Restoring Chime sound

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84 W40

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Dec 9, 2009
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For the few that would like to have there fainted chime sound like the 80s again this is what I did. There are different chime box's and colors for different Years, the spare box that i am using is same that's in my Hurst. As long you can hear your fainted chime it's just a matter of replacing the foam ring. If you can't hear your chime at all well those are other issues or a bad chime box. My fasten seat belt light wasn't working and I assumed it was a bad bulb, found the problem and will get to it later on.

This is the spare box with 7 connection on it
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To open up the box there are two locking tabs, just pry them up and the cover will open.
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Now it's time to remove the PCB out of the box. Put your thumb on the bottom terminals and press down on it. PCB should pop up at an angle, you can now remove it from the box. (NOTE) the bottom terminals are in slots in the box.
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What the PCB looks like out of box. That black round plastic is your speaker.
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Time to remove the speaker, it's just clipped on two metal posts circled in yellow. Take your time it will come off.
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Taking apart the speaker, on one side there's a plastic cover faded yellow that's being held on by four pressed on tabs. When that's removed there is a very thin metal disk be very careful with it and don't bend it. You can see a black ring on that disk well that was part of the foam ring that disintegrated over the years.
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I had used a razor blade to clean up any remaining foam on the disk, if you use this method Don't cut your self.
Next was making the foam ring, I found a few pieces at work that were thin and the thickness was 0.190 inch. I used the yellow cover and tracing the outside edge and inside edge on the foam.
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Cut the outer circle first then fold it in half and cut the inner half circle.
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I took the new foam ring and installed it on the inside of the yellow cover. Then installed the metal disk in the black plastic cover, it doesn't matter what side of disk you use. Snapped on the yellow cover on the black cover and your done. I didn't use any glue on the foam you don't need it.
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Now it's time to mount the speaker back on the two metal posts. There are small slots in the plastic that the metal posts go into and snap in. When you push on the ends of the speaker you should hear a snap.
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Before you mount it back into the box test it to make sure it has that 80s ding.
You can use a 9Volt battery for a test or a power supply like I have.
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To test it place the PCB so the speaker is facing up on wood or cardboard, don't place it on any metal object if you do kiss it goodbye. Looking at the picture below there is three terminals on top. Connect the last two terminals alligator clips to positive side of DC power, a 9 volt battery works perfectly.
 
Hmmm. Not seeing that last picture. Which terminals do you hook up to the power supply?
 
Hmmm. Not seeing that last picture. Which terminals do you hook up to the power supply?
I didn't get to finish it, I went over my limit with pictures but will continue.
 
My last paragraph go's with this picture



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Once those two terminals are hooked to positive side your ready use the negative side. The four terminals at the bottom is for negative, starting from the left touch the first terminal. It should go ding ding see picture.
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Touch the second terminal and you should have a ding ding. See pictures
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Touch the third terminal and it should go ding ding but a little louder see picture.
The other two terminals that wasn't used must be for the safety belt light and or something else I haven't figured that out yet. As long you get the dings on the first three terminals on the bottom your good.
Before you put back in the box there is resistor that needs to be checked. That resistor turns on your safety belt light.
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Once I did my test I put back in the box removed my original chime box, pain in the a$$ to get to and installed the spare box. Now it sounds like the 80s and my seat belt light is working. All this time I thought the bulb was bad. I opened up the original chime box and noticed a resistor was burnt, sorry forgot take a picture of it but I can show you witch one it was on the spare unit.
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Looked up the value of the resistor at work and pulled one out of the stock room.
I replaced it with a new one but a word of caution, the tracks are very thin. My soldering station I have has an adjustable heat range 250-850 F. Heat range I used was about 590 F.
Put in a new foam ring, replaced the resistor and tested it then put back in the box. Yes I removed the spare chime box and installed the original. Sounds like the 80s again and the seat belt light is working. So that resistor you see circled controls the seat belt light.
 
Am I reading that as a 27 ohm resistor with +/- 1% tolerance? red/violet/black/brown? Or am I missing something? +/-5% if gold instead of brown.

It's been 1000 years since I looked up resistor bands.
 
Am I reading that as a 27 ohm resistor with +/- 1% tolerance? red/violet/black/brown? Or am I missing something? +/-5% if gold instead of brown.

It's been 1000 years since I looked up resistor bands.
It's red violet black gold
Resistors that they make these days don't have color bands on them just a value.
I had a resistor color wheel could not find it.
 
I'll just come right out and ask- is that resistor's value circled in yellow in case we, the non-electrical types, find the need to replace it a 27 ohm resistor with +/-5% tolerance? Radio shack where are you? 🙂 When I ever needed junk like that, that's where I'd go.

If it actually is 27 ohm +/-5%, then Amazon has you covered. Yeah, resistors are cheap, but shipping isn't. So 6 bucks isn't that bad. If you can get them locally, it still might cost you $6 to get a 10 cent resistor just to buy the gas to get there.
 
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I don't know how many of those i disconnected for customers back in the day
 
I'll just come right out and ask- is that resistor's value circled in yellow in case we, the non-electrical types, find the need to replace it a 27 ohm resistor with +/-5% tolerance? Radio shack where are you? 🙂 When I ever needed junk like that, that's where I'd go.

If it actually is 27 ohm +/-5%, then Amazon has you covered. Yeah, resistors are cheap, but shipping isn't. So 6 bucks isn't that bad. If you can get them locally, it still might cost you $6 to get a 10 cent resistor just to buy the gas to get there.
Yes, the resistor that's circled in yellow is the value you need.

Radio Shack was the go to store for stuff like this, i miss it. Where I work we have a Electronic Stockroom that's filled with every Electronic part you can think of for the MIT Engineers.
 
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