wear gloves and disposable sleeves, its good stuff but takes a week or two to wear off your skin. Ghoul's tips are really spot on. I finished doing the inside the bottom edge of my doors with this, dries rock solid and didn't have to top coat being its inside the door.
POR 15
- Thread starter wonderboy24
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Great tips, especially the butane trick. Gotta try that one. Anyway, once the can is open, the clock is ticking. If I am saving leftover, I use a sheet of plastic, like a baggie, between the lid and can so it won't fuse together. If you are using it over several days or weeks, after each use you can put the plastic sealed closed can in the freezer to retard the cure. It will not stop it, just stall it. Eventually an opened can will solidify.
Honestly,I have used it, and just don't think it's worth it. The price and pain in the *ss factor is just too much. It is very picky, requires following the instructions to the letter. You absolutely need to remove all previous coatings and buy the marine clean to go with it. It is actually best to have a bit of surface rust, as it is technically designed to bond with rust.
I would use a good epoxy primer, then lay down a strong top coat. POR15 makes a coating called Chassis Coat Black, that can be applied over primer and other coats. It isn't as tough as the POR15 Rust paint, but combined with epoxy, is more than enough. Chassis saver is another product. Even just a black epoxy by itself will hold up, but may as well put something over it.
I would use a good epoxy primer, then lay down a strong top coat. POR15 makes a coating called Chassis Coat Black, that can be applied over primer and other coats. It isn't as tough as the POR15 Rust paint, but combined with epoxy, is more than enough. Chassis saver is another product. Even just a black epoxy by itself will hold up, but may as well put something over it.
I have used it with less then expected results over the years. I use a product called Rust Bullet which is a much easier product to use and so far I have better longevity results and quality.
i ended up doing the POR 15 i ended up using a greaser call GONE the PREP AND READY and sanded the crap out of it to scuff it up.yes it was a pain in the butt,lot of prep for sure. i was wearing gloves until the gloves started sticking to the brush. then i took them off, big mistake lol my hands still have black on them, but the job is done installing the new carpet this weekend, here is the after photo
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I've used por15 a few times and always had great results. Recently I tried something similar called Dom16 that I picked up at my local paint shop. 1/2 the price of por15. I did both sides of the floors and a rearend with it and it actually seemed to flow a bit better with a brush as well as sprayed.
I used a product called "Defender II" by State Chemical; it had a watery consistency, but worked well. It dries clear, with a glossy finish. I did the whole underside of my car with it.
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