\dogshit said:
Actually i've been using the Valvoline durablend lately,, does this have the zddp that you mentioned?
Oil and Filters
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Actually i've been using the Valvoline durablend lately,, does this have the zddp that you mentioned?
crappycutlass said:
Nice job crappycutlass!! good reading!!
Boy everybody always raved about Mobil 1 ,,,ha!! what a joke!!
I never bought it,,, too much money anyways. Valvoline tested way better!
Valvoline Durablend is now zinc reduced like all other oils per government mandate. As mentioned the only widely available reasonably priced exception that I know of is Valvoline VR1 and that is because they only advertise it as a raceing oil ie not for highway use. Durablend is great but you should still use a zddp additive for your more aggressively cammed/sprung flat tappet engine.
PS The oil article crappy cutlass posted is great but it was done prior to our government takeing the zinc packages out so unfortunately its at least less relevant today.
PS The oil article crappy cutlass posted is great but it was done prior to our government takeing the zinc packages out so unfortunately its at least less relevant today.
I have been using Mobil 1 15/ 50 wt oil, but figured what's the sense of paying that kind of money for oil when the extra zinc is no longer there.
In one of my other cars, I also ran Mobil 1 and decided to go with the Valvoline VR-1 20-50. First off I noticed higher oil pressure. It pours like Lucas. Has anyone noticed that?
As for oil filters, I use Purolator Pure one. Like many of us, I also had been using Fram filters until I heard about the negative feedback regarding them. You can't go wrong with Wix, NAPA Gold, or Purolator.
Brad Penn is supposed to be good oil. I've read that it's based on the old Kendal GT-1 formula, only that I think it's a blend rather than straight petroleum oil.
The new Kendal GT-1 20-50 racing oil also supposed to have added zinc for us flat tappet guys.
I may give that a try next.
In one of my other cars, I also ran Mobil 1 and decided to go with the Valvoline VR-1 20-50. First off I noticed higher oil pressure. It pours like Lucas. Has anyone noticed that?
As for oil filters, I use Purolator Pure one. Like many of us, I also had been using Fram filters until I heard about the negative feedback regarding them. You can't go wrong with Wix, NAPA Gold, or Purolator.
Brad Penn is supposed to be good oil. I've read that it's based on the old Kendal GT-1 formula, only that I think it's a blend rather than straight petroleum oil.
The new Kendal GT-1 20-50 racing oil also supposed to have added zinc for us flat tappet guys.
I may give that a try next.
I do not know a whole lot when it comes to your specific setup but I do know WIX brand filters are great filters. That is what I have used in my crate motor and valvoline to go with it since I bought it and have yet to run into any problems.
Thanks everyone for the responses, keep them coming if you can.
Got a little bit more info / thoughts from this past weekend's Horespower TV show. They were finishing up the build on the 455 they started at Mondello's place (only reason I watched it) and were talking about the breakin oils and ZDDP.
Said the Rotella T should only be used during breakin, because if left in as the regular fill causes sludge eventually. (Don't shoot the messenger, just repeating what the kid said)
Royal Purple break-in, to be used only for breakin
Goulage that Mondello recommended, along with the Royal Purple. That stuff look like the Chicken-a-la-King grease / gravy we used to get in grade school.
Unfortunately didn't state what they used after cam break-in, but guess Royal Purple.
Again, thanks for the information and fast responses.
Got a little bit more info / thoughts from this past weekend's Horespower TV show. They were finishing up the build on the 455 they started at Mondello's place (only reason I watched it) and were talking about the breakin oils and ZDDP.
Said the Rotella T should only be used during breakin, because if left in as the regular fill causes sludge eventually. (Don't shoot the messenger, just repeating what the kid said)
Royal Purple break-in, to be used only for breakin
Goulage that Mondello recommended, along with the Royal Purple. That stuff look like the Chicken-a-la-King grease / gravy we used to get in grade school.
Unfortunately didn't state what they used after cam break-in, but guess Royal Purple.
Again, thanks for the information and fast responses.
I found that kinda weird that they said that about the Rotella. They are supposed to have lots of detergent since it is a diesel oil, how would that cause sludge?
Okay, boys, here's my two cents...
I've been a mechanic for over 15 years. I've done lots of testing on oils and filters. Lots of this info is on the web, too.
I use Mobil Delvac super for my engine oil. It comes in 15/40 and its conventional oil. It still has pretty high levels of zinc. The last batch I got was in January when I was home on vacation. I get mine from the Detroit Diesel shop that I used to work at. They market it as Detroit Diesel 15/40, of course.
Any diesel 15/40 is preferable to any of the conventional motor oils out there, except the VR1 from Valvoline. I still think prefer the diesel stuff because it is a bit cheaper. The VR1 is actually diesel approved and rated (I used to run it in my little diesel pickups) but I only buy it if I am running straight weight. I like the multi-weight 15/40 better. It's just personal. As for the other car oils, forget it. All of your big name diesel oils, like Chevron Delo, Rotella, Mobil Delvac, etc..., all have lots more detergents and additives that keep your engine cleaner and cleaner for a longer period of time.
As far as filters go, I'll see if I can find the link for the comparison online that I use. Fram is the worst, absolutely the worst by far. They have less filtering material and the bypass valve is glued on cardboard. Don't run that crap. Most are made in Mexico, by the way.
The Wix (Napa) filters are good. Baldwin are the best. If you were running hastings and lost oil pressure, you probably have a weak oil pump. Hastings are made by the same company as Delco and Wix and they are good. There is more filter media inside and the bypass valves are good.
Personally, I run Delco filters and Mobil Delvac.
I've been a mechanic for over 15 years. I've done lots of testing on oils and filters. Lots of this info is on the web, too.
I use Mobil Delvac super for my engine oil. It comes in 15/40 and its conventional oil. It still has pretty high levels of zinc. The last batch I got was in January when I was home on vacation. I get mine from the Detroit Diesel shop that I used to work at. They market it as Detroit Diesel 15/40, of course.
Any diesel 15/40 is preferable to any of the conventional motor oils out there, except the VR1 from Valvoline. I still think prefer the diesel stuff because it is a bit cheaper. The VR1 is actually diesel approved and rated (I used to run it in my little diesel pickups) but I only buy it if I am running straight weight. I like the multi-weight 15/40 better. It's just personal. As for the other car oils, forget it. All of your big name diesel oils, like Chevron Delo, Rotella, Mobil Delvac, etc..., all have lots more detergents and additives that keep your engine cleaner and cleaner for a longer period of time.
As far as filters go, I'll see if I can find the link for the comparison online that I use. Fram is the worst, absolutely the worst by far. They have less filtering material and the bypass valve is glued on cardboard. Don't run that crap. Most are made in Mexico, by the way.
The Wix (Napa) filters are good. Baldwin are the best. If you were running hastings and lost oil pressure, you probably have a weak oil pump. Hastings are made by the same company as Delco and Wix and they are good. There is more filter media inside and the bypass valves are good.
Personally, I run Delco filters and Mobil Delvac.
I am in the process of becoming a ZDDPlus distributor in my area, no one around here sells any additive. I called all my local parts stores, and only one guy knew what I was talking about. GM changed the part number for the EOS and now call it Assembly lube, and its like $22 a bottle. Zddp is a 4oz bottle thats about $10, and it provides the correct amount of zinc levels needed for 4-6 qts of oil. ZDDP has more zinc content in 4oz than a 16oz bottle of EOS/Assembly lube as its more concentrated. I would recommend adding it to your current oils that you use, since everyone usually has a different brand they prefer.
As far as filters, I always run AC Delco. Never had a problem. ACD used to make a silverguard and a gold filter, but they discontinued them after a couple years due to poor sales. Frankly, they didn't market them good enough.
As far as filters, I always run AC Delco. Never had a problem. ACD used to make a silverguard and a gold filter, but they discontinued them after a couple years due to poor sales. Frankly, they didn't market them good enough.
Amsoil has the zinc that's required and no additives are needed. Run the oil with an Amsoil filter and your engine is good for 25,000 miles. Using Amsoil and it's filter for 25,000 miles does not void the manufacturers warranty..
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Warr ... nuson.html
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Warr ... nuson.html
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