new block questions/options hellllp

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soloone87

Greasemonkey
May 15, 2014
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hollywood,fl
so i cant find anyone in my area that can splay the caps on my 2 bolt main 350 vortec so im looking at other options and i found out that for about 800 bucks (freighted to my door) i can get a remanufactured sbc from summit racing machined out for a 383/355 already
LINK:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...0-30/overview/


question here is should i dump that 699 out for it(plus the 120 for shipping) or try and find a four bolt main block in my area that needs all the machining for a 383 still or any other options for now much more than what id pay for that summit block.
 
You are kind of asking two different things here, I have had many blocks done for splayed caps back years ago before Dart blocks became so common, the idea is now you have a billet steel cap on a block. But I have never seen anyone do it to a one piece rear main seal "mexican" block. These blocks are such poor quality compared to the "010" 350 block that I would never spend the money. The last block I had done, I helped do, and the caps, splay cutting, line boring, decking, cylinder bore/hone, and clearence was almost $1,500 and a lot of work on my part. You are looking at a stock (I assume) 010 block from Summit that will work fine depending on the power you look to make, Summit stuff pre-machined is ok but not great. If you think your building good power these days just go with a Dart block over a stock 30+ year old block.
 
it really depends what you are doing or going to do with the engine... if you are going to go all out and try for as much power as you can get and spin it up to redline often then i would buy a dart block... if you are doing what i did with my 350 vortec, and building yourself a decent street car than your 350 block is just fine and dont waste the money on splaying the caps... quick run down of my "build"... 350 block out of a 98 suburban, full eagle rotating assembly, +5cc flat top pistons, lt4 hot cam (that i will be replacing), edelbrock etec 200 heads, magnum pushrods, 1.6 roller rockers, vette springs, edelbrock polished performer rpm intake, topped with an old dirty qjet... god i love those qjets... its a fun DAILY DRIVER, that can outrun a few imports... and i dont hesitate to wind her way out to 5+ grand on a daily... dont believe the hype, these vortecs will take a hell of a beating, BUT when they go, its usually something catastrophic.... i just ordered a DART 632ci big block for my next build... going to go with all forged internals and the je nos pistons, and spray this b*tch to the moon... now i just have to find a car that can take the power... good luck with your build, and did you start a build thread yet? i would love to see some pics and watch your progress with your build
 
I think it will work great for a 383. The upside is that it's capable of using stock roller lifters for a mild build. The downside is it's already overbored. GM does sell bare blocks in standard bore.
It should be the same casting GM sells machined for a 3.8 stroke The GM block is $1139.97 All new std. bore.
For me I would prefer the possibility of 3 rebuilds from std. bore over maybe 1 from a .030" bore or none from a .040" bore.
I'm sure both versions could use the deck height corrected though.
The Dart SHP blocks look like a hell of a deal though. A 427 small block for not much more than a 383... And can still be bored .040".
 
I lucked out and pulled my Vortec from a 3500 truck and it had four bolt mains and was machined for a mechanical fuel pump.
 
The cost of machining nowadays for "the works" (splayed caps, torque plate honing, square decking, bore, clean, align hone, etc.) costs about as much as a SHP block, which makes the decision easier to me. The aftermarket blocks are thicker, have better oiling and cooling passages and such, plus a virgin bore. Like BPTTONE420012 said not too crazy powerful and you'll be fine. I've built more than a few 450-500+ hp engines with a trued up block and studded 2 bolt mains with no problems at all. A lot depends on good machine work and accurate and clean assembly.
 
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