Hi Guys Im new to the forum. I actually had my favorite car ever about 25yrs ago. (Dam I feel old saying that. lol) It was a 79 Malibu 2 door. I did alot of racing and hanging out with that. Long story short, (Ill post a separate thread introducing my self better with pics and all soon). Anyway I want a good posi rear with like 342 or 373. Grandnational rears are hard to get and pricey for something that has no type of guarantee. Ive been reading threads about all kinds of different rears and the challenges of getting them to work. Now one of the biggest issue with like camaro rears and s10 rears is the issue with welding to cast iron. I am a Matco Tool Dealer and I have a professional welding shop on my run. So I asked my buddy Bill about welding to cast Iron and he told me that he could do it. If I bought the kit they sell with all the brackets, He told me he has the rods for welding steel to cast iron. He went on to assure me I would brake the bracket itself, the drive shaft or internals before I broke those welds. I have to say I was excited to hear that but figured I would mention it to you guys that have been in the game. Thanks and any info will be greatly appreciated.
Posi Rear
- Thread starter Dinosport
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Welcome to the forum.
Which rear end have you decided to use? It sounds like Bill is the go-to guy to get your brackets, perches, etc. welded on.
Have you measured either of these rears to make sure they're close to what you need?
Let us know how you make out with your project...some pics would be nice as well. 😉
Which rear end have you decided to use? It sounds like Bill is the go-to guy to get your brackets, perches, etc. welded on.
Have you measured either of these rears to make sure they're close to what you need?
Let us know how you make out with your project...some pics would be nice as well. 😉
I always wondered if I could make a ring that matched the differential cover and add 'ears' to the top. Sandwich between the cover and axle face. Sounds simpler than welding to to cast iron.
Hi guys thanks for the replies. I havent decided on what rear yet. I know I want a 342 or 373 posi. Everytime I come across a good deal I find out the rear doesnt fit. The length is always an issue. If the rear is too wide i think thats easy fix for me to narrow and just get axles, If its too short that may be different. The issue I look for is mounting. Right now I have a guy selling me an s10 blazer 5speed. 4wheel drive. Has an 8.5 with 373gears and disc brakes. But hey an 8.5 rear, 373 gears and disc brakes all in one package and all he wants is 400bucks for the whole truck as a parts truck. Im really considering it as long as I can make the rear fit. I think we can use the front disk brakes too right?
I would think the length of the S10 rear would be close. It would also be a leaf spring rear if I'm not mistaken. Again, you'd have to measure them both to make a final conclusion.
I am not one that would typically turn away from doing any kind of fabrication but I personally would just buy a direct bolt in housing either a 12 bolt or a 9" that way the housing is new, the axle tubes are stronger and you don't have weld cast iron or make a jig to get all the control arm mounts at the correct angle plus it will already be the correct width for a Gbody and besides being stronger there are more carrier and gear options.
Saving money is great but for me my time is also worth money.
Saving money is great but for me my time is also worth money.
I agree, all I had to do was bolt my S60 in and I shouldn't have to mess with it again. I saw people asking what I paid for GN 8.5s with limited mods.
I guess your right, I was thinking along the route of just buying a grand national diff. Theres one on craigslist for 1200. near here. Im only considering the s10 rear because I can grab it dirt cheap, its an 8.5 posi with 373 gears, has the disk brakes already and the actual work to make it fit will not be much more than a few small favors. Selling tools to bunch of car junkies has huge advantages at times like these. lol
I have seen plenty of attempted welds on cast iron and I will agree that the weld will always be stronger than the cast iron it is welded to since cast iron likes to pull in towards the weld causing a hairline fracture outside of the weld area, there is a whole heating and cooling process that has to be strictly followed or the weld could fail it can be done but anyone that thinks it is a simple process probably does not have enough experience.
Remember this is a part that will see constant movement and torque applied to it and if the mounts are not oriented perfectly this will magnify the possibility of an issue.
If this was as simple and safe as you would like it to be everyone would do this and there is a reason why people don't, I would say save your money on something else and spent the extra here.
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