HELP Power door locks wiring pictures?

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UC645

Royal Smart Person
Apr 20, 2020
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Kittanning, Pa
Does anyone happen to have pictures of how the factory door locks are wired into the fuse block? For some reason I had wired both the switches and the main power to the lock relay to the accessory junction block under the cowl.

I’m afraid I may have blown something other than a fuse, since I haven’t found any bad ones. Do the factory circuit breakers make a sort of snapping sound when they trip?
 
Does anyone happen to have pictures of how the factory door locks are wired into the fuse block? For some reason I had wired both the switches and the main power to the lock relay to the accessory junction block under the cowl.

I’m afraid I may have blown something other than a fuse, since I haven’t found any bad ones. Do the factory circuit breakers make a sort of snapping sound when they trip?
Power should go through a power relay. Check online and see if you can find the diagram for your year/model car.
 
Here's some quick pics of my harness using a spare dash harness to sho how everything goes.

Here's the black orange wire in it's home in the fusebox under the needed 30 amp circuit breaker.
20220802_201700.jpg


Here's the jumper (C353G) in C353 junction block with the orange/black(C353H) in the harness that goes the lock relay. Along with it is the courtesy light connector (C353A) that supplies power to the lock switches.
20220802_201727.jpg


This is the four cavity Packcon conector that piccy backs the front to rear harness off the fuse box.
20220802_201745.jpg


This is just everything loose to show the connectors.
20220802_201924.jpg
 
Here's some quick pics of my harness using a spare dash harness to sho how everything goes.

Here's the black orange wire in it's home in the fusebox under the needed 30 amp circuit breaker.
View attachment 203905

Here's the jumper (C353G) in C353 junction block with the orange/black(C353H) in the harness that goes the lock relay. Along with it is the courtesy light connector (C353A) that supplies power to the lock switches.
View attachment 203906

This is the four cavity Packcon conector that piccy backs the front to rear harness off the fuse box.
View attachment 203907

This is just everything loose to show the connectors.
View attachment 203908
I think I’m missing the harness that plugs into the fuse panel. There is a separate single Packard style connector running off the power window harness, could I wire the lock relay main power into that? Everything is grounded properly, but at the time I only had one actuator hooked up at the time I tested it.
And while I’m at it, any idea what the metal canister with the single orange wire running to it is? I had one on the GP dash, and it broke off of the wire.
 
I think I’m missing the harness that plugs into the fuse panel. There is a separate single Packard style connector running off the power window harness, could I wire the lock relay main power into that? Everything is grounded properly, but at the time I only had one actuator hooked up at the time I tested it.
And while I’m at it, any idea what the metal canister with the single orange wire running to it is? I had one on the GP dash, and it broke off of the wire.
It is possible but to get power from the circuit breaker you'll need one of those red connector & proper width terminal. You Might be able to get a lead with the red connector to splice in from a B-body.
 
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I think I’m missing the harness that plugs into the fuse panel. There is a separate single Packard style connector running off the power window harness, could I wire the lock relay main power into that? Everything is grounded properly, but at the time I only had one actuator hooked up at the ti
It is possible but to get power from the circuit breaker you'll need one of those red connector & proper width terminal. You Might be able to get a lead with the red connector to splice in from a B-body.
The only B-body I’m aware of is the Roadmaster at Pick A Part, but I have a feeling that one’s too new to have the right connector. I wonder if square body S-10s or 3rd gen f bodies would have the right ones, there’s a ton of those out there.
That's a filter capacitor.
Is it necessary for anything or can I run without it?
 
It's to remove noise in the radio. Ignition noise in the point distributor days, alternator noise, blower motor noise etc.

If the output of the stereo is clean don't worry about it. You will not find one in that mounting configuration anyway these have been discontinued a long time now.

Edited to add: most of this noise suppression stuff on our cars is for AM radio.
 
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The only B-body I’m aware of is the Roadmaster at Pick A Part, but I have a feeling that one’s too new to have the right connector. I wonder if square body S-10s or 3rd gen f bodies would have the right ones, there’s a ton of those out there.

Is it necessary for anything or can I run without it?
It should be possible most fuseboxes that are simular to ours could/should have a wire that can work. So maybe a FWD A, J, X, N, C/K, G van might have something too. Then that filter is used if there's any static noise in the radio.
 
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The only B-body I’m aware of is the Roadmaster at Pick A Part, but I have a feeling that one’s too new to have the right connector. I wonder if square body S-10s or 3rd gen f bodies would have the right ones, there’s a ton of those out there.

Is it necessary for anything or can I run without it?
So young man, will this be of any use? It's a piggyback one to allow another one to plug in but still will work.
20220803_185651.jpg

Let me know since I'm still holding a FTP high-low switch if you want it.
 
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