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I want to get some travel in the front suspension. I'd like to put some Landrum 200# springs on it, a pair of double adjustable shocks, some .5" lower BJs and 1" uppers... I'd like to get the front end very low and have full upward travel of the suspension for weight transfer. Trying to do all that and get my camber and bump-steer under control.
Easy, right?
sounds like you're off to a good start.
a decent set of uppers will change things.some (not all)allow for a better alignment by design alone(caster concerns)much better bushing over the O.E rubber allowing the transfer you're looking for.the taller lower BJ's will lower the car a bit,help with the bump steer too.those 1"taller uppers will aid in the overall scope of the camber too.
 
Are you looking to replace the control arms? If not, remove the bumper under the upper for more droop. Then, remove all the shims from the front bolt of the cross shaft, and get as many on the rear as possible and align. I got about 3.5⁰ caster and-5⁰ camber with Blazer 2" drop spindles. I used a Moog 5662 spring which is 650 lbs/in, I think. However, it's my daily and I like corners.
I'm looking to do whatever it takes to have the camber and bump steer the way it should be. I've seen pics where some have simply put taller ball joints on their car and curing a lot of the issues. I'm not necessarily looking for lightweight, just the proper parts to line everything up... I'm ok with some compromise as long as it works correctly. I want the front suspension to do all it can do to aid in weight transfer.
 
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I'm looking to do whatever it takes to have the camber and bump steer the way it should be. I've seen pics where some have simply put taller ball joints on their car and curing a lot of the issues. I'm not necessarily looking for lightweight, just the proper parts to line everything up... I'm ok with some compromise as long as it works correctly. I want the front suspension to do all it can do to aid in weight transfer.
Tall ball joints and a bumpsteer kit will do wonders for handling, fixing the backwards stock camber curve and factory bumpsteer. Depending on what you’re doing, AFX spindles might be an option that will do the above and give you some Ackerman adjustability. When I added up all my costs for brakes and steering, the AFX option was only a couple hundred more (mainly because I could use C5 brakes). It all depends on your budget and how much work you want to do.
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Tall ball joints and a bumpsteer kit will do wonders for handling, fixing the backwards stock camber curve and factory bumpsteer. Depending on what you’re doing, AFX spindles might be an option that will do the above and give you some Ackerman adjustability. When I added up all my costs for brakes and steering, the AFX option was only a couple hundred more (mainly because I could use C5 brakes). It all depends on your budget and how much work you want to do.
View attachment 158069
I'm drag racing...

that looks very nice!!!
 
if you'd like to start looking into the amount of bump steer you've got before you spend some money,measure your toe in @ ride height.jack the car up just until the tires begin to come off the ground and measure toe again.the difference in your two measurements is half of the total amount of bump steer(toe change) you're working with.these cars have plenty.
 
if you'd like to start looking into the amount of bump steer you've got before you spend some money,measure your toe in @ ride height.jack the car up just until the tires begin to come off the ground and measure toe again.the difference in your two measurements is half of the total amount of bump steer(toe change) you're working with.these cars have plenty.
I'm going to do that. I just bought the car about 3 months ago and the front end only has about 1.5 inches of upward travel before it hits the limiters they installed. It only has about 1.5 inches of downward travel as well before it hits the rubber stops. I think they ran into bump steer issues and limited the travel to compensate for it.
For my application, I think the spring should be weak enough to have the front sit on the rubber bump stop, just barely... that would allow the least amount of forward acceleration (plus the pinion climbing the ring gear) to lift the front and transfer the weight to the rear.

But I will check it where it sits now, to topped out, that would be interesting.
 
For strictly drag racing, bumpsteer correction will give you the biggest bang for the buck.
I think so as well. I have a more powerful (new) engine I'm going to run and It should pull the front tires off the ground easily if the front suspension has full travel. I think that would help consistency a lot.
 
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I think you mean -0.5 camber..... unless you’re all #stancenation. Other than the one nitpick, you’re spot on for cheap decent handles.
Good catch. No, I'm not a Kamber Kid.....
So, stupid question: why are you worried about camber and bumpsteer in drag racing? Those are turning problems. You need caster for high speed stability.
If you're going straight, give these guys a shout
 
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