rally conversion

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3XBrownCutty

Royal Smart Person
Mar 20, 2008
1,820
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38
NW PA
www.cardomain.com
firstly, where did you guys get the 45* brass fitting so the oil sending unit will fit? I tried 2 90*'s but not enough clearance.

secondly, i have 2 lights out... L turn signal, and the tach seems real dark. i swapped bulbs, but they still dont work... could something be wrong or should i just check the contact points and get new bulbs.

i was trying to mess with the odometer of the new cluster to match my old one. i was dicking around for like at least a half an hour, then realized i could just swap them. :blam: that took up the most time out of the swap :roll:

lastly and most importantly, my gas gauge reads way over full, and its only like 3/4 full. i don't need a different sending unit in the tank do I? the one i have in there is only like 1-2 years old...
 
you couldnt find one at a hardware store?
 
i think the gas gauge fixed itself...

also how should i wire the oil sending unit? the v6 harness has a tan and a brown wire and the new sending unit has a spot for 1 wire. on the back of the cluster, tan is oil... should i just hook up the tan then?
 
:wtf: :wtf: :wtf: :wtf: :blam:

So I had the gauges out again tonight.

Instead of soldering the 8 cylinder or 6 cylinder jumper on the back of the tach, i found a real small nut and bolt and pinched down that little metal piece on the 8 cyl position. seems to have worked real well. that was the only good part of tonight.

Got my 45* brass piece and oil sending unit in, and connected the tan wire, still no reading unit on the gauge :blam:

When i turn on my headlights, the tach doesnt work at all. what the hell! the connector is wired correctly, the extra wires are taped up and not ground on anything. and of course both my turn signal lights dont work...

DOES ANYONEKNOW HOW TO HOOK UP V6 WIRING TO THE V8 RALLEY PAC!! man this is frustrating....
 
When I put my first ralley pack in it worked great, minus the bouncy tach at high RPM. What I found out is with my other cluster it would acutally go to 3500 RPM with the lights on, 2500 with the lights off. You are just having the opposite problem. I didnt have the water or oil press guages hooked up on the other set when it had the V6 harness. I had to swap to the 307 harness when I swapped fuse boxes.

First attempt was 86 V6 ralley pack into 81 V6 harness
Redo was 85 V8 into 85 V8 wiring.

Its worked fine for me! Its just when I had 1/4 tank of gas when I first started it up it would go past full, take a corner kinda hard and it went back down. It only did it on the first startup of the day. Since I filled it full it hasnt done it. These things are fickle.

To test the guage just ground the wire. It will go like way past the guage markings.

Ohh, and BTW, I dont have the temp light hooked up and it works fine if you were wondering.
 
First add a Ground. Thats solved alot of my problem (blinker INOP and Dim bulb). I used that extra ground, splice a wire to it, and bolted it to the PC board.

Second, take off the 5 nuts for the guages and make sure there clean and tight, that solved my guage problem

Third if your still having problems, I would do what this guy did. Hard wire the guages
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsmobi ... anel-a.htm
 
Yup... bad grounds are your enemy. That's likely why the tach stops working, the illumination circuit tries to ground through the tach. Far as a light or two not working, with age the connection on the circuit board gets oxidized or corroded and winds up having a pretty crappy connection as a result. Try twisting the bulb socket from locked to unlocked a few times with some pressure and it should start working so long as he bulb is good.
 
so where can i attatch the ground? just anywhere on the tach circuit board, or anywhere on that plastic board on the back? does it matter?

I read a guy cut away the plastic over the copper and drill a hole and sandwitch a piece of wire on the copper with a nut and bolt.

any ideas on the oil pressure?
 
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