I never put any anti seize on those threads I’ll mess with that
NO DRUM IN THE REAR
- Thread starter Irishspring46
- Start date
- Status
How long since last brake job?
If adjuster hard to turn, just clean it up on bench grinder wire wheel or hand held wire brush. The best is just get the kit.
If adjuster hard to turn, just clean it up on bench grinder wire wheel or hand held wire brush. The best is just get the kit.
Attachments
Last edited:
I did a whole write up on brakes on the hot rod forum about 10 years ago, so some of it still there.
So on the valve ... Get the tool to lock in place. Do brake job as normal.
When ever you have new rotors or drums have them turned. They get dropped and "man handled" from manufacture to sales, so by the time you get them it is not surprising to see that they are warped or out of round.
Always use new hold down hardware if at all possible, (budget). On adjuster light anti seize or grease... LIGHT COATING, because the grease collects the crud.
Be careful with rebuilt master cylinders, many are poorly rebuilt. Gravity bleed might be fine but no pressure to front or back is an indicator that the Master Cylinder has failed, even though it's "New" or "Rebuilt". I have experienced this too many times.
So on the valve ... Get the tool to lock in place. Do brake job as normal.
When ever you have new rotors or drums have them turned. They get dropped and "man handled" from manufacture to sales, so by the time you get them it is not surprising to see that they are warped or out of round.
Always use new hold down hardware if at all possible, (budget). On adjuster light anti seize or grease... LIGHT COATING, because the grease collects the crud.
Be careful with rebuilt master cylinders, many are poorly rebuilt. Gravity bleed might be fine but no pressure to front or back is an indicator that the Master Cylinder has failed, even though it's "New" or "Rebuilt". I have experienced this too many times.
Last edited:
I've done the same, fluid there doesn't mean the air is out. Need some pressure to push the air out.
On the rear adjustment just get close. There is actually a caliper measuring tool to do this but you really don't need it as a DIY on your own car.
On a G Body you do the passenger rear first, as this is the farthest from the MC (Master Cylinder).
Assuming that shoes are on correctly and everything is good..., adjust the shoes out until they just make contact with the drum surface. Also assuming drums are "True"..., not out-of-round or bell mouth. You need to have fronts wheels chocked up and raise the rear and on stands, with trans in neutral. Rotate the drum and you should hear light contact. Take the drum off and back off adjuster until no contact or just "kisses".
Do this for both sides, button up and lower the rear, go up to fronts and bleed the fronts. When ready for drive go drive it carefully as the rear are still not adjusted fully. Find a stretch of road/street, empty lot, etc.
Drive in reverse about 5 to 10 mph and apply brakes, drive in reverse and apply brakes, do this about 10 times. When finished you should have firm peddle and the rears will be properly adjusted. Works every time if brake job was done correctly.
On a G Body you do the passenger rear first, as this is the farthest from the MC (Master Cylinder).
Assuming that shoes are on correctly and everything is good..., adjust the shoes out until they just make contact with the drum surface. Also assuming drums are "True"..., not out-of-round or bell mouth. You need to have fronts wheels chocked up and raise the rear and on stands, with trans in neutral. Rotate the drum and you should hear light contact. Take the drum off and back off adjuster until no contact or just "kisses".
Do this for both sides, button up and lower the rear, go up to fronts and bleed the fronts. When ready for drive go drive it carefully as the rear are still not adjusted fully. Find a stretch of road/street, empty lot, etc.
Drive in reverse about 5 to 10 mph and apply brakes, drive in reverse and apply brakes, do this about 10 times. When finished you should have firm peddle and the rears will be properly adjusted. Works every time if brake job was done correctly.
Last edited:
I've watched several Uncle Tony's over the years, seems to be good competent mechanic.
When listening to his description of the issue, also mentions work on wheel cylinder at same time. Highly possible that the spray brake cleaner got into the system somewhere and softened the inner liner of the hose. The inner liner can soften and swell depending on its composition and like he showed, no out side appearance of this.
I have seen this happen more on fronts but from different cause. When you do the front caliper and use a clamp or pinch-off pliers on the caliper's brake hose, you have to be careful to not clamp too tight. Doing so can damage the hose and now you can have a full or partial obstruction.
Just an opinion, but in his case some cleaner contaminated the brake fluid and allowed to settle over time and the inner liner swelled causing the blockage.
When listening to his description of the issue, also mentions work on wheel cylinder at same time. Highly possible that the spray brake cleaner got into the system somewhere and softened the inner liner of the hose. The inner liner can soften and swell depending on its composition and like he showed, no out side appearance of this.
I have seen this happen more on fronts but from different cause. When you do the front caliper and use a clamp or pinch-off pliers on the caliper's brake hose, you have to be careful to not clamp too tight. Doing so can damage the hose and now you can have a full or partial obstruction.
Just an opinion, but in his case some cleaner contaminated the brake fluid and allowed to settle over time and the inner liner swelled causing the blockage.
Pinch off pliers when doing brakes.
These are the ones I like, used to get them from NAPA. They are hand pressure, they have a ratchet style lock. When you see flow stop, then stop. They will stay locked until you release them.
NAPA also sells these. I have never used these before, but look like they would be ok.
DO NOT USE THESE. V V V V
I admit I have, but they are not ideal. You can put small cutting of 3/8 hose over the jaws to protect the line, but still not the best. I have done this as well, because it was all I had available at the time, but they are not ideal.
The pliers shown up top are the best for pinch off use.
These are the ones I like, used to get them from NAPA. They are hand pressure, they have a ratchet style lock. When you see flow stop, then stop. They will stay locked until you release them.
NAPA also sells these. I have never used these before, but look like they would be ok.
DO NOT USE THESE. V V V V
I admit I have, but they are not ideal. You can put small cutting of 3/8 hose over the jaws to protect the line, but still not the best. I have done this as well, because it was all I had available at the time, but they are not ideal.
The pliers shown up top are the best for pinch off use.
+1 on the Never Seize for the adjuster threads. Be Aware that those adjusters are side specific. They are a mated set with one having left hand threads and the other having right hand threads. Also make sure that the little thrust washer that is supposed to be between the floating forked tip and the star wheel is there. If not that can cause the star wheel to be reluctant to move.
AS for the bleeding, maybe try to reverse bleed it and pump the oil in to the system at the bleeder screws. Oh yeah, a little, VERY Little wipe of Never Seize on the bleeder screw threads gives them some protection from their environment. Don't get it in the port in the screw tip, just on the threads.
Nick
AS for the bleeding, maybe try to reverse bleed it and pump the oil in to the system at the bleeder screws. Oh yeah, a little, VERY Little wipe of Never Seize on the bleeder screw threads gives them some protection from their environment. Don't get it in the port in the screw tip, just on the threads.
Nick
- Status
Similar threads
