Performance Upgrades for a 307-9code...

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As far as swapping in a bigger engine goes, there is more to the story than most people tell you about.

Olds engines are hard to find, or at least much harder to find than Chevy engines. 403's were only used for a few years which can make them harder to find than 350's or maybe even 455's. Yeah, some people can trip over tons of Olds engines without looking, but I have yet to find an Olds engine for sale in my area, let alone anyhting in the junkyard that would have anyhting bigger than a 307. 403's are somewhat limited to how much you can bore it due to the siamesed cylinder walls like a Chevy 400. Bigger engines get less fuel mileage too, but if the 307 is out of tune it may not be getting the best mileage it can get (but it is definitely better than most if not all 455's out there for sure).


Right. In my area, Chevy's dominate everything. There's not a lot of Olds stuff running around, but the guy I bought my 442 from was a huge Olds guy, having two early 70s 442's and a 15th Anniversary Hurst. He also had a slew of parts, but he's 3 hours away one way. I haven't met any other Olds guys that live near me. I toyed with the idea of a 350 Rocket and all the OE brackets from the 307...but like I said, I want to keep it original so I'm willing to roll a 307.

The cost of a new engine is usually glossed over too. "You can get a bigger engine for less than the cost of a rebuild" is, for the most part, false. First, you have the cost of the new engine/core. Don't expect to get a used engine that is ready to drop in either, even if it is "freshly rebuilt". You can't really trust anybody anymore, and you don't know what they did to it. New engine+rebuild costs is NOT more than a rebuild itself unless you really know your stuff and have all the proper tools and space to do it. 307 parts can be found cheaper too since most people don't bother with them. You just have to search, like on eBay for example. There was a set of brand new Clevite .030 roller 307 pistons on there for $30 not long ago.

If I were to do an engine swap, I would start from scratch. I would buy a block and do it myself. I too have seen too many people get burned buying a "fresh" engine or a used motor out of Billy Bob's Z28.

Emissions/computer can be a problem too. You can swap the stuff over to the bigger small block engine, but if you hate the 307 that much, why would you put it's smog equipment on your new engine? Also, messing with all that stuff in the first place can cause problems.

Forgive me if I come sounding that I hate a 307, because I don't. 🙂 If I were to do a motor swap, the emissions junk isn't going back on. I don't want to take away from the originality of the vehicle, I like keeping them looking how they looked on the showroom floor when they were new. That's why I'm looking for small performance ups on the 9-code.

Like you said, "hollowing-out" the cat is a good idea. I'm not sure how it effects the drivability/emissions, because the 307 in my car is worn out (the previous owner obviously didn't change the oil much, if at all) which lead to a number of problems. Hollowing out the cat REALLY woke up the engine. It won't pass emissions tests though, especially if you have a decent amount of blow-by. I have a cat that I put back on for the testing which is promptly taken back off.

Cleaning out the cat really won't effect the drivability of the car, even with the emissions. I did this on both my 86 & 88 MCSS, and never had an issue. It did, however, improve the performance by waking the motor up a bit. Cats are just one more restriction. Lucky for me where I live we don't have emissions testing (yet). No blowby on this 307 either, heck the v/c and intake gaskets aren't even leaking!!

On the other hand, what do you consider performance? I would love to have a VIN 9 307, and plan on spending thousands to upgrade my VIN Y to H.O. spec when it gets rebuilt. 9.8 seconds to sixty and 15-16 sec.+ in the 1/4 is plenty fast for me, and I don't see why headers and true dual exhaust would hurt it either. I've been told the roller 307 is the smoothest, most reliable carbureted V8 around (almost as if it is a fuel injected engine).

Mainly I'm just looking to get a few more ponies out of it for fun. I like the idea of getting performance out of something that everyone else thinks is junk - present company forum members excluded :wink: If I were to line up, its gonna be stop light to stop light racing. I want to get it off the line with ease. So far from the info I've gathered, I'm interested in researching a new chip for the ECM. Can anyone spread more light on this? Good, bad, brand recommendations, bang for the buck? The 442 is definately not the fastest car I've had, but its quick for what it is. If it broke into the 14s that would be cool, but I'll never track this car (again, I'm too anal with it).

Thanks for all of your insight!!
 
86_cutlass said:
how would you go about removing stuff like the smog pump and stuff cause i already hollowed out my cat cause it was clogged and my car is still sluggish and crap i can barely get to 70 mph on the highway with the pedal floored

IMO, The best way to do it is remove everything off the front of the engine, then remove all the hoses, check valves, and pipes that go into the manifold. Find some pipe plugs that can take the place of the pipe fittings for your exhaust manifolds. You can use some universal rubber plugs for your air cleaner housing, or get a non emissions air cleaner. On my '86 MC, I pinched off the air tap tube down by the converter. On my '88 MCSS, I left everything in place on the engine, removed the belt from the AIR pump because it had locked up, and just hollowed out the cat.
 
zjchevy1 said:
86_cutlass said:
how would you go about removing stuff like the smog pump and stuff cause i already hollowed out my cat cause it was clogged and my car is still sluggish and crap i can barely get to 70 mph on the highway with the pedal floored

IMO, The best way to do it is remove everything off the front of the engine, then remove all the hoses, check valves, and pipes that go into the manifold. Find some pipe plugs that can take the place of the pipe fittings for your exhaust manifolds. You can use some universal rubber plugs for your air cleaner housing, or get a non emissions air cleaner. On my '86 MC, I pinched off the air tap tube down by the converter. On my '88 MCSS, I left everything in place on the engine, removed the belt from the AIR pump because it had locked up, and just hollowed out the cat.

so getting rid of the belt would stop it from working and free up some horses possibly.
 
I put a set of cheap headers and true dual exhaust with x-pipe on my vin 9 307 and it woke it up quite a bit.

Then I scattered the bottom end... :lol:
 
86_cutlass said:
zjchevy1 said:
86_cutlass said:
how would you go about removing stuff like the smog pump and stuff cause i already hollowed out my cat cause it was clogged and my car is still sluggish and crap i can barely get to 70 mph on the highway with the pedal floored

IMO, The best way to do it is remove everything off the front of the engine, then remove all the hoses, check valves, and pipes that go into the manifold. Find some pipe plugs that can take the place of the pipe fittings for your exhaust manifolds. You can use some universal rubber plugs for your air cleaner housing, or get a non emissions air cleaner. On my '86 MC, I pinched off the air tap tube down by the converter. On my '88 MCSS, I left everything in place on the engine, removed the belt from the AIR pump because it had locked up, and just hollowed out the cat.

so getting rid of the belt would stop it from working and free up some horses possibly.

Removing the belt will stop the AIR pump from operating, possibly freeing up hidden HP. You'll notice any gains at mid-range rpms. But don't expect it to be z06 Corvette material either, just a step up from stock.
 
Blake442 said:
I put a set of cheap headers and true dual exhaust with x-pipe on my vin 9 307 and it woke it up quite a bit.

Then I scattered the bottom end... :lol:

:shock: I've heard the 307's aren't a high rpm engine.... :lol:

For headers, can you use a stock port 350 Olds header on a 307?
 
I know Jet used to have a chip, I think, Thermomaster? Either way you want a chip to remove timing, way too much. You can run a header like Sanderson 1 5/8' shorties or the Thorton SBO dual manifolds. I would think those manifolds are only worth a handful of hp/tq but may fool more people. If you keep those 7A heads, they will need max porting or you will be very limited. Again 5A may have more potential. Only Olds guys will be able to tell the difference if you paint a 350 or 403 black.
 
olds307 and 403 said:
I know Jet used to have a chip, I think, Thermomaster? Either way you want a chip to remove timing, way too much. You can run a header like Sanderson 1 5/8' shorties or the Thorton SBO dual manifolds. I would think those manifolds are only worth a handful of hp/tq but may fool more people. If you keep those 7A heads, they will need max porting or you will be very limited. Again 5A may have more potential. Only Olds guys will be able to tell the difference if you paint a 350 or 403 black.

Here's my update:

I've found a company that spefically builds ECM chips for the vehicle in question. I believe the name of the company is Engine Performace Specialties? I'll double check when I get home. I also have a design for the exhaust system I want to install...My girlfriend's dad is a tool & dye operator and is going to build me a pair of mufflers that will fit in the stock mounting location. He built some for his F*** and they sound really good. I also ordered a Shift Kit from Transtar Industries for the 200r4, its time to stiffen up the gears a lotta bit. Other than a low-temp thermostat, I'm going to start with these bolt-on's and go from there. I'll keep everyone updated.

Thanks again for all of your knowledge, input, and expertise!
 
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