Repair OR Replace ??
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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All in the plan. Car will be painted inside and out. Thanks!
Good stuff dude! Get some pics next time when you can, definitely would love to see it 👌
Or if you don't have a TIG:
I think my Instalame is listening to me and making suggestions to my YouTurd feed.
I counted over a dozen just in the lower right where the two ribs come close to each other. Once you put a little fire to those, they tend to become big holes.
Sounds like James has a plan, I'll leave it alone from here on out
If you aren't going to cut out the bad and replace with new....I'd suggest duct tape and roofing tar...
^^ 🤷♂️
Thanks for the response, but neither of those items will be involved in this repair.
Dumb question, but could you MIG up the bigger holes with small patches, then use some Evaporust to clean the topside of the panel, then use 3M Panel bond for all the pitted and pinholed areas? Panel Bond doesnt absorb water or delaminate like fiberglass does. I am a little curious how it would hold up to the flexing of the floor pan.
You could, but it's still a better idea to cut out the areas and weld new metal in. That way it lasts there.
While your classic doesn't look too bad regarding rusted floor pans, I never do anything half-a$$ed when working on cars. Tin-canned replacement body repairs, slathered with body plastic or tar never was defined as a fix in my book! I suspect there are many who do that kind of work and get rid of the car. Hopefully, for their sake, they never buy a car from someone who has the same mindset.
Here is a rule-of-thumb to follow when dealing with rust repairs: cut 2-3 inches away from the rust hole or until you find good metal onto which to weld your patches. For the floor, I would do butt welds rather than lap welds to avoid places where moisture can collect and start the rust process again. Also, try not to leave squared/right angled corners; instead have rounded corners-drill holes in these areas. Reason for not having square corners is heat gets concentrated at the corner as you weld and you end up with blow-thru holes. Good luck!
Here is a rule-of-thumb to follow when dealing with rust repairs: cut 2-3 inches away from the rust hole or until you find good metal onto which to weld your patches. For the floor, I would do butt welds rather than lap welds to avoid places where moisture can collect and start the rust process again. Also, try not to leave squared/right angled corners; instead have rounded corners-drill holes in these areas. Reason for not having square corners is heat gets concentrated at the corner as you weld and you end up with blow-thru holes. Good luck!
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