rear disc break conversion - what is needed to work with factory rear end?

[86LK]

couple questions....

based on your picture above....
1) did you clean the entire backing plate (yellow dashes)? looks pretty dirty for a recent brake job
2) did you replace the star wheel adjuster? that looks new. if so, did you VERIFY it's the right one for that side?
3) are the springs up top hooked up correctly? the left looks correct but the two on the right....? I know every brake design is different so this may be fine

do you have a pic of the setup behind the hub at the top?

 

[paradigm]

Are the backing plates good? If really rotten or damaged the retaining pins &/or wheel cylinder retainer may allow things to float around & let things get misaligned after being adjusted.

Backing plate seems solid, but the pins through the springs seem bent.

I ordered this Dorman kit only because it comes with the adjuster mechanism which is what is not sitting right currently, and I plan to pull everything off the backing plate and rebuild it with this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZ7NK7Y5?tag=gbody-20

 

[565bbchevy]

If you didn't already, I would replace that wheel cylinder since it is cheap insurance and you are basically starting over anyway.

 

[melloelky]

If you didn't already, I would replace that wheel cylinder since it is cheap insurance and you are basically starting over anyway.

I agree,at this point why not.
You might be on to something there. when you stepped on the brake and no drum was in place to stop it, you might have pushed the wheel cylinder ends out to far and something could've gone wrong with it.

 

[Ernest]

Nothing wrong with keeping the disc/drum setup, its more ideal if you want to keep things simple if you're just a cruiser and plan on doing nothing else... but upgrading never hurts for future endevours.

 

[Ribbedroof]

As alluded to above, the adjusters are side-sensitive. Usually marked on the end of the shaft where the small end slips on to it.

 

[paradigm]

couple questions....
View attachment 253165

based on your picture above....
1) did you clean the entire backing plate (yellow dashes)? looks pretty dirty for a recent brake job
2) did you replace the star wheel adjuster? that looks new. if so, did you VERIFY it's the right one for that side?
3) are the springs up top hooked up correctly? the left looks correct but the two on the right....? I know every brake design is different so this may be fine

do you have a pic of the setup behind the hub at the top?

1) I didn't clean the entire backing plate. I only lubed the areas which the shoe would touch. Ill try and clean it up better now.

2) I did not replace the star wheel adjuster. The Dorman hardware kit I got today has new adjusters, and they are labelled left bag and right bag for each side's adjuster parts, plus a 3rd bag for common to both side parts. Ill be installing these parts.

3) Im not sure if they are hooked up correctly or not, but the passenger side looks to be hooked up the same and that one is functioning fine. The driver side which has the loose adjuster issue and now is running hot / rubbing as a result had no issue prior to me hitting the brake with the drum off.

Here is a better photo of the top springs:

 

[paradigm]

Well I changed the springs and adjuster mechanism over to the Dorman pieces and finally got it all sitting right. Brakes seem to have excess travel in them so I’ll I’ll adjust the adjuster on both rears a little further until the drum sits more snug. I’m just concerned that it will rub too much, as it was doing that before and burning.

 

[paradigm]

I noticed these washers in the Dorman drum brake hardware set, what are they used for?

 

[paradigm]

Nothing wrong with keeping the disc/drum setup, its more ideal if you want to keep things simple if you're just a cruiser and plan on doing nothing else... but upgrading never hurts for future endevours.

I am going to stick with the drums for now since the car is more of a cruiser.