Ok heres the deal. I traded my 350 monte carlo for a 84 cutlass with a 455 30 over. good trade but now i see why he traded me. NO BLINKERS OR WIPERS. NO FLOORBOARDS. I can fix the floors but the blinkers and wipers are not working. hazards come on and blick fast at first but then slow. They said the old steering collum was bad so they changed it. I just bought a new one and put it in and still no blinkers/wipers. Also they put a kill switch in it. The old collum was not firing thats what they said. Came with the 305 tbi. I looked under the dash and theres no wires spliced but they unhooked the ecu. could that be why its gotta get fire through a kill switch and blinkers/wipers dont work? 🙁 🙁
Oh God. What did i get myself into.
- Thread starter 1984Cutlass455
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check ALL wiring. odds are good if things arent working its because they hacked a wire somewhere.
this is why whenever i look at getting a car i inspect it to see how much was done by the owner. the less done to things like the wiring the happier and more confident i am in getting the car. electrical is one thing that will turn you into an alcoholic even if you dont drink at all. it will make you chase your tail and rip your hair out. thats why men are bald, its not genetics!
but seriously check all wiring and get schematics with the coloring for all the wires. this makes life so much easier for you. try a service manual from helm inc, you can usually find used ones on ebay or you can opt to buy a new one, for me it would have cost 75 bucks but i got a used one for 40 bucks.
though if they flash fast then slow check the bulbs, check the flasher itself, check grounds. i would check flasher and maybe even replace it, its cheap so not a big deal to replace.
but as for the wires get schematics and follow the wires and splice them as needed. use shrink tubing and everything. do it right and you wont have to do it again most likely. do it cheaply and you'll be doing it again most likely.
this is why whenever i look at getting a car i inspect it to see how much was done by the owner. the less done to things like the wiring the happier and more confident i am in getting the car. electrical is one thing that will turn you into an alcoholic even if you dont drink at all. it will make you chase your tail and rip your hair out. thats why men are bald, its not genetics!
but seriously check all wiring and get schematics with the coloring for all the wires. this makes life so much easier for you. try a service manual from helm inc, you can usually find used ones on ebay or you can opt to buy a new one, for me it would have cost 75 bucks but i got a used one for 40 bucks.
though if they flash fast then slow check the bulbs, check the flasher itself, check grounds. i would check flasher and maybe even replace it, its cheap so not a big deal to replace.
but as for the wires get schematics and follow the wires and splice them as needed. use shrink tubing and everything. do it right and you wont have to do it again most likely. do it cheaply and you'll be doing it again most likely.
So its not the ecu being unplugged?
theres no ecu at all. it was a v8 tbi but has a 455 old school motor.
theres no ecu at all. it was a v8 tbi but has a 455 old school motor.
1984Cutlass455 said:
The ecu has nothing to do with the wipers/blinkers. It is a completely different harness from the other wiring in the car.
Just be prepared to learn how to diagnose electrical problems, it will be fun. Once you learn how everything works, it will get easier.
but theres power running to the plugs where the ecu was plugged in at? Ill pull the dash pad off tomorrow and look for wires. but in the mean time any more anwsers?
This may sound silly, but do none of the bulbs work? It's a one in a million chance that they could be burned out, but I doubt it (worth a look though before tearing into the car).
Where I would start is to pick up a Haynes manual for your year/model. Find the wiring diagram for each of the things that aren't working and familiarize yourself with it a little. If you don't have a multimeter, now would be a good time to get one. After figuring out where each wire is supposed to go, use the multimeter (on the OHMs scale) and check for continuity (resistance should be very close to zero). If not, then you have a break somewhere. Also, check for good grounds (battery-to-fender, block-to-firewall, etc.).
Where I would start is to pick up a Haynes manual for your year/model. Find the wiring diagram for each of the things that aren't working and familiarize yourself with it a little. If you don't have a multimeter, now would be a good time to get one. After figuring out where each wire is supposed to go, use the multimeter (on the OHMs scale) and check for continuity (resistance should be very close to zero). If not, then you have a break somewhere. Also, check for good grounds (battery-to-fender, block-to-firewall, etc.).
X2 on checking/replacing all your bulbs.
Get a factory service manual.
In the troubleshooting section, it will tell you in order what things to check to chase down the problem with your wipers.
Since your hazards work, and your signals don't, here's a quick test.
Look under the dash at your fuse panel. The two big round silver deals are the signal and hazard flashers. Swap them. Now try your signals and hazards. If the signals now work, and the hazards don't, you just need a new flasher. If the signals still don't work and the hazards still do, then it's time to dig deeper.
Sound's to me like the turn-signal/wiper switch inside the column might be the problem.
Get a factory service manual.
In the troubleshooting section, it will tell you in order what things to check to chase down the problem with your wipers.
Since your hazards work, and your signals don't, here's a quick test.
Look under the dash at your fuse panel. The two big round silver deals are the signal and hazard flashers. Swap them. Now try your signals and hazards. If the signals now work, and the hazards don't, you just need a new flasher. If the signals still don't work and the hazards still do, then it's time to dig deeper.
Sound's to me like the turn-signal/wiper switch inside the column might be the problem.
Also if the headlights have issues, there are two switches where there is a connection. One is at the headlight switch itself, and there is another switch mounted to the column with a rod going to it for the high/low beams, it's mounted with the ignition switch (not the column lock where the key goes).
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