Sealer coat questions
- Thread starter Tony1968
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if you're gonna go the prep paste route,mask the panel gaps with 3/4" tape(picture outlining where they meet with tape)that way the sludge doesn't run into the jambs.that stuff gets into everything and follows every seam/body line/crevice etc.when you're all done pull the tape and dry scuff those small areas by hand that were previously masked.you really need to stay on top of that stuff if you're using it on a car vs a single panel on a stand.it gets a little messy and making sure you get all of it off is important as when it dries it becomes another contimant in your finish
I’ve always been told that if you sand/scuff epoxy primer that you must recoat with another coat of epoxy
that's ppg's stance on things but I don't know what line Mr Tony's using. their main concern behind that is overall mill thickness
Summitracing.com paint, epoxy, and high build is what I'm using. Their P sheet says after window of epoxy as sealer you must abrade surface. Nothing about re coating. But prior to paint i will seal with reduced epoxy. Hi build is gray and epoxy is white so it'll help with coverage prior to the white single stage.
I was under the impression your epoxy coat is supposed to be impermeable. So when you break it open while sanding, you'll need to apply epoxy again like if it was bare metal. I also thought you wanted to spray sealer right before spraying base(atleast within the recoat window) If not you'll have to scuff and seal again. You spray sealer to have smooth surface that's all the same color to avoid bleed thrus correct?
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