Just wondering if anyone has used it,and how you prep your metal.thought about using it on interior floor pans.
POR 15
- Thread starter wonderboy24
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That is a great spot to use it.wonderboy24 said:
I have used it all over on different vehicles, I did all my suspension parts on my Monte with it and it is rock hard when cured and holds up very well.
I use it a lot of times as an alternative to powdercoating and even though I brush it on it leaves no brush marks when cured and it works best on rough surfaces compared to new smooth ones.
I have also done quite a few floor pans on other cars and works great with minimal prep even on rust, basically get all the loose stuff off before brushing it on.
The only downside is if you use it on something that will be constantly exposed to UV rays then you have to put a top coat on it but most people use it for under carriage and floorboards top and bottom, suspension etc. which will not be exposed to the sun.
okay.i have seen where ppl used marie cleaner and something else before they painted the floor.but they also took it down to bare metal. dont really want to do that if i dont have to
I use the blue rust stuff that is normally recommended with it after I scuff the surface with about a 220 grit sandpaper. I have done the front of my frame, engine bay, and my 8.5 with it and its all holding up well.
the stuff i seen ppl ues you have to rinse it off with water after words,the blue stuff your talking about do you have to rise as well?
Yea you have to brush it on, wait about 15 minutes and then rinse it off. That's the only pain with it. I haven't had any luck putting POR15 down without using it. It just flakes off and peels.wonderboy24 said:
okay. your talking about the prep and ready. i was hoping not to have to do that but for it to work right i will. thanks for the info/help
I prefer Rustseal myself, invented by the same guys who invented POR15, just more advanced so they claim. But with any of these coatings you must use the prep, otherwise it won't turn out too well.
I have used it on just about every car project I have done, great stuff.
The marine clean/metal ready is basically an de-greaser/acid system to pit the surface of the metal. Por15 doesn’t like sticking to smooth sheet metal, even 220 is a little fine (better than nothing but 100-80 range would be better).
I have had the best luck with it by either having the area sand blasted first, scuff it with 100-80 grit, or just knock off the loose paint/rust scale with a wire brush and slap it on (naturally after a good degreasing, that is a must!).
Keep in mind your floors have seen 30 years of abuse, so if the paint has sealed it well enough to resist rust to this point it will probably be good for another 10 years of DD or a life time of garage storage.
Few tips on the stuff that most don’t point out in their builds. Sorry, very wordy and Im not a professional writer so it may be hard to follow at times. I have been working with this stuff for about 12 years now so these are just things that I have had success with..
- This stuff stains your skin for weeks, wear long sleeves and latex gloves
- There is no good way to clean out a paint brush after using it so buy allot of disposable ones
- This stuff has nasty carcinogens in it, wear a respirator (not just a drywall dust mask) in a well ventilated area
- It will fuse the can shut and cure in the can very easily, If you buy a good size quantity of it buy an extra empty paint can, a few disposable painters cups and a dollar store turkey baster (stay with me here). You don’t want to dip the paint directly from the can, if rust dirt or debris get into it the paint can go bad. Also If you get any paint on the lip of the can it very well could fuse the can shut and you will destroy it trying to get it open next time (the old trick of punching holes in the lip to let the paint drain back into the can will most likely result in air getting in and curing in the can). Take the turkey baster, transfer paint to your working cup, re-fill cup if needed.
- As pointed out yes it will get ashy and bleach out when exposed to light. Por15 now makes a Uv resistant clear coat but regular clear will work
- You can paint over it but you have a very small window of opportunity. You either have to wait till it its fully cured than scuff it with 150 (in some places will scratch thru so this isn’t great solution) the alternative is tricky but worth the effort. Wait till it is tacky to the touch (it dries really slow so usually a half a day or so, keep on top of it, check it every few hours). With your clear coat or primer apply a very light mist coat (basically a "speckle" coat), let it cure for about 15 min, then another light mist coat, then wait 150 min repeat until you have full light coverage. Let it sit like this over night. Next morning you can lay down medium to heavy coats... This is a PITA yes, but the reason you have to be cautious with this is the por 15 will pool in low areas and naturally will take longer to cure in those pooled areas than in the thin areas. It will also cure slower than any primer or clear coat that you can put on it, if you go too thick with your primer or clear it will cure on the surface of the por15, then when the por15 cures it will pull the clear or primer apart and cause a crackle effect.
- If you are planning to not use it for a few months before putting the lid on the can, get yourself a butane lighter and hold it over the open can and let the butane vent from the lighter but don’t light it.... Butane is heavier than air so the gas will settle into the paint can and displace the air out of it. Pop the lid on it and store it upside down in a place that you don’t mind if it leaks. This will prevent any air from getting in and the paint will last longer.
- Lastly, plan ahead, it will drip off your part (it’s very thin and dries very slow) If you care about the floor of your garage lay down some plastic or cardboard under it. If you are painting individual parts suspend them from something with wire or a coat hanger or something. If you paint a part and set it down on cardboard or plastic that cardboard or plastic will be stuck to that part for the rest of its life...
The marine clean/metal ready is basically an de-greaser/acid system to pit the surface of the metal. Por15 doesn’t like sticking to smooth sheet metal, even 220 is a little fine (better than nothing but 100-80 range would be better).
I have had the best luck with it by either having the area sand blasted first, scuff it with 100-80 grit, or just knock off the loose paint/rust scale with a wire brush and slap it on (naturally after a good degreasing, that is a must!).
Keep in mind your floors have seen 30 years of abuse, so if the paint has sealed it well enough to resist rust to this point it will probably be good for another 10 years of DD or a life time of garage storage.
Few tips on the stuff that most don’t point out in their builds. Sorry, very wordy and Im not a professional writer so it may be hard to follow at times. I have been working with this stuff for about 12 years now so these are just things that I have had success with..
- This stuff stains your skin for weeks, wear long sleeves and latex gloves
- There is no good way to clean out a paint brush after using it so buy allot of disposable ones
- This stuff has nasty carcinogens in it, wear a respirator (not just a drywall dust mask) in a well ventilated area
- It will fuse the can shut and cure in the can very easily, If you buy a good size quantity of it buy an extra empty paint can, a few disposable painters cups and a dollar store turkey baster (stay with me here). You don’t want to dip the paint directly from the can, if rust dirt or debris get into it the paint can go bad. Also If you get any paint on the lip of the can it very well could fuse the can shut and you will destroy it trying to get it open next time (the old trick of punching holes in the lip to let the paint drain back into the can will most likely result in air getting in and curing in the can). Take the turkey baster, transfer paint to your working cup, re-fill cup if needed.
- As pointed out yes it will get ashy and bleach out when exposed to light. Por15 now makes a Uv resistant clear coat but regular clear will work
- You can paint over it but you have a very small window of opportunity. You either have to wait till it its fully cured than scuff it with 150 (in some places will scratch thru so this isn’t great solution) the alternative is tricky but worth the effort. Wait till it is tacky to the touch (it dries really slow so usually a half a day or so, keep on top of it, check it every few hours). With your clear coat or primer apply a very light mist coat (basically a "speckle" coat), let it cure for about 15 min, then another light mist coat, then wait 150 min repeat until you have full light coverage. Let it sit like this over night. Next morning you can lay down medium to heavy coats... This is a PITA yes, but the reason you have to be cautious with this is the por 15 will pool in low areas and naturally will take longer to cure in those pooled areas than in the thin areas. It will also cure slower than any primer or clear coat that you can put on it, if you go too thick with your primer or clear it will cure on the surface of the por15, then when the por15 cures it will pull the clear or primer apart and cause a crackle effect.
- If you are planning to not use it for a few months before putting the lid on the can, get yourself a butane lighter and hold it over the open can and let the butane vent from the lighter but don’t light it.... Butane is heavier than air so the gas will settle into the paint can and displace the air out of it. Pop the lid on it and store it upside down in a place that you don’t mind if it leaks. This will prevent any air from getting in and the paint will last longer.
- Lastly, plan ahead, it will drip off your part (it’s very thin and dries very slow) If you care about the floor of your garage lay down some plastic or cardboard under it. If you are painting individual parts suspend them from something with wire or a coat hanger or something. If you paint a part and set it down on cardboard or plastic that cardboard or plastic will be stuck to that part for the rest of its life...
liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
If prepped right I have had good luck with it. Blasting, sanding, cleaning then the marine clean. I have used the UV top coat, and followed the instructions to a T. My Brown Malibu wagon had the front frame rails and rad support done, along with the suspension. Held up great except for where the jack chipped the coating, and then the metal rusted and the coating lifted.
I have seen people use it on new steel, smooth, not real rough. The metal rusted underneath and the coating lifted. (this was grey, so you could SEE the rust).
If you are having the part sandblasted, I would use something else. Old rusty metal it seems to stick well to.
Alot of good tips here, I personally bought all the prep products as a kit and used everything that was recommended.
I have seen people use it on new steel, smooth, not real rough. The metal rusted underneath and the coating lifted. (this was grey, so you could SEE the rust).
If you are having the part sandblasted, I would use something else. Old rusty metal it seems to stick well to.
Alot of good tips here, I personally bought all the prep products as a kit and used everything that was recommended.
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