Oil Recommendations

[megaladon6]

ZDDP is a zinc and phosphate compound. it acts like a cushion between the cam and the lifters and other high compression load areas. flat tappets have a much higher pressure and subsequent friction than roller cams. as the EPA started lowering the allowable levels in oil (to preserve catalytic converters) many cam companies started having problems. it doesn't seem to be a problem on the older stock parts, but that might be due to the lower spring pressures and gentler lobe ramps.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

It stands for Zinc disomething phosphate, and it is an anti-wear agent. It is better for engines with flat tappet cams because it reduces wear better. It's been largely removed because most new cars have roller valvetrains, and the ZDDP is supposedly not good for O2 sensors or Catalytic Converters ( I forget which).

 

[pontiacgp]

I run Amsoil...and you'll notice how much quicker the engine revs using synthetic..

So which weight do you run, 10W40? Do you order / purchase this online or parts store? Are the change intervals the same as say, a Valvoline, Quaker State or extended?

I run10w30 and the owner of the race car is an amsoil dealer and amsoil is one of the sponsors so the only lubricant that is not amsoil in my car is the transmission... as far as changing the oil about every 7,500 miles.....the trick is to use a filter that lasts that long..

 

[jae]

the old thing about synthetic causing leaks isn't really true anymore. if the rings are pretty worn you might get some more burnt oil as the synthetic sticks to the walls better, but that's about it.

as for amsoil, i know a number of people who like it and have had no problems....but, i know alot more people that have problems. plus one of the engineers i work with, who is an oil/lubrication specialist, says that it's pretty much crap. he said that mobil 1 is the pretty much the best stuff you can get, but since they don't make a high ZDDP oil, valvoline is a very good substitute.
one that i haven't checked the ZDDP levels on is valvolines Q synthetic oil, it might be good.

Thanks for all the info. Yeah, I found the same in terms of switching from conventional to synthetic, if your ring's are solid you won't have any problems, but if their worn you're going to get burning, and it happens even if you switch to a lower viscosity oil. Had that problem on an old Datsun/ Nissan turbo, went up to 20W50 as the lower viscosity would burn a little. I know that thicker oil didn't help that turbo, or the engine for that matter in the winter, but that little puppy kept running - rusting out underneath, but it ran. Like I said I used to run the regular Mobil (blue bottle) in all my vehicles, and then it just disappeared.

My 350 is pretty fresh and solid, was broken in properly and the heads / and when checking the oil it's very clean (had the valve covers off earlier in the summer). Again, thanks.

 

[shotgun]

Had a couple people ask about the "NAPA" oil.

First, it is my understanding that "NAPA" oil is made for them by Valvoline.

Maybe it's rebottled VR-1, which is good stuff!!

The part# for the 10/30 is 205.

Any other weight most likely will be special order.

Let me know how you make out.

 

[shotgun]

Boy is my face red.

That's what I get for not looking.

In my quickbooks , I have listed " NAPA offroad 205" and I am supposed to have 6 in stock.

Checked my shelf and sitting there is 6 bottles of Valvoline.

I called my machinist at NAPA, he confirmed that Valvoline does make thier oil, but they don't rebottle "not for highway use " oil.

So when I am ordering threw my system, what I thought was NAPA, I am getting Valvoline.

Again, sorry for the confusion, I am going to go sit in a corner now. :lol:

 

[dogsht]

Well we are all human. The thing is your last post still leaves us with the only commonly availble & reasonably priced solutions for flat tappet cam engines especially those with high perfomance cam & springs being?...
Anyone hear crickets?

So Valvoline VR1 or buying ZDDP additive such as Lucas now sells and or maybe a full synthetic none of which leaves you normally paying less than say $5 a quart. (I remember buying house brands at 79 to 99 cents a quart) Just trying to avoid one more pay to play into the equation. Like you, on a higher end more serious but still flat tappet cammed say street strip motor ok but on something less I am still trying to find something that will do the job but is still more economical.

BTW when I switched my 100k+ mile and raced GN motor to a synthetic I got a rear main leak many get oil pan valve cover leaks they never had before. This is not to knock synthetic as it can happen when you move to any light thin oil such as a 0-30 or something but especially with slippery synthetics. With a fresh machined and rebuilt motor I think they are great.

I know our government took the zinc / ZDDP out of our for highway use oils in part due to cat converters and more recently took it out of the diesel truck oils. I thought off road "old field tractor" oil but still detergent might be a solution even if you have to buy it in 2.5 gallon or 5 gallons pails as they call it.

 

[jae]

Had a couple people ask about the "NAPA" oil. First, it is my understanding that "NAPA" oil is made for them by Valvoline. Maybe it's rebottled VR-1, which is good stuff!! The part# for the 10/30 is 205. Any other weight most likely will be special order. Let me know how you make out.

Thanks shotgun, and everyone else for the help and insight. Sorry for the delay in responding, work's been more & more hectic the past few weeks (but happy as you-know-what that I'm still working). Have decided and will be getting Valvoline.

If I don't talk to guys have a wonderful holiday!!