radiator options for LS swap?
- Thread starter paradigm
- Start date
F body rad sucks because it lays down at a 20 degree angle and the rad fill cap is tilted.
Do you want to run a drivers side inlet or dual pass?
I have a griffin dual pass which is clean as the inlet and outlet are on the passenger side so you can get away with a short upper hose vs something that shoots all across the rad. Griffin also has some lackluster reviews for people.
A stock replacement G body part is fine if you are OK with the long upper hose and are OK saving money.
Do you want to run a drivers side inlet or dual pass?
I have a griffin dual pass which is clean as the inlet and outlet are on the passenger side so you can get away with a short upper hose vs something that shoots all across the rad. Griffin also has some lackluster reviews for people.
A stock replacement G body part is fine if you are OK with the long upper hose and are OK saving money.
93-97 F body radiator and fans. The LS1 F body guys upgrade to the 93-97 version because it is thicker.
And the cap is not angled backwards at all. It also bolts directly in using the Cutlass top plate.
And the cap is not angled backwards at all. It also bolts directly in using the Cutlass top plate.
I would have preferred to keep everything one side. So if I am sticking with the truck water pump, ideally everything on the passenger side.
If look at the Fbody water pump everything would be ideally on the driver side? then this means I need to change the power steering / alternator bracket to match as well, which could be another can of worms.
First engine I used F body ps pump, and an ICT Billet passenger side alternator bracket.
This engine I'm using C5/6 Corvette brackets so when I bolt the LSA supercharger on I won't have to touch the accessories.
This engine I'm using C5/6 Corvette brackets so when I bolt the LSA supercharger on I won't have to touch the accessories.
There are almost an infinite amount of options. Your choice depends on how you want it to look aesthetically and/or your budget.
The budget option is to use truck accessories from the junkyard/donor truck motor and a stock radiator that IS either new or in good condition. That allows you to use the truck upper hose.
The expensive program is using car or aftermarket accessories, and a high dollar radiator.
About $200 or $1500+, you pick.
The budget option is to use truck accessories from the junkyard/donor truck motor and a stock radiator that IS either new or in good condition. That allows you to use the truck upper hose.
The expensive program is using car or aftermarket accessories, and a high dollar radiator.
About $200 or $1500+, you pick.
Thats what I figured. For now I am going with a new stock replacement radiator for a V8 305 car and truck accessories on the LS motor in my 87 GN.
For some peace of mind, I ran a stock MCSS radiator for two years with LS truck accessories. Plenty of street miles and 1/4 mile runs at 800-900whp. It worked just fine. But over 900 seemed to start getting hotter than I cared for on the return road. For a NA motor, there is no need for much of anything more than a stock G-body V8 radiator.
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