extraño amante de las emisiones solo basura
"Strange lover of emissions only trash"?
extraño amante de las emisiones solo basura
Not really broke, but I do have issues that need to be addressed. One of the headers is rusted out and because it’s a long tube set, have to pull the motor to replace. My 200r4 has issues with OD and the 7.5 rear has already chewed up 2 ring gears and an axle. If I’m going through the trouble to pull the engine to fix headers and the transmission to address it’s issues plus replacing the rear end with a 9” then I might as well upgrade and add more power. Not to mention having one less carbureted car to have to fart around with.1st question, is your 383 broke, junk or blown up? If yes, then ognore the next sentence - your 383 with boost will meet your HP needs EASILY.
Assuming the 383 is no good, Any LS with a GT45 or VS7875 will get you in the 11's at 12-15psi of boost. I'm cheap, so take all of my next comments with a grain of salt, FORGET FiTech, frget the Diamond forged pistons and rebuild. Is your current transmission a TH350 or TH400? If yes then either will work if built properly. If you want a 4L80, then that's a great option as well. A stock rebuilt 4L80 will handle 1000hp without any special parts.
Regarding engine management, if you go with a 4L80, then a Holley Term X Max is by far the cheapest program available and the bonus is that it comes with brand new harnesses, O2 sensor and can be hooked up and running in about 4 hours if you hurry. If no 4L80, then either a Holley Term X or Megasquirt. 80lb Deka injectors will get you to your goal without issue. Sloppy Stage 2 cam with Pac 1218 springs.
My best advice : don't reinvent the wheel. And a 6.0 is a better plan, but when push comes to shove, a 4.8 with 200K miles on the ticker will get you to your goal.
As Chris mentioned, there a bunch of threads here with turbo LS builds. And I agree with Fleming, HP Tuners is great if you have the time and ability to learn it.
Again, dump the FiTech plan - that system poor and the support sucks.
Yes, you love your emission control devices."Strange lover of emissions only trash"?
1st question, is your 383 broke, junk or blown up? If yes, then ognore the next sentence - your 383 with boost will meet your HP needs EASILY.
Assuming the 383 is no good, Any LS with a GT45 or VS7875 will get you in the 11's at 12-15psi of boost. I'm cheap, so take all of my next comments with a grain of salt, FORGET FiTech, frget the Diamond forged pistons and rebuild. Is your current transmission a TH350 or TH400? If yes then either will work if built properly. If you want a 4L80, then that's a great option as well. A stock rebuilt 4L80 will handle 1000hp without any special parts.
Regarding engine management, if you go with a 4L80, then a Holley Term X Max is by far the cheapest program available and the bonus is that it comes with brand new harnesses, O2 sensor and can be hooked up and running in about 4 hours if you hurry. If no 4L80, then either a Holley Term X or Megasquirt. 80lb Deka injectors will get you to your goal without issue. Sloppy Stage 2 cam with Pac 1218 springs.
My best advice : don't reinvent the wheel. And a 6.0 is a better plan, but when push comes to shove, a 4.8 with 200K miles on the ticker will get you to your goal.
As Chris mentioned, there a bunch of threads here with turbo LS builds. And I agree with Fleming, HP Tuners is great if you have the time and ability to learn it.
Again, dump the FiTech plan - that system poor and the support sucks.
You know I still have this complete twin turbo setup for a Gen I SBC sitting on the shelf, right?
View attachment 176014
Intake, elbow, TB, charge piping, headers, downpipes, feeds lines, wastegates, etc. There are a pair of intercoolers tucked underneath. You're just going to need Vortec heads, oil drain bungs in the pan, and an ECM to run it.
And I would gladly sell it.
Not really broke, but I do have issues that need to be addressed. One of the headers is rusted out and because it’s a long tube set, have to pull the motor to replace. My 200r4 has issues with OD and the 7.5 rear has already chewed up 2 ring gears and an axle. If I’m going through the trouble to pull the engine to fix headers and the transmission to address it’s issues plus replacing the rear end with a 9” then I might as well upgrade and add more power. Not to mention having one less carbureted car to have to fart around with.
Where I live the junkyard 6.0’s go for a premium, a cored short block averages $1200. The iron block 5.3 can always be bored 30 over down the road. If I’m buying a used motor I’m still doing a partial tear down with heads removed for cleaning and inspection, I’m not going to take any chances especially on a higher mileage engine. So again, it’s better for me to just start with new stuff and make it the way I want it.
View attachment 176015
LALALALALALALALALALA. I’m not listening!!!!
(Even tho I already have Vortec heads on a certain car…)
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