Ok suspension experts got a centerlink question(s) for you

[shotgun]

I am educating myself on suspension design/function and got a question.

First, I know with suspension one change has a domino effect, but dumb it down for now.

Anyway, would a centerlink with a tie rod end spacing of 19 inches (same as LCA mount points) be a good start toward mitigating bumpsteer?

Now, if I can lower those points to be close to the same LCA mount point height, bumpsteer will be getting "better", correct?

Please just focus on this for now, will work on the other end of the tie rod later.

Thanks

 

[Streetbu]

Nothing like an easy question out of the gate 🙂 LOL I would post this over on protouring.com and try to get Ron Sutton to answer. He'll know the answer for sure.

 

[Ribbedroof]

As I understand it from my collision repair training, you want the tie rods at rest to be parallel to the road surface. You want the rod to run level to where it attaches to the steering arm. If the car has been lowered (or raised) much beyond it's original ride height, the ideal mounting point will change from the OE design.

 

[pontiacgp]

for a street car you want the tie rods parallel to the lower control arm.

 

[theoldsone]

Uhhhmmmm

 

[drogg1]

Just saw this thread the other day:

http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=124094

 

[MC96]

3rd gen camaro centerlinks work pretty good
AFCO re boxes them and calls them "bump steer correcting" center links
Allstar performance offers an adjustable one. it will interfere with the welded assembly on the crossmember that the f41 bars bolt to. Its pretty trick
I have both a Moog and an AFCO new in the box that I probably wont use.........

 

[shotgun]

I posted on the Maliburacing post.

The overall length of a stock centerlink in 22", what is the Fbody one?

If different, what about ackerman?

I am trying to build my first handling car so it 1/2 street/1/2 race.

If the tie rods are parallel AND closer to the LCA arm mounting point and ball joint pivot point, would this not be best?

Theoldsone, besides the one on the top of your head, what's your point????

 

[MC96]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-...oved-Geometry-Steering-Center-Link,48370.html

Overall length is 24.38, but that doesnt effect bump steer. The tie rod holes center to center being 15.56 is what effects it.

I think you give up a bit in turning radius, instead of the pitman and idler arms running parallel they are spread apart more, which I would imagine makes your steering wheel off when going straight, you might have to pull the steering shaft off, straighten the wheel and re-install.

Here is a thread about it.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/front-center-link-from-1990-camaro.54542/page-2

As far as having the tie rods parallel to the ground etc. Thats a good starting point but what you need to do is bump the car out. Longacre sells bumpsteer guages.

You need to plot it out on a graph and let this graph tell you what to do.

That Allstar centerlink is fully adjustable with the exception of moving the mount for the tie rod in and out. It can go up/ down as a whole and then change the mounting point of the inner tie rod height as well

http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=733&part=ALL56330&add=no

You will most likely need a bump stud from UB machine P/N 40-4203

 

[shotgun]

MC96, thanks for the response.

I know that overall length does not affect bumpsteer, tie rod mounting points do, but it does change ackerman.

Since the Camaro is doing what I asked in my first question, just to a lesser degree, I guess the answer to my first question is yes.

At this point I feel you would be correcting one issue but creating another with the Camaro link.

A Howe centrelink arrived today, so much for low budget, when I have a chance I want to compare it to the stock replacement one.

Looking forward to learning something!