I would put the shocks/coil over brackets as far to the backing plates as possible yes.
The reason the factory puts the shocks at an angle is mostly for packaging and ride quality. The shock can't really sit straight up because it would hit the frame or tire, and having it farther in on the rear end side would reduce the ground clearance or require the shock to be really short and kill suspension travel or rear trunk floor room. Putting it on the LCA bracket is simple, strong, and gets the best ride.
The closer the shock/spring pickup point is to the tire, the better roll control the spring is going to have. I might be OK moving it in slightly to allow room for a frame notch to run a 10.5" slick tire, but pulling it way in like you have is going to make the car really tippy and require a larger sway/anti roll bar. It's all based on leverage.
You are kinda money 'in' that kit you have now, but in my eyes that is more of a raw tube chassis car kit for a from scratch setup. It does give you a ton of options for bar angles, but forces you to inboard the bracket which personally I'm not a fan of.
I MUCH prefer this type of setup. The rear control arm bracket on the rear end and spring pocket on the frame are strong. You loose that slight adjustability of the tube chassis kit you have, but honestly unless you are deep in the 5's or 4's in the 1/8th mile and need the adjustability, the coil over is going to give you the flexibility you want/need.
The reason the factory puts the shocks at an angle is mostly for packaging and ride quality. The shock can't really sit straight up because it would hit the frame or tire, and having it farther in on the rear end side would reduce the ground clearance or require the shock to be really short and kill suspension travel or rear trunk floor room. Putting it on the LCA bracket is simple, strong, and gets the best ride.
The closer the shock/spring pickup point is to the tire, the better roll control the spring is going to have. I might be OK moving it in slightly to allow room for a frame notch to run a 10.5" slick tire, but pulling it way in like you have is going to make the car really tippy and require a larger sway/anti roll bar. It's all based on leverage.
You are kinda money 'in' that kit you have now, but in my eyes that is more of a raw tube chassis car kit for a from scratch setup. It does give you a ton of options for bar angles, but forces you to inboard the bracket which personally I'm not a fan of.
I MUCH prefer this type of setup. The rear control arm bracket on the rear end and spring pocket on the frame are strong. You loose that slight adjustability of the tube chassis kit you have, but honestly unless you are deep in the 5's or 4's in the 1/8th mile and need the adjustability, the coil over is going to give you the flexibility you want/need.
1978-1988 GM G-Body Rear Coilover Bracket Kit, Bolt-In, Brackets Only - UMI Performance Inc.
UMI’s bolt-in rear coilover bracket kit is a complete mounting solution for your factory axle 1978-1988 GM G-Body. This race-proven
www.umiperformance.com