Opinions on Parts Store Crankshafts?

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The 350 is literally a 3.8 plus two cylinders (or rather the 3.8 is a 350 minus two). And I just got off the phone with a friend of my dad's that got a 74 Apollo with a 350 2 barrel that he'll sell me for 400 bucks. the motor, not the whole car. I assume he'll put one of his 455s into the Apollo. That'll be a hell of a ride.
 
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What mounts did you use? I've asked 10 different people and gotten 10 different answers. Most common being just make your own, which I can't.
 
Plus, I'd need exhaust that's 300 right there. A new transmission, 800-1500 dollars. I do NOT trust the th350 I have behind a big block Buick. I'd probably need another torque converter now that I think about it. I can't see in the picture, it may have a starter, it may not. that's a potential 100 or so dollars. It's just not right for me in my current financial situation, and it is NOT a drop in like the 350 is. Don't argue that it is. I've done it, I know how involved, or not involved rather, the swap is. Yes, you can put a 455 buick in there. But will I? No. The only ONLY way I would ever consider doing it is if I got a ready to run BBB dropped at my feet with all the accessories and hardware and mounts to put it in place. Oh, and springs and shocks, bushings, transmission....
 
Sorry to tell you. All that stuff you don't claim to trust enough behind the 455 won't last behind the 350. And yes it is a drop in. My car wasn't the only one I've seen swapped with stock stuff. In hs I almost bought a 72 skylark converter with a 455 from a 72 full size Buick swapped in. Also came with the original 350. He even showed me the donor. Still had the frame mounts in place. So unless you've had a 455 Buick swapped g body don't claim to know more than someone that has. And if it costs you $300 for header pipes may wanna consider another hobby. Sorry to be a butthead but that's how I see it
 
350 for $400 is a good deal.

I dont care how well you know the guy, do a compression test, and check the oil pressure. If you have over 145 psi in every cylinder, and over 15psi idle (hot) and over 40psi part throttle (hot) around 1500-2000rpm, its a sound engine. Of course listen for knocks and stuff too.


If it doesnt add up to those numbers keep looking.
 
And I apologize if I'm coming off as a bit crass, but it really just doesn't make sense to me. This is my situation: spent 4k on a nice new motor and it wound up eating itself alive. Spend 1500-2000 making that motor right again and put it back where it was with everything I have, or spend 600 bucks, plus 3-4000 to get it to where the car itself can handle having a giant torquey big block in it. In my current financial situation, the 350 makes more sense. Plus as I added before I have a solid line on a 350 I can toss in my car with no worries, using EVERYTHING I still have, even my good redone cylinder heads and timing cover with new oil pump and HEI I can put in it, and my 4 barrel intake and qjet.
 
350 for $400 is a good deal.

I dont care how well you know the guy, do a compression test, and check the oil pressure. If you have over 145 psi in every cylinder, and over 15psi idle (hot) and over 40psi part throttle (hot) around 1500-2000rpm, its a sound engine. Of course listen for knocks and stuff too.


If it doesnt add up to those numbers keep looking.
Really the oil pressure problems Buicks have results either from excessive bearing wear or a worn out timing cover. My timing cover is fine and has all the new oil pump guts in it so if I do get this motor I'm just gonna clean it up pack the cavity with grease, and swap it over along with my new water pump. Regasket the motor, replace the rope rear main seal with a neoprene one I have, and put my redone heads and intake and carb on it as I've said before.
 
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