SHAVED TRUCK INTAKE QUESTION???

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Juveteach

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Sep 9, 2014
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Concord NC
www.cabarrus.k12.nc.us
Hey Guys,
I am in the middle of shaving my truck intake.
I was wondering about the hole in top of the intake that are left when you take off all the webbing and vacuum ports etc.
Think that I could use fiberglass mat to block these holes off? Or, do I need to go ahead and try to plastic weld plastic pieces back into those holes?
1st time attempt at it so I figured I'd ask and see if anyone had had any exsperience with it.

Thanks,
Mike
 
z
Hey Guys,
I am in the middle of shaving my truck intake.
I was wondering about the hole in top of the intake that are left when you take off all the webbing and vacuum ports etc.
Think that I could use fiberglass mat to block these holes off? Or, do I need to go ahead and try to plastic weld plastic pieces back into those holes?
1st time attempt at it so I figured I'd ask and see if anyone had had any exsperience with it.

Thanks,
Mike

I removed all the webbing but left the vacuum ports so I can re use all the factory lines. You need to use a special epoxy formulated for use with Nylon 6. Not much else will stick to it. Do a search on LS1tech.com
 
Ok guys, figured I've give y'all an update on this endeavor!
Actually it hasn't been all that difficult. It does take time and patience. My students find it FUN. They are learning how to problem solve and use critical thinking with this because of the shapes we are having to cut and then plastic weld back on using a soldering gun.
It does work pretty well! ....I was going to use fiberglass mat or plastic epoxy, but this seems to be working VERY well. BIG PROPS TO MARK BURCH @ A GEARHEAD FOR LIFE!!!
This is a great little project to show young hotrodders that it doesn't ALWAYS take money to make you ride your own!!
I'll try and post some pictures of it, but I think my phone setting is taking the pictures too big...gotta figure out how to size them down. If anyone knows how to resize them let me know please.

Later,
Mike

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Hey Uneek, which brand plastic weld epoxy did u use?
I call JB Weld and they recommend their plastic bonder type.
I had their plain plastic weld epoxy type.
I have some small pin holes left over...we've put a light up inside the intake and saw small holes.
So I'm going to try their plastic bonder type on there....the reviews on YouTube about it are NOT very good so I hope it'll work.
Then we'll wipe some bondo on it and smooth it out....
Good luck with yours...post some pics if u can.
Thanks
 
Juvetech I did use the JB Weld plastic weld also because it was labeled with a higher strength in PSI. I plan on doing a test by turning the intake upside down put some water in it and see if Ihave any leaks. If all is good then I'm going to use the kitty hair fiberglass and then start sanding. I don't have any pics with the plastic weld epoxy yet. But I'll show you pic I do have.
 

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I was going to mention agh4lifes video, but couldn't remember his online name. As I posted in one of his online threads, getting the plastic welded down deep , as he did, & not just on the surface, will be pretty strong.. You can also weld on ribbon strips with a hot air gun on top as filler strips, With plastic welding, you mostly melt the 2 surfaces together rather than make a weld puddle like you do with metal welding. The molecular cross linking of plastic isn't the same after welding, so any extra backside thickness is beneficial. Many black zip ties are nylon 66, though not glass filled. Urethane supply company sells stuff & has plastic welding info.

I learned higher plastic welding skills making a 2010 Camaro nose fit my el camino in dec 09'. I tapped a guardrail at approx. 60 mph a few months ago & I think the welded on flange held out better than the factory Camaro flanges seem to hold out.


I can't even see the butt weld in the upper side where it got caved in, but a little spot in the center of the front bumper that I used lord fusor adhesive on the top center at the last minute before paint ghost shadowed very shortly afterwards.
This is pretty firm proof of the difference between proper plastic welding & adhesive strength on some plastics
 
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