Now I understand why they pull the turbos
- Thread starter Mr T Type
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When the intake valve is closed after being open and the oposed cylinder exaust valve closes it is firing on that cylinder.
I really feel like with how the car would idle pretty well and really only have problems under a load that there has to be a vacuum leak some place. I have checked the condition of the cam, lifters, rocker arms, and push rods. Hell, when I took off the rocker assembly the rocker arms still had assembly lube around the top of the valves. All my push rods are snugg not to loose or to tight. Zach I have thought about the top end conversion that you mentioned but I really am trying to keep this car original. I bought this car for my wife to cruise to car shows, so performance is not my main objective. Hell, I'd be happy if it would at least make to town and back! Tomorrow morning the top end goes back together, and I will be sure to pay good attention to any areas that could possibility suck air.
My gut is saying vacuum leak at this point too. Did you check manifold vacuum before you took it apart?
No I didn't check it. I should have this thing together tomorrow afternoon. I'll start fresh.
I once upon had an 83 turbo regal with that carb setup, I believe the same as your MC. The car ran ok for what it was. Never bothered to put in a boost gauge as I knew it wasn't like my 87, probably made like 2psi boost...lmao. Despite an occasional hiccup with the carb, all was well till it sprung a coolant leak from the intake/valley pan gasket. I did some R & R got it all back together....it kicked my *ss. I never was able to get that damn thing to run right again no matter what I did!!
I even removed the intake again and replaced the valley pan twice thinking it didn't seal, double triple quadruple installed the distributor and plug wires, changed the plugs twice, did a vacuum check and a carb spray check around seals.... Anything and everything. At some point I threw in the rag and sold the car as is. Someone bought it and made it a race car. It would idle ok, go into gear and all but as soon as it saw throttle it acted like a total biyotch.
Not trying to be discouraging, hopefully you find the issue and it's simple!
I even removed the intake again and replaced the valley pan twice thinking it didn't seal, double triple quadruple installed the distributor and plug wires, changed the plugs twice, did a vacuum check and a carb spray check around seals.... Anything and everything. At some point I threw in the rag and sold the car as is. Someone bought it and made it a race car. It would idle ok, go into gear and all but as soon as it saw throttle it acted like a total biyotch.
Not trying to be discouraging, hopefully you find the issue and it's simple!
Just saw this thread. I really don't think any tear apart was needed after the compression test. You really need to confirm your timing marks that your using. After that you need a vacuum gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. An AFR guage wold be a GREAT idea as well. You're issue is describing a lean misfire. The AFR gauge would confirm, the vac gauge and fuel pressure gauge will confirm which it is. There is a chance that you experiencing spark issues - a timing light can confirm that.
Have you pulled the plugs? If yes what do they look like? When this starts popping, is it smoking black (rich) from the tailpipe? Is your tailpipe overly sooty or overly clean? Wish you were nearby, this sounds a like fun issue to figure out - would love to have a hand in it.
Best of luck - Jim
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Well, I finished putting my car back together. I paid special attention to any area that would suck air. First go i had timing 180 off fixed that and this thing start d like a dream!!!!!!! I am so pumped right now I have written most words three or for time cause I keep messing up! Now that it runs smooth without the turbo it's time to hook up the waste gate and move forward. So pumped
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