Power windows

[fleming442]

You can also wire in relays with an independent power feed off the main ignition circuit to create a cheaper "window turbo/racer/thingy". However, the switches must be correct working order for it to work. It's on my to-do list, one of these days....

 

[88AZSS]

You can also wire in relays with an independent power feed off the main ignition circuit to create a cheaper "window turbo/racer/thingy". However, the switches must be correct working order for it to work. It's on my to-do list, one of these days....

I did this recently and the difference is night and day.

As for OP's issue, I agree with checking all wiring, ESPECIALLY in the areas around the door hinges. Because the drivers side works I'm leaning towards the issue being towards the passengers side. Switch would be first on the list after checking all wiring is good. Another thing to look for is how well the wiring is touching the actual switch. The little harness connector that the switches plug in to are flimsy and after 30+ years they fall apart and the wiring gets loose inside. Let us know what you find out.

 

[69hurstolds]

69hurstolds, Now that I'm trying to adopt your rule, your breaking it yet again... f it I'll jump in

Ah, yes, forgot to look at the count. I usually do, but I missed it this time. meh, maybe someone else could use the info, too.

 

[fleming442]

I did this recently and the difference is night and day.

As for OP's issue, I agree with checking all wiring, ESPECIALLY in the areas around the door hinges. Because the drivers side works I'm leaning towards the issue being towards the passengers side. Switch would be first on the list after checking all wiring is good. Another thing to look for is how well the wiring is touching the actual switch. The little harness connector that the switches plug in to are flimsy and after 30+ years they fall apart and the wiring gets loose inside. Let us know what you find out.

Got a diagram?

 

[88AZSS]

Got a diagram?

I followed UNGN's directions here. Post 43 in this thread:

Fast Power Windows?

Any pics of the install in your car........ All I have is this picture from my phone. I just followed the LMC video, but I already have a junction box on the fenderwell for my rally computer, Ford style starter solenoid, etc, so I didn't need to go to the battery.

gbodyforum.com

He used the LMC kit as well which is already partially wired up. If you use that kit its very simple. It can be replicated easily with your own relays and such but I didn't take a good look at it to see how exactly. I just installed as he wrote out in that post and it worked perfectly. Highly recommended upgrade along with new motors and grease on the tracks.

 

[69hurstolds]

I think before we go all relay and stuff on this job, the main thing is to get it to work. He can worry about speeding things up later. Hopefully we'll hear back if whatever worked.

Of course, I probably should post the wiring diagram. It's for an 87 Cutlass from the CSM, but 86 should be the same.

 

[QuintLee92]

that relay is for the power door locks, there is no relay for the power windows.

A/G BODY WIRING DIAGRAMS - MalibuRacing.com

Special thanks to Cliff (AKA 81classic) for all the diagrams!

maliburacing.com

Any picture of the actually wiring connected to the switches I can’t under the power window diagram . Or could u explain

Unfortunately, unless the CSM is wrong, the wiring is a little different on your 86 than the Malibu wiring diagram.

If BOTH passenger side switches are not operating the pass window, my bet is a bad PASSENGER SIDE SWITCH. Secondly, you may have a wire or two hosed up as well. This is first blush. I could be wrong. It's unusual, but BOTH switches are usually not bad at the same time.

Remove your passenger's side window switch and unplug it from it's little flat connector. You'll also need a voltmeter to check for line voltage (12V).

Here's the rub. You can have a perfectly good driver side power window switch for the passenger side, but the way they wire it in, it goes THROUGH the passenger door switch. There should be 5 wires on the passenger side connector. PINK hot wire coming in, a blue/white stripe wire and tan wire coming from the driver side passenger control switch, and the two wires, blue and brown, going to the window motor.

While you're at the passenger door with switch removed, check your pink wire at the switch plug to see if it's getting voltage. It should be hot in ignition on/running. There's also a blue with white stripe (UP) and tan (DWN) wire going to the passenger side window switch. FROM that switch, you have a blue (UP) and brown (DWN) wire going to the motor.

Ok, back to the blue/white (UP) wire connection and tan (DWN) wire connection. With ignition ON or car running, check voltage by operating the passenger window switch on the driver door. You should see voltage at those aforementioned wires in the positions they correlate to. If you don't see voltage, then something is amiss from the driver door switch to the passenger side switch.

Here's an OPTION you can try if you have power to the blue/white and tan wires- using a jumper wire, jump the blue/white to the blue wire terminal ONLY and see if the motor tries to go up. Conversely, try jumping the tan to the brown terminals with the driver side passenger window switch in DWN and see if the motor rolls the window down. If this check is satisfactory, it's your passenger side switch causing you issues. It could be the terminals dirty, or loose prongs, or possible garbage/corrosion inside the switch. If you know how to take them apart, great. If you don't, it's ok. Replacement switches are fairly cheap. WHICH style of door panel do you have? The Salon/442 style, or the Supreme style? (Half vinyl/half cloth with vertical pull handle)

Note: Your passenger side switch is powered independently of the driver side, so if you're switch is good, the driver side switch condition has no effect.

 

[69hurstolds]

WTF? Did you take the wires out of the plastic plug or was it like this?

 

[QuintLee92]

WTF? Did you take the wires out of the plastic plug or was it like this?

No already like this I tried moving the blue-white wire to the driver side blue wire on the driver switch in the photo and the passenger door switch goes up but not down on the pass door but not from the driver door switch ..idk

 

[69hurstolds]

Odd it has a ground wire on passenger switch, but...maybe 86's did? I dunno. Did you put the blue/white wire on the blue wire like that?

Without the plastic separator, you run the risk of touching metal or other wires where you don't want to.

BUT....if you take the blue/white and put it back (you were bypassing the passenger side switch for the UP position), you could jumper the tan wire to the brown wire on the passengers side switch, then using the master switch on the driver door panel, try to lower the passenger window. If that works, then it's likely your passenger side switch is the issue.