Oil pan

[64nailhead]

After reading a ton of other build threads this is what I ordered.

CTSV pan
Spohn frame mounts
F body LS engine side mounts
G-force crossmember for 4l60e

Depends on if you plan on using AC, want to run the stock truck AC pump, etc.

You will need the pickup for that pan as well and also will have to plug off the DOD relief.

Why F-body mounts? Dirty Dingo, All Star Performance, ICT Billet and many others make a mount that allows you to move the engine forward and back as needed. And they work with the factory clam shells as well.

 

[gearheaddrew]

You will need the pickup for that pan as well and also will have to plug off the DOD relief.

Why F-body mounts? Dirty Dingo, All Star Performance, ICT Billet and many others make a mount that allows you to move the engine forward and back as needed. And they work with the factory clam shells as well.

Yes I got the windage tray, pickup tube, and dip stick as well but didn't include that in my original response. I wanted to keep VVT, my engine does not have AFM/DOD, L20 4.8L.

F-body mounts are what were designed to work with the Spohn frame side mounts. They allow the use of the truck AC pump as outlined here: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/ac-notch-or-relocation.60298/page-2

 

[64nailhead]

Yes I got the windage tray, pickup tube, and dip stick as well but didn't include that in my original response. I wanted to keep VVT, my engine does not have AFM/DOD, L20 4.8L.

I believe that pan will have the provision for DOD/AFM. It's quite easy to overcome. Remove the pressure relief and drill it out for a 3/8 npt plug. Now that I think about it, I can't remember if it's 1/4 or 3/8 pipe plug. No matter, only one size will work.

More power to you about the VVT, I'd prefer not to keep it.

 

[Turbolq4]

How far below the crossmember?

 

[64nailhead]

Mine looks about the same 1.5-2"

 

[81cutlass]

I had a '00 silverado truck pan on my GP for like 10k miles and 3 years. I never hit the pan on anything, but when I hit a railroad track I slowed down and I didn't do any off roading, like any sane person would do. That being said I did swap to the holley pan last winter for some peace of mind. It seems like the people saying you CAN'T run a truck pan (mostly on FB) have never done it and are the people who say 'do it right the first time' but never have their project driving.

The muscle car pan isn't much better than the stock truck/suv pan. Like 3/4" best case.

I guess what I am saying is if you don't have any oil pan that fits (GMT360 tbss, any holden chassis car) and need a cheap one the GM musclecar pan is fine. However, if you already have a truck pan and are OK with it hanging below the crossmember the GM pan is little to no improvement so just keep the truck pan. If you want to lower the car or want the peace of mind the CTSV or holley (or knockoff) is a great option.

I am happy with the holley pan decision I made, and happy with running the car with the truck pan for the first 3 years. You can always swap the pan down the road. If that $250+ expense for the lower profile pan means not getting the car on the road for another few months, keep the truck pan. If it doesn't mean that much to you put the CTSV or holley on from day 1.

 

[64nailhead]

The issue I had with the Holley pan was the 5 or 5.5qt capacity. I probably overthought it as I have been known to do from time to time. But I was concerned about emptying the pan in 10 seconds at 72-8000 rpm's.

I put 7 qts with the filter in the SUV pan, even though it's supposed to hold 6. I seen Happel overfill it with an additional qt and figured if he wasn't aerating the oil and not wiping bearings because of the aeration, then it should work for me as well.

 

[64nailhead]

View attachment 163197

Should’ve mentioned - I like the open dump - yeah!!