PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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Looks like it's been 3 weeks since an update. The 408 has a new home... right between the frame rails of my 78 Cutlass Salon 
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This freed up a ton of room in the shop, and gave me a chance to clean up, and get organized again.
Got the new stainless governor cover with o-ring and clip. Since I will be running a GPS speedometer, I found a clear cap at Home Depot to protect the speedo threads and keep road grime out of there.
I've received a few more parts over the last couple weeks.
Nerw transmission lines from Inline Tube.
Got some aluminum goodies for under the hood - radiator overflow tank, and radiator top plate ( got new rubber isolators, too 👍 ).
I met MalibuDave from Manualbrakes.com yesterday morning. I went to his shop and picked up the manual brake conversion kit. Mopar-style tandem master cylinder, aluminum mounting plate with a really nice (thick) gasket, a really nice quality adjustable push rod assembly, and hardware. It was nice to meet another GBodyforum Member, and a knowledgeable brake guy from my hometown. ( I cleaned the master cylinder reservoir )
Today, I received these NOS door weatherstrips (circa 1992) that I purchased from a Forum Member. Happy to have these. Hoping for a nice fit. Thanks JimmyCamino !
Still waiting on my EFI in-tank fuel pump module from Holley. They pushed back the delivery date again... Obviously, I don't need it at this point, but they have had my money for 10 weeks.
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This freed up a ton of room in the shop, and gave me a chance to clean up, and get organized again.
Got the new stainless governor cover with o-ring and clip. Since I will be running a GPS speedometer, I found a clear cap at Home Depot to protect the speedo threads and keep road grime out of there.
I've received a few more parts over the last couple weeks.
Nerw transmission lines from Inline Tube.
Got some aluminum goodies for under the hood - radiator overflow tank, and radiator top plate ( got new rubber isolators, too 👍 ).
I met MalibuDave from Manualbrakes.com yesterday morning. I went to his shop and picked up the manual brake conversion kit. Mopar-style tandem master cylinder, aluminum mounting plate with a really nice (thick) gasket, a really nice quality adjustable push rod assembly, and hardware. It was nice to meet another GBodyforum Member, and a knowledgeable brake guy from my hometown. ( I cleaned the master cylinder reservoir )
Today, I received these NOS door weatherstrips (circa 1992) that I purchased from a Forum Member. Happy to have these. Hoping for a nice fit. Thanks JimmyCamino !
Still waiting on my EFI in-tank fuel pump module from Holley. They pushed back the delivery date again... Obviously, I don't need it at this point, but they have had my money for 10 weeks.
A few more items for the Salon.
With the outrageous price of reproduction seat belts for our cars, I thought I would try the Jeg's universal 3-point seat belts. I had read a few reviews that were positive, and for the price of $50 each, I had to try them. The (2) main differences are the sleeve/cover on the buckle is designed a little different. (obviously, there is no GM logo), and the gold mounting tab is shorter than the flat bar mounting tab that is factory on our cars. Other than these differences, these look to be well made. I will bolt one on here soon to check fitment. I will post pics.
I decided to upgrade and replace the front rotors. I had originally purchased some close out Bendix stock replacement rotors from RockAuto, but they have already started to rust inside the vane area from just sitting in the shop. I bought some Stop Tech slotted & coated rotors. These definitely look better, and hopefully will not rust.
I bought some Killmat from the Damages Dept at my employer. The box was torn... And also a Noico steel roller from the Damages Dept. Killmat has good reviews, so I couldn't pass it up.
I bought a 100 pc. interior screw kit. I have all of the originals, but as you guys already know, they get discolored and corroded with age.
I bought this rear seat brace kit from a forum member. I will give them a fresh coat of paint.
I know have every brace ( factory & aftermarket ) for the car - radiator cross braces, GP front frame brace, jounce bars, fender to core support braces, Monte cowl to core support braces, Jeg's tubular/dual exhaust crossmember, Hotchkis rear control arm braces, UMI rear shock tower brace, Drawtite rear frame brace ( hitch ). 🤣
I also had seen the condenser threads posted here recently, and decided to go ahead and get one while I could.
It seems to be well made. I'll be on the lookout for some testimony from the other members who bought theirs. Hoping for good fitment, and no issues.
And lastly, a few finishing items for the Stealth throttle body. I tried to use the factory throttle stud, and kickdown stud from the original 260 - 2 barrel, but they were pressed onto the throttle linkage plate, and could not be removed. I also got a kickdown cable bracket, as it did not come with my aluminum throttle cable bracket.
With the outrageous price of reproduction seat belts for our cars, I thought I would try the Jeg's universal 3-point seat belts. I had read a few reviews that were positive, and for the price of $50 each, I had to try them. The (2) main differences are the sleeve/cover on the buckle is designed a little different. (obviously, there is no GM logo), and the gold mounting tab is shorter than the flat bar mounting tab that is factory on our cars. Other than these differences, these look to be well made. I will bolt one on here soon to check fitment. I will post pics.
I decided to upgrade and replace the front rotors. I had originally purchased some close out Bendix stock replacement rotors from RockAuto, but they have already started to rust inside the vane area from just sitting in the shop. I bought some Stop Tech slotted & coated rotors. These definitely look better, and hopefully will not rust.
I bought some Killmat from the Damages Dept at my employer. The box was torn... And also a Noico steel roller from the Damages Dept. Killmat has good reviews, so I couldn't pass it up.
I bought a 100 pc. interior screw kit. I have all of the originals, but as you guys already know, they get discolored and corroded with age.
I bought this rear seat brace kit from a forum member. I will give them a fresh coat of paint.
I know have every brace ( factory & aftermarket ) for the car - radiator cross braces, GP front frame brace, jounce bars, fender to core support braces, Monte cowl to core support braces, Jeg's tubular/dual exhaust crossmember, Hotchkis rear control arm braces, UMI rear shock tower brace, Drawtite rear frame brace ( hitch ). 🤣
I also had seen the condenser threads posted here recently, and decided to go ahead and get one while I could.
It seems to be well made. I'll be on the lookout for some testimony from the other members who bought theirs. Hoping for good fitment, and no issues.
And lastly, a few finishing items for the Stealth throttle body. I tried to use the factory throttle stud, and kickdown stud from the original 260 - 2 barrel, but they were pressed onto the throttle linkage plate, and could not be removed. I also got a kickdown cable bracket, as it did not come with my aluminum throttle cable bracket.
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Just noticed your "temp sensor" on the corner of your intake. Which is cool if your running an ECM because that's where it goes on an Olds V8. I can't recall what you're going to do about the gages, but if you're running the stock U21 style setup, the correct temp sensor for your NON-ECM car w/U21 gages, is 8993115, superseded to 8993146 (Delco #D1885). 3/8" threaded area diameter, single blade connector. It's just some of those ECM gage sensors just ground a circuit at a setpoint temp like an on/off switch and basically tells the ECM your engine is at operating temperature or not. I'm not fluent in the electronics of the switch guts itself on those ECM ones. Most ECM's don't really care if you're at 130 or at 140, etc.
Standard Motor Products has the equivalent aftermarket sensor as TS76 ($15.99 at Rockauto)
Of course, if this does not apply and you've already matched up your sensor to the gages you're going to use, forget about it. 🙂 But if you did end up needing one, here's a Delco sensor for you.
Standard Motor Products has the equivalent aftermarket sensor as TS76 ($15.99 at Rockauto)
Of course, if this does not apply and you've already matched up your sensor to the gages you're going to use, forget about it. 🙂 But if you did end up needing one, here's a Delco sensor for you.
NOS Water Temperature Switch - 1979 thru 85 GM truck - GM 8993146 repl. D1885 | eBay
NOS Water Temp Switch - 1978 thru 85 GM truck w/ gauges 8893146, D-1885.
www.ebay.com
Thank you for always looking out, and providing part #'s, and links. You are an absolute asset to this forum!
The temp sensor is for my Holley Sniper Stealth, which has an ECU. I'm using the Holley Pro Dash for gauges.
The temp sensor is for my Holley Sniper Stealth, which has an ECU. I'm using the Holley Pro Dash for gauges.
I kinda thought so but I was too lazy to go back and look. 🙂 As long as it works and you're happy, that's all that matters. All these stupid sensors can drive you crazy sometimes.
Look what finally showed up today... Holley EFI in-tank fuel pump #12-306. I've been waiting over 3 months for this. Installs inside my stock fuel tank, requires no external regulator, and no return line. Happy to have it!
OVERVIEW
• This in-tank fuel pump module is a high-pressure unit that flows 255 liters per hour (LPH) and is capable of supporting electronic fuel injection (EFI) engines producing up to 550 horsepower • A pre-calibrated fuel-level sending unit designed to work with the factory fuel gauge for this application is included • This module also features a HydraMat filter which has a unique internal reservoir that keeps fuel available at the pick-up and also provides protection from contaminates Fuel pressure is internally regulated to 58 psi eliminating the added expense and effort of purchasing and installing an external fuel pressure regulator - no separate return line is required because this module returns excess fuel right inside the tank! This 1978-87 G-body Muscle Car EFI Fuel Pump module was designed as a direct replacement for your factory pick-up and sending unit. There is no need to purchase a custom EFI fuel tank. You can even retain the factory fuel hard line - just connect the outlet of the pump module to the hard line on your vehicle with EFI-rated fuel hose and hose clamps available in the Earls Vapor Guard line. This Muscle Car EFI Module includes a 255 LPH fuel pump and a Holley HydraMat. HydraMat is an amazing patent-pending fuel reservoir system that reduces fuel starvation issues that might otherwise occur while cornering, accelerating, stopping, traversing inclines, and during low fuel conditions.
OVERVIEW
• This in-tank fuel pump module is a high-pressure unit that flows 255 liters per hour (LPH) and is capable of supporting electronic fuel injection (EFI) engines producing up to 550 horsepower • A pre-calibrated fuel-level sending unit designed to work with the factory fuel gauge for this application is included • This module also features a HydraMat filter which has a unique internal reservoir that keeps fuel available at the pick-up and also provides protection from contaminates Fuel pressure is internally regulated to 58 psi eliminating the added expense and effort of purchasing and installing an external fuel pressure regulator - no separate return line is required because this module returns excess fuel right inside the tank! This 1978-87 G-body Muscle Car EFI Fuel Pump module was designed as a direct replacement for your factory pick-up and sending unit. There is no need to purchase a custom EFI fuel tank. You can even retain the factory fuel hard line - just connect the outlet of the pump module to the hard line on your vehicle with EFI-rated fuel hose and hose clamps available in the Earls Vapor Guard line. This Muscle Car EFI Module includes a 255 LPH fuel pump and a Holley HydraMat. HydraMat is an amazing patent-pending fuel reservoir system that reduces fuel starvation issues that might otherwise occur while cornering, accelerating, stopping, traversing inclines, and during low fuel conditions.
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