Rear suspension upgrade advice

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I don't remember what bracing the '79 GP has behind the back seat, but T-top cars cars can really benefit from a XX brace made out of electrical conduit bolted to the body behind the seat, Cutlass jounce bars to go with a GP bar to stiffen the frame in front and makes sure you have all of the lower body bushings.
 
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I don't remember what bracing the '79 GP has behind the back seat, but T-top cars cars can really benefit from a XX brace made out of electrical conduit bolted to the body behind the seat, Cutlass jounce bars to go with a GP bar to stiffen the frame in front and makes sure you have all of the lower body bushings.

^^^ Good thing you brought that up, I had forgot to mention chassis bracing in my last post. I have every piece of bracing GM made for the G body on my car, as well UMI chassis braces. It made a huge difference in the car.
 
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Thanks guys. Looking through the options for adjustable rear upper control arms are these compatible with the 7.5 rears or are they just for the 8.5?
 
Here is my input on this, If your not out thrashing your car on autocross tracks or on the back roads then coilovers are over kill. I would suggest UMI 1 inch drop springs with bilsteins all on four corners. Is your car a F41 package car? I'd assume since it has the rear bar already.. but going to a 1 inch from 7/8 might help a tad, what will make a big difference is the adjustable frame and rear axle mounted sway bar. The list could go on and on... it all depends what your plans are with your car.. Good luck it gets very pricey quick!!
Will the 1 inch drop springs in the rear make the car look as if its sag, as I wont be able to set up the front end this season so it will remain with the stock coil spring and control arms.
 
Will the 1 inch drop springs in the rear make the car look as if its sag, as I wont be able to set up the front end this season so it will remain with the stock coil spring and control arms.

If the rear of the car looks low vs the front, you can install Tall lower ball joints on the car in a couple hours, using one of those C-clamp removal tools you rent at autozone. The shock captures the spring during the whole procedure. Tall (.5" taller) balljoints will lower the front about 3/4" and improve handling. Tall balljoints are about $100/pr shipped from Summit and will should work with whatever suspension you eventually go with.

Before doing anything, I eyeball the starting toe (with the front of the car on ramps, sight down the outside face of each front tire, mid tire, to see where the sight line - that touches the outside face of the front and back of the front tire, intersects the tread of the back tire) and note this. Tall ball joints will change the toe slightly, so it is good to know where you are so you can tweak the toe back into spec after the swap. Checking this on ramps allows for easy adjustment. Wider tires really help when eyeballing the toe, because the body doesn't get in the way.

Using parallel strings also works, but the eyeball method is faster if you are just trying to put things back where they were and basically works the same way, but without math.
 
Wow I have alot to learn about setting up a suspension. So far I've ordered the Umi lower rear tubular control arms. The hellwig rear swaybar. Will get the adjustable umi upper control arms with rotojoint.
Coil springs I'm still baffled with. How is it moog springs are 40 bucks a pair while the lowering springs are over 160? The Bmr 1.5 inch lowering springs for $109 maybe a good option but will my 275x60x15 tires hit the fender?
I personally am not into lowered cars I like the rake on moog 5379's. But I know if I want the handling I have to lower.
 
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