Weather and sun does them in.
 
Since we're talking about weatherstrips...for 81-88 2 door Cutlass/Hurst/442 and Buick Regal types too.

Side window for HT and T-top weatherstrips are pretty much all the same. Now there was a slight difference in the 78 t-tops as they had a version 1 and version 2 of the t-tops. But the seals were still the same for factory tops. If you had aftermarket stuff, like Hurst Hatches, or any other stuff, not sure what fits.

81-88 Cutlass/442 GM part number listing:

Trunk seal- this comes in (maybe, I've seen a few them arrive unglued as well) one piece already glued together and has the paint dot that goes in center front to help with alignment, as well as the "cut your own" one long length of strip that you have to cut the female side of it at the back to the proper length, then glue the male tab into the female slot yourself. The one piece is ok, you just have to loop it over the trunk lid if you don't want to remove it. It will go. I used it on my 84 H/O (before reinstalling the spoiler, obviously).

1-piece (pre-glued) - 20641957 superseded to 25558394. 1987-88 2 door Cutlass parts call out for 20680006. Although all trunk seals for 81-88 Cutlass will fit.
cut your own - 20490800

Interesting that the 20490800 was listed to fit the 70s Nova hatchbacks, etc., yet also listed to fit G-bodies as well. Weird things GM did.

Doors -
RH- 20201220
LH- 20201221

Belt reveal seal (along top of door) -
Thin bead outer
RH- 20674248
LH- 20674249

Wide molding belt reveal- comes with weatherstripping attached. (Not used on 442 in 1987)
RH- 20674292
LH- 20674293

Seal only- to fit wide anodized (chrome) molding:
RH- 20674276
LH- 20674277

Inner door belt seal, (on top of upper inner door panel) same for all G47 Cutlass
RH- 20363106
LH- 20363107

NON-T-top side window seals-

RH- 20154106 superseded to 20737658 (better design)
LH- 20154105 superseded to 20737659 (better design)

T-top -
RH- 20211820
LH- 20211821

T-top glass side seal -
RH- 20087982 superseded to 20217186
LH- 20087983 superseded to 20217187

Secondary T-top seals (stick on strips- aka "rattle strips". Usually come unglued and get missing)

Need 2- same part number- 20139617
 
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Since we're talking about weatherstrips...for 81-88 2 door Cutlass/Hurst/442 and Buick Regal types too.
I'll add one thing since you did't include the disclaimer like all the places selling parts for these cars, "Don't fit Cutlass Supreme".

Just had to. Now back to the real usable info & don't pay any attention the the Chevy guy.
 
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Yeah, the NOS ones are still pretty soft. I'm not in tune with aftermarket seals, so I can't speak for them. The original seals on the 85 and 87 are still fairly soft and intact, although they're pushing 40 years old. Weather and sun does them in.

All the aftermarket lower door seals I have tried lack the plastic reinforcing plate molded inside the end pads. Because of this the end pads on aftermarket lower door seals tend to rip, especially around the mounting screw holes.
 
Ok, here we go. Got the pics and the MAIN difference is the ends outside the main strip. I didn't use a tape measure because the comparison is between the two.

Generally speaking, both strips are CLOSE. But not close enough on the ends. The ends are vulcanized to the main strips with the plastic push pins. The ONLY real difference I can find is that the last 2 pins on either end of the 81-88 version are smaller diameter than the 78-80 for some reason. Not a huge deal, but it is a factor of difference. That alone would explain instantly why another part number was issued. Both sets come with the plastic inserts infused in the end "plates" for the mounting pins. Speaking of mounting push pins, you need 8 of GM p/n 8731909 or aftermarket equivalent to put these on your car, whichever version you use.

View attachment 231582

But it doesn't stop there. The 81-88 is APPROXIMATELY 1/2" longer than the 78-80 counterpart. Why? I don't know. Again, that's just a guesstimate. A plus or minus, uncalibrated eyeball measurement.

The ends are where the real differences are. The mounting pin locations are the same on both sets, but because of the 1/2" or so difference in length overall, and it's in the front. You'd have to push the 81-88 version together some on the front (A-pillar end) to make it clip onto the 78-80 door factory holes. Conversely, you'd have to stretch the 78-80 A-pillar end about 1/2" to align it to the right spot if you put it on an 81-88 door.

The front (A-pillar end) is slightly different in shape and thickness in some places. How it arranges itself into the door and window area seat appears that there would likely be permanent wind noise at best, and gaping water intrusion at worst.

The rear (B-pillar end) piece has even more obvious differences. I'll let the pics show you. It's really unfortunate because the side window strips where they meet are the same for all of them. They DID change part numbers on the side sealing strips later on but the reason was a redesigned part for better window sealing/wind noise control over the original part numbers. Had nothing to do with the fit and shape where it mounts and seals against the door weatherstrip. 84 W40 can back me up on that.

Additionally, it is recommended that a VERY THIN bead of black 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the mounting pin surface area on the bottom. Don't need much thickness. Just remember to go around the outside of the pins with it. I say black because that yellow stuff looks like azz if you squish any out. It does not have to go all the way up to the ends. IIRC, the 84 H/O only had the adhesive going up about 1/3 of the sides of the door. There obviously is a reason for this. I imagine this was done for water spray intrusion from the bottom area of the door seals where the body break line curves under, allowing front wheel splash to blast into the door gaps. But I'm not sure exactly why. My memory is a bit vague on this and I'm not sure what I did with my Fisher Body books. It may have something in there for that. But, whatever.

View attachment 231583

20008189 VS. 20201221

In this corner, the OG, weighing in at around 1 lb, the ubiquitous, the world-famous 78-80 (and some 81s) LH DOOR WEATHERSTRIP!
View attachment 231570

And the challenger, weighing in at approximately the same 1 lb, the younger, and slightly longer up and comer, the 81-88 Cutlass/Regal LH DOOR WEATHERSTRIP!
View attachment 231571


In the pic below, you can see how the ends are SORTA shaped the same, but there's a wider transition channel in the center where it meets up with the upper side window seal section, as well as a more defined Stone Henge looking brick "hump" where it meets up with the inner door panel and it's slightly wider overall. The 78-80, which is pictured on the right, is smaller and more rounded. It's just...different. Mounting pin locations seem to be in the same general location.
View attachment 231572

78-80 on the right.
View attachment 231576


More slight differences on the door side that you don't see when mounted on the door. Again, 78-80 on the right.
View attachment 231573


Another close-up of the back side of the B-pillar end. Note how "tall" the 81-88 end is in comparison to the 78-80 version.
View attachment 231574


Pick and end. Either end. 78-80 on the right. The two end pins on either end are smaller diameter than the 78-80 version. Why? I have no idea.
View attachment 231575


Below you can see the 81-88 version SLIGHTLY longer on the A-pillar end. Not by much, but it's still longer. 78-80 version on the right.
View attachment 231577



This is the money shot, per se. The A-pillar end shapes where they meet the door are very different between the 78-80 version on top, and the 81-88 version on the bottom.
View attachment 231578


End view of the A-pillar end. You can see there's quite a bit of difference in the nooks and crannies. 78-80 version on top.
View attachment 231579


This time, the 78-80 version is on the left. But you can see where the top mounting pin area is flat where on the 81-88 version it has a tweak in it and it isnt' flat against the door. Keep in mind, to put these even with each other, the alignment pins had to shift down slightly but you can't see it in this picture.
View attachment 231580

God forbid if you tried putting these on a Monte Carlo or GP. If I had a sent of those, I'd compare them too, but I don't. So this is as good as it's going to get.

The myth is busted. But not by much. At least between these two versions. But, it's A/G door weatherstrips are NOT interchangeable everywhere. You have to make sure you know what these fit. Good thing is that the 78-80 version fits ALL A/G El Camino/Caballero doors 78-87. That's only one part number set you have to remember for those. But that's it. If the number is different, so is the part.

Now, if you have good "ends" but a chunk missing in your A/G door weatherstrip between the ends, I'm willing to bet you could cut out the needed chunk from any good A/G body set and be able to fix them, keeping in mind that some may have smaller pins near the ends. The repair probably wouldn't be concours or show quality, but with some black 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and a good steady hand, you may can at least repair your chunked ones at least to function and STILL have that GM softness and sealing capability that GM was famous (or infamous)
I'll add one thing since you did't include the disclaimer like all the places selling parts for these cars, "Don't fit Cutlass Supreme".

Just had to. Now back to the real usable info & don't pay any attention the the Chevy guy.
you are right about that, i found that when oder a set for my 87 cutlass superm disclaimer said it fit all gbody that year. i had to make them work but i am not satified with fit. parts for cutlass are not the same as monte carlos,buick or malibu's no matter what the the disclaimer say's
 
On a related note, if the ones you just bought are indeed the proper ones for the ‘78-80 cars, I would be very interested in buying them off you when you’re done your comparisons.
Since no one else asked...SOLD! To some crazy **** putting Chevy wheel well flares on an Oldsmobile. 🙂
 
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I'm coming back to edit some misinformation that I spewed out earlier in a previous post about the weatherstrip retainers. Those retainers were used on the UPPER side window seals. The door seals used a phillips head screw with a formed in washer head instead of the push in pins. In other words, a larger diameter, low-crowned head for phillips head screwdriver. They're somewhat unique in that they appear to have little grippers on the bottom of the OG screw heads.

1701696669086.png


I don't have the original part number, but one that's ultra close that GM still has is 11515608. These are M4.1 "metric" screws, which is equivalent to the SAE #8 screws. I haven't verified this, but the head diameter is .40" on the 11515608 GM part where the originals I believe are .43"

Classic Industries claims to have repros. Don't know anything about them, but they appear to be very close as well.

Auveco 15774 looks like it might work as well. Again, not verified. But sure looks the part. It might be what Classic Industries sells.

1701697344650.png
 
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