Now I understand why they pull the turbos

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So if you put it in drive and try driving it it won't run at all? Does it just die, pop, do nothing? If it doesnt run at speed it won't brake boost. Don't try making boost until it runs and drives like a normal car. I would actually disconnect the wastegate on the turbo to make sure you don't damage it. The shaft that goes from the diaphram to the hot side on the turbo will have a C clip on the top. Take if off and let the arm going inside the turbo exhaust housing elbow flop around loose. Its not worth blowing the engine up when its not running right. Get it running without the turbo boost as an NA car and then get the turbo making boost.

You could have a massive vacuum leak. Take some carb cleaner when its idling and spray around the carb, EGR housing, any fitting going into the intake tract and see if the engine picks up speed. These engines have a lot of opportunities to vac leak and do not run right with even a minor leak.

Absolutely get a boost gauge.

Is your choke stuck open or closed?

There should be vac lines from the carb to the distributor for vac advance, PECV, wastegate, and thats about it if you deleted the emissions stuff and don't have anything like HVAC stuff teed into it yet.
 
So if you put it in drive and try driving it it won't run at all? Does it just die, pop, do nothing? If it doesnt run at speed it won't brake boost. Don't try making boost until it runs and drives like a normal car. I would actually disconnect the wastegate on the turbo to make sure you don't damage it. The shaft that goes from the diaphram to the hot side on the turbo will have a C clip on the top. Take if off and let the arm going inside the turbo exhaust housing elbow flop around loose. Its not worth blowing the engine up when its not running right. Get it running without the turbo boost as an NA car and then get the turbo making boost.

You could have a massive vacuum leak. Take some carb cleaner when its idling and spray around the carb, EGR housing, any fitting going into the intake tract and see if the engine picks up speed. These engines have a lot of opportunities to vac leak and do not run right with even a minor leak.

Absolutely get a boost gauge.

Is your choke stuck open or closed?

There should be vac lines from the carb to the distributor for vac advance, PECV, wastegate, and thats about it if you deleted the emissions stuff and don't have anything like HVAC stuff teed into it yet.
Car will idle roll down the road, but that's about it. What ports do I use for transmission, distributor, and pevc? If you can describe exactly were those go I will plugevery thing else and start from there. Thanks for the help.
 


For a 49 state 1980 setup. The distributor will go to the farthest left front port, wastegate goes to the middle rear port, trans should go to an open non ported location, i think I went to the farthest right on the back, pecv goes to 2nd and 3rd ports in the front of carb.

Everything else gets tossed.
 
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See if the pic works here
 
1. I have used premium fuel from day one
2. Filter in carb is new
3. Plugs are UR4GP
4. Can not get car to run and drive past 5mph
5. For some reason the monte Carlos didn't come with any boost gauge at all.
My problem is I didn't rebuild the engine so I'm not sure how everything came apart or what enhancements were done. Also I have vacuum ports plugged that don't know what to do with. Will the waste gate move at all while giving it gas in park?
I will plug the mentioned vacuum port and report back in
 
Well reduced vacuum attachments to bare minimum, set timing again, checked for vacuum leaks. Waiting for pay to get a boost gauge. Still popping out the carb when I put it into gear and try and drive.
 
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