replacing a 305's fuel filter

[ilduce]

I went to replace the $5 fuel filter and sure enough the retaining nut on the fuel line (that goes into the filter housing on the carb) seems like it's locked in place pretty well. I haven't done this in about ten years. Does that retaining nut turn right to loosen instead of left? I reefed on it going left and no such luck. Same with the right. So, it's stuck in there and I can't remember which way this b*st*rd has to go to loosen it. It's starting to round off. I'm not going to try again until I get a flare nut wrench because the regular open end isn't doing it. I hate breaking fuel lines, so I'm only turning it in one direction the next try.

 

[anakputa]

Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty..

 

[chevyman454]

if its a northern car get a can of PB B'laster and soak it for a day or 2 then try that stuff works wonders for getting stuff off

 

[ilduce]

Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty..

On which one? The thrush retaining nut on the fuel filter line or the filter housing? The housing is regular, CC (left) to loosen. A gearhead today told me it's the opposite for the fuel line nut, clockwise (right) to remove it from the filter housing because it's a pipe fitting going into a thread. He wasn't sure because he hasn't worked on a q-jet for over 15 years. Is that Freeze Off stuff at O'Reillys any good for this purpose? It's "froze on" into the filter housing.

 

[billyjack]

Both are conventional right-hand thread. First, get a 5/8" flare nut wrench for the tubing nut. While holding the filter fitting securely in place with a 1" wrench, give the 5/8" wrench a light but sharp tap with a small hammer. That should break it loose from both the fuel line and filter housing. Don't forget to replace the plastic sealing ring on the end of the filter housing. Also, a wrap of teflon tape or a bit of anti-seize on the fuel line fitting will make life easier next time.

Bill

 

[ilduce]

Both are conventional right-hand thread. First, get a 5/8" flare nut wrench for the tubing nut. While holding the filter fitting securely in place with a 1" wrench, give the 5/8" wrench a light but sharp tap with a small hammer. That should break it loose from both the fuel line and filter housing. Don't forget to replace the plastic sealing ring on the end of the filter housing. Also, a wrap of teflon tape or a bit of anti-seize on the fuel line fitting will make life easier next time.

Bill

Thanks for the info Bill. As soon as I can go to a Sears I'm buying a flare nut wrench. If that doesn't work it's vice-grip time. I don't know if a light tap is going to do the trick, I was arm-wrestling it the first time. I might also pay a mechanic to literally loosen the nut. Does the plastic sealing ring come in a carb kit or can I buy that separate at O-Reillys?

 

[billyjack]

Does the plastic sealing ring come in a carb kit or can I buy that separate at O-Reillys?

It's a separate part-term is "fuel inlet gasket". It's a very thin white plastic ring about 7/8" in diameter. Regarding the nut, sometimes the shock of a sharp tap is more effective at breaking corroded parts apart than a smooth application of force. I only mentioned small hammer so you don't attack it right away with your BFH. Start small and work up in size if needed.
Your mention of buying a Craftsman wrench brought back a long forgotten item from many years ago. My late father was a flat-rate mechanic in his younger days before moving to service management. He had a Snap-On cabinet filled with predominately Snap-On tools. One day, as a young boy, while cleaning his tools, I asked why he had a selection of Craftsman wrenches, mostly in larger sizes. His reply "Those are the only ones I beat on with a hammer". A little father's day memory. I still have those same wrenches and use them for the same purpose.

Bill