Possible new GN owner
- Thread starter gm2376
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I would ask if the engine has been worked on. Another area to look at is were the roof panel and quarter panel meet, if you see a hair line crack it has been driven hard body flex. I lot of them were repainted in that area back then under warranty until GM put a stop to it. Steering column and wheel look strange too me, looks to be painted.
Aside for basic rust checking (frame horns, look for little nipple like bumps in the trunk indicating rear bushing mounts are rotted away causing the bolts to smack the trunk floor), like under the wheel wells, knocking around (gently), look at the bumper shocks and see if they're leaking or are collapsed, the RPO sticker can be faked. But it's rare that people go through that much trouble. The sticker on the hvac box I think is turbo specific. Should have an 8.5 rear as said. 7.5 has fangs on the bottom of the cover and the cover is more square shaped, the 8.5 cover is more round and has two square corners underneath it. It should have a rear sway bar, thicker (dont remember measurement maybe 1.25"?) front sway bar. Posi was optional, as was the gear ratio I think. afaik only 2 ratios for a g body with the 8.5 were 3.73 and 3.42. it should have a brf 2004r trans. look for the yellow tag on the passenger side of the tailshaft on the trans. Do as much looking as you can, you are the potential buyer after all. One of the things that pisses me off the most when looking at cars is the owners getting irritated with how much you're looking it over.
Aggressive ?
What’s the asking price?
Increase the limit on your credit card. If you’re wise, it’s gonna get a workout.
What’s the asking price?
Increase the limit on your credit card. If you’re wise, it’s gonna get a workout.
These G bodies rust out in specific areas first. Get under the car and really check it out. The bottom edge of the door is probably the best indication of what the rest of the body is like. Check the floors, the trunk, and the frame, especially the rear part of the frame. The typical problem with these cars is the poor quality factory paint and clear coat.
I would want a GN that is as stock as possible. Keep and store anything removed (that isn't rusted junk). That way it will retain its future value if/when you sell it.
Style-wise, I think Grand Nationals are among the best of what GM had to offer in the 80's. Especially with the t-tops. Investment-wise, they are terrific. ... 50k miles and relatively stock, GN's are around $30k+/-.
I would want a GN that is as stock as possible. Keep and store anything removed (that isn't rusted junk). That way it will retain its future value if/when you sell it.
Style-wise, I think Grand Nationals are among the best of what GM had to offer in the 80's. Especially with the t-tops. Investment-wise, they are terrific. ... 50k miles and relatively stock, GN's are around $30k+/-.
I think you've got a good bit to go on here to start making a decision.
There's also enough on the car I'd at least try asking for reg/inspection records to document the 50k as being true...I've got a 160k, mostly summer driven, 1983 that was well cared for/garaged and looks similar condition wise, that pallex cloth on the seats wore well. Hard to saw with just a couple pics, but, it's surprising a 50k car doesn't keep things like original floor mats, underhood components, etc. (Oh, and carfax? My 376k mile suburban shows up as 87k original miles, and that regal shows I think around 26k. They're just not good for older cars)
The speedo mod, fuel pressure regulator, makes me wonder what else may have been more kidded before returning to stock. Two things, neither of which are uncommon or necessarily bad, to check are if a hot wire kit was added to the gas tank which is usually the sign of upgraded fuel pump (yes, improved drivability but not usually bothered with unless running bigger injectors/turbo/higher boost) and the waste gate rod on the turbo - in Stock form the rod is NOT adjustable, but a common mod is to cut the rod and use fitting to make it adjustable.
If the records don't show a timing chain upgrade, and you plan on driving it much, that's the first thing I'd do even before the wheels. The nylon teeth over steel gear just ask to break with age and heat, not a problem you want with it jumping time.
If the engine has been rebuilt, well, make sure it was done reputable - buick engines built by a chevy guy just don't last, they're a different animal.
Column/wheels shade may be off is they tried replacing a worn/cracked steering wheel with recovered/repop and paint didn't match so they redid both.
Original paint on this would be lacquer. If you see signs of clearcoat, it's a respray. Again, not necessarily bad, but, take into account on value.
There's also enough on the car I'd at least try asking for reg/inspection records to document the 50k as being true...I've got a 160k, mostly summer driven, 1983 that was well cared for/garaged and looks similar condition wise, that pallex cloth on the seats wore well. Hard to saw with just a couple pics, but, it's surprising a 50k car doesn't keep things like original floor mats, underhood components, etc. (Oh, and carfax? My 376k mile suburban shows up as 87k original miles, and that regal shows I think around 26k. They're just not good for older cars)
The speedo mod, fuel pressure regulator, makes me wonder what else may have been more kidded before returning to stock. Two things, neither of which are uncommon or necessarily bad, to check are if a hot wire kit was added to the gas tank which is usually the sign of upgraded fuel pump (yes, improved drivability but not usually bothered with unless running bigger injectors/turbo/higher boost) and the waste gate rod on the turbo - in Stock form the rod is NOT adjustable, but a common mod is to cut the rod and use fitting to make it adjustable.
If the records don't show a timing chain upgrade, and you plan on driving it much, that's the first thing I'd do even before the wheels. The nylon teeth over steel gear just ask to break with age and heat, not a problem you want with it jumping time.
If the engine has been rebuilt, well, make sure it was done reputable - buick engines built by a chevy guy just don't last, they're a different animal.
Column/wheels shade may be off is they tried replacing a worn/cracked steering wheel with recovered/repop and paint didn't match so they redid both.
Original paint on this would be lacquer. If you see signs of clearcoat, it's a respray. Again, not necessarily bad, but, take into account on value.
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