We'll seeThen a video is a must. Slo-mo if you can do it.
We'll seeThen a video is a must. Slo-mo if you can do it.
The spare is ready. Zipper? 4 hours to swap.It's on a zipper, right?
What's that black stuff on the quarters? 🤔Skinnies !!View attachment 178635View attachment 178636
want to thank a local guy for the tire selection and sending me the link to the wheels. It’s looks faster already lol.
I did make it to the track last night, wow, bad, puke, awful. My chinesium/Amazon trans cooler fan gave up which is in the same circuit as my line lock. So awful burnout, terrible launch, then can’t get the trans temp down between runs - smh.
But onto next time.
Remnants of Mickey Thompson. He will live on forever if I never clean that off.What's that black stuff on the quarters? 🤔
Nope. I am running a Hoosier Radial Slick https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18815. I havent tried a bias ply on the street. However the Hoosier radial slick is probably as close as you can get to a bias ply still being a radial. Sorry for the late reply. I have the cheaper Viking shocks in the rear with some type of either gbody lowering spring or a stock A body spring. I run them 20psi at the track and the street. Front shocks are some blown lakewood 90/10s and I think 6 cylinder springs. I also have TRZ spherical heims on everything in the rear, and a TRZ weld in anti-roll bar set neutral. When I went to the track I set the shocks at basically 50/50 in the rear.I bought a set of the Pro street radials from Amazon and they turned out to be M/T 2nd's that M/T discarded - they took over 15 oz to balance. Fortunately, I was able to return them for a refund and found a friend with a set of Street S/S in stock never installed, and needed the money. He sold them to me for $400.
Something to keep in mind, 10 years ago the Street S/S radial was all that was offered and the X275 guys were running sub 5 second 1/8's on them. The Pro Street's came out after that. The issue with the Pro Streets is that they are like ice skates on a wet road where as the ET Street S/S's can handle a wet road. For a track only car, the Pro Streets are better, but at my level I ask how much? I don't think ET Street tire is my issue - it's my tune. Your issue is probably the same - you have to cut the crap out of the timing to cut power to get it to launch.
The solution is a bias ply if you never drive on the street, but who does that?
wingnutks I believe he is running a bias ply and he's gettin' it done on the hit. I'd like to know his entire setup for shocks, tires, pressure, timing, etc.
Thanks for the reply. After this past weekend I'm clutching at straws. But I'm learning every time out.Nope. I am running a Hoosier Radial Slick https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-18815. I havent tried a bias ply on the street. However the Hoosier radial slick is probably as close as you can get to a bias ply still being a radial. Sorry for the late reply. I have the cheaper Viking shocks in the rear with some type of either gbody lowering spring or a stock A body spring. I run them 20psi at the track and the street. Front shocks are some blown lakewood 90/10s and I think 6 cylinder springs. I also have TRZ spherical heims on everything in the rear, and a TRZ weld in anti-roll bar set neutral. When I went to the track I set the shocks at basically 50/50 in the rear.
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