http://www.patriot-performance.com Very hard to beat their actual guaranteed pump gas performance to dollar than their 383. Performance not only meaning peak HP/TQ but drive ability, durability etc. Lots of experienced guys spec out and build something only to still either spend more after dynoing and tuneing etc or end up with less power and or drive ability or reliability. That said I have not bought anything from them. If you actually plan to enjoy it on the road a put some miles on it you will like the 450HP motor more than the 500HP it will be that much better in driveability with reasonable useable gears & stall. If you want 500+HP and pumpgas & reasonable driveability reliability etc you realistically need to start looking at big blocks imo. Its why I did a 509ci.
New Gbody owner wanting to pick your brains
- Thread starter Lumpy
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First off guys thanks for all of the advice. I like that article BC that is very close to what I want to run. Differences that I want though are a 210cc aluminum head and all forged internals. That way it should hold up to the nitrous a little better. I will probably get ahold of comp cams and see what they recomend. I don't plan on using the nitrous very much but if I have to tear the motor down in the winter and replace bearings and rings then it wont be to bad its just a toy. As far as the quarter panel goes I think I will try to fix it since it will be cheaper and easier. Right after the year is over i get taxes back and I get to dump about 4 grand into this and I'm very excited. Also I started a second part time job just to support the hobby LOL. Anyways I will keep you all updated on the progress. Thanks
First off guys thanks for all of the advice. I like that article BC that is very close to what I want to run. Differences that I want though are a 210cc aluminum head and all forged internals. That way it should hold up to the nitrous a little better. I will probably get ahold of comp cams and see what they recomend. I don't plan on using the nitrous very much but if I have to tear the motor down in the winter and replace bearings and rings then it wont be to bad its just a toy. As far as the quarter panel goes I think I will try to fix it since it will be cheaper and easier. Right after the year is over i get taxes back and I get to dump about 4 grand into this and I'm very excited. Also I started a second part time job just to support the hobby LOL. Anyways I will keep you all updated on the progress. Thanks
That torque curve is cute. 8)
It's a Pontiac car right?
Put a mild 9:1 455 in it with a set of 3.08 gears and have a great running/tractible driver.
Add a 150 shot a show most street pretenders your taillights.
I have a great "recipe" for you.
Oh, I will be selling mucho stuff from my GP project so if you want a glass hood, decklid, bumpers etc etc send me a PM.
Even have a good 455 core to get you started.
It's a Pontiac car right?
Put a mild 9:1 455 in it with a set of 3.08 gears and have a great running/tractible driver.
Add a 150 shot a show most street pretenders your taillights.
I have a great "recipe" for you.
Oh, I will be selling mucho stuff from my GP project so if you want a glass hood, decklid, bumpers etc etc send me a PM.
Even have a good 455 core to get you started.
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Thing is though if I go to a big block won't I have to get a new transmission bigger springs move the mounts and maybe new a arms
You would only have to get slightly stiffer springs which is a cheap fix. 5660 moogs are s10 springs that give factory ride height and are double the stiffness of a factory g body spring. You can use the TH350 transmission if it can bolt up behind an olds motor, basically if it has a dual bolt pattern which I doubt. At that point you are better of going with a big block chevy because that is what your car is set up for. The TH350 will bolt right up behind a big block chevy with no problems and hold up as well. By the sounds of it, the transmission is rebuilt if it has a shift kit etc. Big block chevys use small block chevy mounts and you don't have to replace the A arms either.
The thing is your going to pay more money to get a sbc up to 500bhp which would be very easily accomplished with a big block chevy or olds. I'm just basing my decision on the fact that you have a good chevy transmission that won't bolt up behind an olds engine. You don't have to do a whole lot to a big block to get serious torque and hp. Replacing the springs with the ones I told you about is only 60$ at autozone. I cut out a coil and a quarter out to lower my bu to the ride height I wanted.
The thing is your going to pay more money to get a sbc up to 500bhp which would be very easily accomplished with a big block chevy or olds. I'm just basing my decision on the fact that you have a good chevy transmission that won't bolt up behind an olds engine. You don't have to do a whole lot to a big block to get serious torque and hp. Replacing the springs with the ones I told you about is only 60$ at autozone. I cut out a coil and a quarter out to lower my bu to the ride height I wanted.
not exactly. a 500hp 383 is pretty simple, the only true expensive part are the cylinder heads. other than that it's the same as a stock built 350ci (and the heads are the same as a high HP 350). plus a BBC costs a lot of money for every part. and the sbc is dime a dozen where a BBC is much more just for the block, even the very common 454.
you'd probably spend less money for a 500hp 383 and you'll keep the handling characteristics and lower weight.
I don't think I can beat the prices I have found for a 383. I have found a shortblock all forged 4 bolt main for 2100. I've. Found pro comp aluminum heads for 650 and I don't think I can beat that with a BBC.
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