It cost me about $25 to refinish mine. It took me about an hour per rim to remove the trim, sand them by hand and paint them. I didn't bother to polish the trim pieces, they were in good condition.
Refinished Rallye Rims?
- Thread starter YGspider
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YGspider,
you're up here in Ontario like me, and the costs for sandblasting and powdercoating are outrageous. Ask me... I've gotten several quotes on several items, and I can almost never afford to have it done.
I've refinished a few sets of wheels now, all different kinds, and I've stuck to old fashion elbow greese... I usually go out and get myself a few different kinds of wire wheels, different shapes and sizes, for my cordless drill. And go over each wheel to scuff or remove the paint/rust.
each wheel can take an hour to a few, depending on condition. If there is rust bubbling under the paint, I like to remove the paint and get to the rust underneath. If there is little rust and there's still a good base of paint, I just scuff the whole wheel, and the job goes quicker.
Another technique I like for wheels with lots of contours and curves, is paint stripper. The AirCraft stripper works well... It usually takes a few applications but really takes the hardwork off your shoulders.
Before any paint work, I like to thoroughly scrub the whole wheel with dishsoap and water to remove any dirt & grim...
if you don't have trim rings, you can still have a nice hot-rod look
you're up here in Ontario like me, and the costs for sandblasting and powdercoating are outrageous. Ask me... I've gotten several quotes on several items, and I can almost never afford to have it done.
I've refinished a few sets of wheels now, all different kinds, and I've stuck to old fashion elbow greese... I usually go out and get myself a few different kinds of wire wheels, different shapes and sizes, for my cordless drill. And go over each wheel to scuff or remove the paint/rust.
each wheel can take an hour to a few, depending on condition. If there is rust bubbling under the paint, I like to remove the paint and get to the rust underneath. If there is little rust and there's still a good base of paint, I just scuff the whole wheel, and the job goes quicker.
Another technique I like for wheels with lots of contours and curves, is paint stripper. The AirCraft stripper works well... It usually takes a few applications but really takes the hardwork off your shoulders.
Before any paint work, I like to thoroughly scrub the whole wheel with dishsoap and water to remove any dirt & grim...
if you don't have trim rings, you can still have a nice hot-rod look
Thanks Khan for the Info im leaning towards doing them my self without sand blasitng dose the rust on my rims look to bad personaly I think it is not that bad at all. My Dad on the other hand is like oh those rims are sh*t they arnt worth redoing, but I think with some effort and a littel know how I can get them shining again and I really wanna find that crome trim peace for the Rim
your rims aren't too bad. But there is rust under the paint, so you may have some lengthy wire-wheeling ahead of you. If you use POR-15 paint, it holds strong over rust compared to other paints... so this maybe something consider if you can't get all the rust out.
I don't now where you can get the trim, but you can take the small pieces off an polish them with some chrome polish or mother's polish.
there will always be people telling you something isn't worth doing. So do it for your own reasons and don't let them discourage you. Use it as a chance to learn something. This hobby is all about restoring old things and bringing them back to new.
I don't now where you can get the trim, but you can take the small pieces off an polish them with some chrome polish or mother's polish.
there will always be people telling you something isn't worth doing. So do it for your own reasons and don't let them discourage you. Use it as a chance to learn something. This hobby is all about restoring old things and bringing them back to new.
YG, I've got a set of trim here. I'm not 100% on the condition, but let me dig them out, get some pics and see if you want them?
Por15 is good but it's the sh*ts at sticking to bare metal, it really wants the rust to hold on to. You'll at least want to use their Metal prep I think its called, before you paint. If you go this route, and you intend to top coat(advised) spray your first top coat when the por is still tacky with some finger drag. This will allow that first top coat to adhere to the por, otherwise you'll need to scuff the por with 600 grit. I use a sponge brush for the por as a regular brush tends to leave lines. Get a few brushes various sizes because the por seems to eat them up a bit.
Good luck, they'll look great on your car 8)
Por15 is good but it's the sh*ts at sticking to bare metal, it really wants the rust to hold on to. You'll at least want to use their Metal prep I think its called, before you paint. If you go this route, and you intend to top coat(advised) spray your first top coat when the por is still tacky with some finger drag. This will allow that first top coat to adhere to the por, otherwise you'll need to scuff the por with 600 grit. I use a sponge brush for the por as a regular brush tends to leave lines. Get a few brushes various sizes because the por seems to eat them up a bit.
Good luck, they'll look great on your car 8)
I love POR-15, it's great stuff, but I tend to use it in wheel wells, undercarriages, floors, hidden areas of the engine compartment, places where it's not really seen. I'm concerned about adhesion of other paints, I've heard about spraying while it's still tacky, and it's extremely tough, so it would take quite a bit to scuff it, and certainly to sand it down if you're trying to go for a good finish. Also, it's not intended for exposure to sunlight, the UV will break it down and cause it to change colors. On wheels, they usually get surface rust, but they don't normally rot out, so I wouldn't personally use it on them, except maybe on the back if it's very rusty and you don't want to grind to bare metal. My feeling is, something like Rustoleum would be easier to work with and should hold up fine. Again, not knocking POR-15, I love it, I just use it more sparingly on rot-prone or hidden rusty areas.
Ya, good point, forgot about that. I know that getting a top coat is a must because of the uv, but not sure the por would be the best base if it doesn't flatten out nice.
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