Rear Coilover Upgrade Tips

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
3,510
113
Western MN
I would put the shocks/coil over brackets as far to the backing plates as possible yes.

The reason the factory puts the shocks at an angle is mostly for packaging and ride quality. The shock can't really sit straight up because it would hit the frame or tire, and having it farther in on the rear end side would reduce the ground clearance or require the shock to be really short and kill suspension travel or rear trunk floor room. Putting it on the LCA bracket is simple, strong, and gets the best ride.

The closer the shock/spring pickup point is to the tire, the better roll control the spring is going to have. I might be OK moving it in slightly to allow room for a frame notch to run a 10.5" slick tire, but pulling it way in like you have is going to make the car really tippy and require a larger sway/anti roll bar. It's all based on leverage.

You are kinda money 'in' that kit you have now, but in my eyes that is more of a raw tube chassis car kit for a from scratch setup. It does give you a ton of options for bar angles, but forces you to inboard the bracket which personally I'm not a fan of.

I MUCH prefer this type of setup. The rear control arm bracket on the rear end and spring pocket on the frame are strong. You loose that slight adjustability of the tube chassis kit you have, but honestly unless you are deep in the 5's or 4's in the 1/8th mile and need the adjustability, the coil over is going to give you the flexibility you want/need.

 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 18, 2020
34
18
Winslow Illinois
I dont really think I am money in on these brackets. So far I $717 on the stuff but I learned some stuff along the way. Going to think about it a bit yet, as to what I decide to do. I thankyou all very much for the information so far! Its been helpful, sometimes your end goal can make you lose focus on your reality.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Supporting Member
Dec 1, 2014
3,307
113
Upstate NY
Money is relevant. You’re correct that $700 isn’t that much in the big scheme of things.

But…….I’m always trying to find the cheapest program out there that works. I just payed over $420 for a set of Vikings lol. And my stomach is in a knot about dropping another $500 on a trans brake valve body.

I’m always looking for the value in the dollars spent. As long as you’re happy and not buying shocks rather than paying the mortgage, then have at it and BE HAPPY brotha!! :)
 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 18, 2020
34
18
Winslow Illinois
Transbrake money is an investment in happiness!!! I smile everytime I let go of the button.
 
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bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
1,002
113
I dont really think I am money in on these brackets. So far I $717 on the stuff but I learned some stuff along the way. Going to think about it a bit yet, as to what I decide to do. I thankyou all very much for the information so far! Its been helpful, sometimes your end goal can make you lose focus on your reality.
I would take the bolts out of the brace and see how preloaded it is.
 

Rt Jam

Apprentice
Mar 30, 2020
85
18
Ontario Canada
My idea is alot of work but a bent rear housing would bug me. Remove it from the car. Install a empty center and jig to the axle bearings. If they are not centered I would bend the tubes until it is. This is truly easy, I have done it before. Giant C clamp and torches. Once it's straight, I'd be happy. Now you have the option to eliminate the strut bar if it's not a drag car with slicks. If the strut stays I would modify the bracket to move the assembly rearward.

Seems like cornering and street driving was mentioned but either way. South Side lower control arms have solid bushings. Is that what yours are like?
Solid bushings have no place on a car. They are for doors only. If the rear end articulates, and it will. The lower control arm articulates with it. Then the solid bushing say nope and the mount is forced to deal with the twist from the control arm. I have seen enough broken mounts and oval bolt holes to say no to solid bushings. Think of a door, they do not articulate, top moves, bottom moves. Rear ends need to move left and right separately without breaking anything.
 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 18, 2020
34
18
Winslow Illinois
Axel is pretty straight at this point. Straightened it out 20 years ago just how you described. Its just a mental block at this point, where i will always want the braces as an added security. It has south side machine lower comtrol arms in the rear. They are a solid type mount. I have a big et street tire for nitrous passes at the track but usually just drive around with a street tire running errands with it. Ordered coilover mount brackets for the rear because its a street car over anything else, and everything will work as it was only hopefully better. None of the rear control arm mounting holes were egged out when i was adding the control arm mount braces but i noticed that the lower bar bolts were wore in spots where the lower bar was rubbing in a almost twist action, so i see what you are saying. I have had aluminum upper mounts to put in the top of the rear-end for 20 years but never put them in yet. Think they came with the edebrock upper adjustable control arms. Definitely changing the bolts with new ones this go around. Thanks for the information.
 

bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
1,002
113
Axel is pretty straight at this point. Straightened it out 20 years ago just how you described. Its just a mental block at this point, where i will always want the braces as an added security. It has south side machine lower comtrol arms in the rear. They are a solid type mount. I have a big et street tire for nitrous passes at the track but usually just drive around with a street tire running errands with it. Ordered coilover mount brackets for the rear because its a street car over anything else, and everything will work as it was only hopefully better. None of the rear control arm mounting holes were egged out when i was adding the control arm mount braces but i noticed that the lower bar bolts were wore in spots where the lower bar was rubbing in a almost twist action, so i see what you are saying. I have had aluminum upper mounts to put in the top of the rear-end for 20 years but never put them in yet. Think they came with the edebrock upper adjustable control arms. Definitely changing the bolts with new ones this go around. Thanks for the information.
What does the car 60' at now?
 
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