That's a great car you got there, just enjoy it there aren't to many original SS's out there. If you want to build one get another car and keep that the way you got it. If you must mod it keep your old parts so you can put it back together. Ether way enjoy it. This is just advise so I hope I didn't offend you. Good Luck with it.
New to the forum..my 88 Monte Carlo SS
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I go back and forth on myself. I definitely won't ever sell her. Part of me wants it to be original but the speed freak in me wants to build it. I have the plan all laid out, but I just can't pull the trigger on it. Let's face it, these 305's are a dog.
I'm open to any suggestions on what is and is not worth doing to the original engine. Is a mild cam package and headers just throwing money away? Do they respond well (if any) to aftermarket headers?
I'm open to any suggestions on what is and is not worth doing to the original engine. Is a mild cam package and headers just throwing money away? Do they respond well (if any) to aftermarket headers?
That is a nice car. Sadly T-tops are the weakest of G bodies and more prone to twisting with high HP. Even a hardtop needs reinforcing above 400 HP. My 305 is making 250 HP, not the quickest car but no dog either, but enough to cause some cracks 
. But if it is greatly out of tune or a LG4 then it would be a dog. I hopped mine up 6 years ago when there were alot more direct fit performance parts available for these cars than now. I highly suggest start with replacing the body mount bushings, and don't be surprised if the frame mounts may need some repair washers welded in. Weld in a rear seat brace, and weld on or bolt on rear LCA mount braces. Build a rear frame brace, and install a aftermarket front frame brace. But with the more quickly rising stresss of a turbo motor you would be better off using a hardtop and leaving the T-top alone or not above 400 HP and leave it N/A is my suggestion.
In stock form, a CCC engine has 2 idle speeds, fast idle when the engine is still cold which is 2K RPMs, and curb idle once the engine is warmed up which is 650 RPM. Sounds like it is not kicking down from fast to low and probably a choke problem as already suggested. Since T-tops are more prone to leaking, be sure to keep it in a garage when not in use, just in case. The throttle shaft bushings in the Qjet carb are well known to wear out and leak vacuum by 100K, as well as the timing chain needing replacement by then. Stock timing chain are not too good.
Years ago, there were alot of direct fit performance parts available such as direct fit and fully legal TES headers and Crane Powermax cams. Here is a link on how to build up a L69, but it is dated since many of the listed items are no longer made but can still be found used. http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/ELengines.html
. But if it is greatly out of tune or a LG4 then it would be a dog. I hopped mine up 6 years ago when there were alot more direct fit performance parts available for these cars than now. I highly suggest start with replacing the body mount bushings, and don't be surprised if the frame mounts may need some repair washers welded in. Weld in a rear seat brace, and weld on or bolt on rear LCA mount braces. Build a rear frame brace, and install a aftermarket front frame brace. But with the more quickly rising stresss of a turbo motor you would be better off using a hardtop and leaving the T-top alone or not above 400 HP and leave it N/A is my suggestion. In stock form, a CCC engine has 2 idle speeds, fast idle when the engine is still cold which is 2K RPMs, and curb idle once the engine is warmed up which is 650 RPM. Sounds like it is not kicking down from fast to low and probably a choke problem as already suggested. Since T-tops are more prone to leaking, be sure to keep it in a garage when not in use, just in case. The throttle shaft bushings in the Qjet carb are well known to wear out and leak vacuum by 100K, as well as the timing chain needing replacement by then. Stock timing chain are not too good.
Years ago, there were alot of direct fit performance parts available such as direct fit and fully legal TES headers and Crane Powermax cams. Here is a link on how to build up a L69, but it is dated since many of the listed items are no longer made but can still be found used. http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/ELengines.html
Clone TIE Pilot said:That is a nice car. Sadly T-tops are the weakest of G bodies and more prone to twisting with high HP. Even a hardtop needs reinforcing above 400 HP. My 305 is making 250 HP, not the quickest car but no dog either, but enough to cause some cracks
In stock form, a CCC engine has 2 idle speeds, fast idle when the engine is still cold which is 2K RPMs, and curb idle once the engine is warmed up which is 650 RPM. Sounds like it is not kicking down from fast to low and probably a choke problem as already suggested. Since T-tops are more prone to leaking, be sure to keep it in a garage when not in use, just in case. The throttle shaft bushings in the Qjet carb are well known to wear out and leak vacuum by 100K, as well as the timing chain needing replacement by then. Stock timing chain are not too good.
Years ago, there were alot of direct fit performance parts available such as direct fit and fully legal TES headers and Crane Powermax cams. Here is a link on how to build up a L69, but it is dated since many of the listed items are no longer made but can still be found used. http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/ELengines.html
Very good info, thank you sir! I didn't realize it was quite that big an issue when getting into high HP. I appreciate the knowledge...that's why i'm here, I want to learn everything I can about the car. At this point i'm probably just going to rebuild the 305 and leave her the way she is. Lowering it with 17's is somerthing I may do in the near future also.
The t-top seals do leak but hardly any to speak of..yet. The car is 100% garage kept and does not get driven in rain. I will replace them before too long just so it's done.
I will post pics next week, I have an appointment to tint the windows. Going to do 20% all around and leaving the t-tops as is.
You could still put a mild 350 or mild LS in if you really want. Just don't go really wild with power unless you reinforce the body alot. Forced induction causes stress to rise faster than N/A. With any G body it is always a good idea to add the rear seat brace if it doesn't have one. Good body mounts cuts down on flexing and rattles and really makes th car feel new again.
you could have lots of fun with that thing but for a start put some fuel in it and enjoy it. can drive em much on E hehe 
I'd build that car up and put a new LS motor in it with fuel injection and make it a real sleeper build. I would get bored with the 305 after a year as I did with my 3.8 NA motor. Other then the motor you are golden with that car.
YGspider said:
That's the crazy dream. I'm just not sure i'm ready to get into that big of a project. The condition of the car is too good to rip apart and modify the hell out of it i think. For now, I would be satisfied with waking the 305 up with headers and other minor parts, lowering it with some nice 17x9's, tint the windows (next week), and cruise it. I've had it for 4 years and only driven a handful of times.
The turbo project is definately not out of the question, but not soon.
I see busted g-bodies all the time for sale. The thought has crossed my mind to scoop one up and build an ugly sleeper. Keep my beautiful 88 close to original, and have the ugly, stupid fast brother to beat on
Yeah that's not to bad of a idea or you could always drop in a 5.7 with some work done as it would be hardly noticeable and would be close to stock.
YGspider said:
I can say the 305 is way more fun than the 3.8, 180 HP vs 110 HP. Cam and smog legal headers bumped it up to 240 HP which isn't bad. But at least the OP has better starting point than many G bodies have with n/a V6s.
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