Power Windows

[RustBucket]

Do the window motors get slow before they completely go out or do they just go from working to not working when they go out? My window is extremely slow and this is how it's been since I bought the elky (1981) thanks yal God bless.

 

[88AZSS]

If theyre the originals then its likely they're on their way out. 37 years of use is a lot for those motors. There is a few different solutions, some that work well together. The motors themselves can be replaced relatively cheap if you do it yourself but the main problem is usually the power side of things. Run a relay set up from LMC Truck that way the power doesn't go through the switch but the relay instead. Make sure your tracks are greased well too, that could cause problems. I've also heard of people swapping motors from early 70's Monte Carlos, Cutlass', etc, which were apparently stronger.

 

[RustBucket]

please tell me about the power/relay thing.

 

[UNGN]

Fast power Windows Thread

With DC electric motors, Voltage = Speed. The higher the voltage provided to the motor, the faster the speed.

Resistance lowers the voltage to the motors. More amps allows the voltage not to drop under load, but resistance free voltage is the key.

The LMC truck kit takes 12V directly from the battery, instead of through a bunch of 30 year old wires and switch contacts, decreasing the resistance and increasing the voltage the motors see.

You may need new motors, but more voltage to the old motors should speed them up significantly. If it doesn't, then get new motors.

 

[TURNA]

Sometimes it is the switch that is the problem.

You can also take off your door panels and relube the window tracks.and rollers

 

[Mike T]

I had a 76 Grand Prix back in the day. The car was about 10 years old but in excellent condition and well cared for. One of the few issues with the car was that the drivers power window took 15 +/- seconds to up and 12 seconds to roll down and the passenger window only took 6 +/-. Drove me crazy, so I bought a motor and changed it. Picked up four whole seconds on the driver side roll up/down. Still not good. Took the door apart and my little brother (6'5"/250lbs) ran his finger on the lubed parts of the lifting arms. It was like dried candle wax from all of the grit that had been accumulated in the factory lube. Cleaned as much of the crap as I could with a scraper, moving the window up and down to get as much as possible and then used about a quart of diesel and a whole can of brake part cleaner to get it ready for new lube. Tried a couple of different lubes that wouldn't stay where I put em and ended up using axle grease, sparingly. (That crap gets everywhere if you use too much) Drivers side went went down in four seconds and up in six. NEXT!!

 

[foxtrot]

The relay solution (there are a few threads here that outline this solution) is the most eloquent solution but requires rewiring. The next best solution is a 'combo platter' of what's mentioned above, which includes new replacement motors along with cleaning out the tracks. There is also an add-on solution which includes wiring a DC-DC power supply in-line with the window motor, this will drive a higher voltage to the window motor but I'm not to familiar with it's tradeoffs (eg: safety & reliability of the window motor operating at the higher voltage).

 

[1KWIKSIX]

Window Turbo from Pro Race Engineering will fix your problem. It's plug N play.
Fixed mine and is easy peasy to install

https://proraceeng.com/wt140-window-turbo/

 

[pontiacgp]

Window Turbo from Pro Race Engineering will fix your problem. It's plug N play.
Fixed mine and is easy peasy to install

https://proraceeng.com/wt140-window-turbo/

that is $174.90, I sped up mine with relays and under $20

 

[RustBucket]

that is $174.90, I sped up mine with relays and under $20

do you have a schematic for this? thanks.