Wrong sensor. The one you linked has NPT threads and the LS heads have a metric straight thread design. You can head off to any parts store of your choice and buy a CLT (coolant temp sensor) for any truck or SUV from 98-2008 and it will be the correct thread and harness connection. And the year range is greater than what I listed, but every truck LS, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 uses the same CLT. In terms of the remaining sensors, you could do yourself a giant favor and use the engine that your vehicle came from.
There only a couple of differences for LS engines form 10+ years.
1st, 24x crank trigger wheel and 1x cam trigger (referred toas 24x/1x). These have the cam sensor mounted in the rear of the engine in the block next to the oil pressure sensor; 58x crank trigger wheel and 4x cam trigger wheel (referred to as 58/4x). These have the cam sensor mounted in the front cover. The 58x/4x started in some '05 models but were in full swing by '06 with the exception of some vans with 4.8's. These use different crank and cam sensors. The 24x/1x use a 12 volt reference for the cam and crank sensors whereas the 58x/4x use a 5 volt reference for those sensors. The pinouts and connectors for the cam and crank sensors are similar, but not identical. They are interchangeable with some minor effort, and I mean MINOR.
2nd, DBW vs DBC. It sounds like you've learned about this and have a DBW which requires an electronic throttle pedal to be used. There are positives and negatives to both and everyone has an opinion about the two - I'll leave my opinion out.
3rd : the 24x/1x motors have knock sensors mounted in the valley cover whereas the 58x/4x has the knock sensors mounted on the sides of the block. Again, do yourself a favor and don't hook these up to the Holley - they are a PITA to tune and if you have an aftermarket cam and/or intake can pickup false knock.
4th : Cathedral vs square port heads. Almost everyone that has picked up an LS is using a cathedral port due to they are older. Don't quote me on the year, but square ports became the norm somewhere around '10 mostly. But again, van motors could be found later that might or might not have cathedrals. Both work, but the intakes are not interchangeable, and there is not an intake that works with both.
Regarding the Terminator's I/O (inputs and outputs), look through the 15 or so page manual that came with the Terminator and locate the picture of the I/O connector along with the color coding of exactly where each pin/wire color is assigned in the harness and the pin identifier, i.e. B13, A4, etc. Those pin identifiers are what are assigned in the pin map after they are hooked up to your fan relay as a ground trigger - ground trigger means that ECU supplies a ground when that output is activated so you have to have your relay wired according. DO NOT use any of the outputs to power or ground any component directly other than maybe a Mac Valve. Will also mention that your one size fits all harness will include a connector for the IAC, but if you are using a DBW throttle, then no IAC is used. So you have to do something with that connector so it doesn't look silly hanging out by your TB.
There are some other small differences among the motors, but it's not worth going into every detail. If you have any questions, then don't hesitate to send me a PM. Holley is the simplest ECU available to use on an LS and 60e/80e trans. And it will not self tune incorrect input information. If you have a relatively stock engine, setup a tune via the handheld wizard and any EVERY question during the setup CORRECTLY, then it will fire, idle and drive around pretty well. Then you should pay someone or spend the time to learn how to tune it. And PLEASE follow the wiring directions - don't improvise or try to outsmart the people that wrote them.
