I had 2.56 gears on my 88, 3.42 gears made a massive difference in acceleration. Do you drive a lot at highway speeds and I mean 80 mph?
Olds 307 VIN 9 cam vs VIN Y torque converter
- Thread starter kustomkyle
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When the engine eventually is actually redone, that is the plan. Longer trips as opposed to mainly short trips now to work.
I hope so or there is no benefit keeping 2.56 gears unless you drive at 80 mph a lot, even with the short, stock tires. When I had my 2.56 gears, my lock didn't work I didn't notice because my rpm's were so low. I fixed the lock up and it lugged pretty bad, especially under any load. Here is a very accurate calculator with the 2004R already calculated in along with your 2.56 gears. The final number is with the torque converter locked up. http://tech.oldsgmail.com/axle_RPM.php
What does your trans shift at, full throttle? It varies a lot, I have seen 3000 to 4200 full throttle. The 4200 rpm shift point would work just fine.
It's a 1986 Buick Regal Limited, so, no tachometer. I don't think I've ever had it full throttle except maybe once or twice when I had to pass people. Right now I have the lockup unplugged on the transmission as it didn't want to stay locked (acted like it was slipping between 4th and overdrive).
Might not. But, just trying to see if it's going to hurt drivability somehow. It's what I have as a replacement camshaft for the rebuild, VIN Y ones cost just as much in the aftermarket (Melling, etc).
I had forgotten about the VIN 9 full-size Cadillac Broughams from the late 1980's. Never knowingly saw one, but they supposedly had the single inlet air cleaner (would imagine sans chrome lid too), and nothing special done to the transmission. So, must really work after all, even though that's about twice the car a G-body is. And I'm sure they didn't exactly come with highway gears, at least not 2:56's.
Your drivability not going to hurt, just hate to see someone spend their time making a cam change and be disappointed.
Cadillac that had Vin 9 was the full size limo, it had the D5 converter and the valve body in the transmission had a higher shift points close to KZF to move that tank. Even the Eprom in the ECM was calibrated different.
Cadillac that had Vin 9 was the full size limo, it had the D5 converter and the valve body in the transmission had a higher shift points close to KZF to move that tank. Even the Eprom in the ECM was calibrated different.
If you do swap cams it's worth doing this mod to the governor in the trans.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/200r4-mod-info.7116/
I did it with the BY valve body 200r4 out of a B body I picked up from the salvage yard for my turbo 3.8 cutlass.
I swapped speedometer gears to match my 3.42 axle and since I pulled the governor to swap the gear I did this while I was in it.
Made a huge different and I would not own another 200r4 car without the mod. It's free (i guess a 15 cent gasket) but livened up the shift points for free and minimal work in the car.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/200r4-mod-info.7116/
I did it with the BY valve body 200r4 out of a B body I picked up from the salvage yard for my turbo 3.8 cutlass.
I swapped speedometer gears to match my 3.42 axle and since I pulled the governor to swap the gear I did this while I was in it.
Made a huge different and I would not own another 200r4 car without the mod. It's free (i guess a 15 cent gasket) but livened up the shift points for free and minimal work in the car.
I have a factory 4000+ shift governor, I can send in the mail for next to nothing. I modified 2 like the link above, it puts the shifts at around 5000 RPM. I also staked the small spring by tapping a scew and lock tighting it in and grinding the head in place, like he shows. i never had a spring fly out since staking it, the regular, no performance governor's don't have that issue. You should replace the lock up solenoid and give it fresh fuild when engine is out getting overhauled anyways, perfect time to swap the governor if it shifting at 3000 RPM. Of course the same can be said for a torque converter as well.
Lots of great info. Probably the best thing to do would be to get the lockup working first. I had issues when I first got the car on occasion, then they disappeared. Five years later I had the TCC solenoid replaced because it was acting up again. Seemed to help, then it went awry again, so it got unplugged. Might be the converter.
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