Looks like a little capacitor off the side of the motor. It has given me the run around more than once
Been there- done that. The rarest thing is for someone to admit hitting something hard. The blade/shaft/piston stops short but inertia keeps the flywheel turning. That shears the key and advances the timing. The symptom is backfiring and trying to run backwards. That often breaks the pull-start which can not go backwards. EZ fix to yank the flywheel and replace the key. Hard part is finding a new key for a 30 year old engine. But none of that happened. They just would not start. All the normal fixes had no affect. I mean it's a lawnmower. Given a clean carb, fresh spark plug, fresh gas, it should run and run great. Nope. It was not until I filled the dry crankcase with oil. The only kill switch on the magneto ignition is the one that is rigged to the pull-bar up on the handle. You have to hold the bar to the handle other wise it grounds the magneto and there is a brake shoe that stops the flywheel from turning. I have taken these engines apart and there is no oil-float switch that would kill the ignition. Oddly, after running with hardly any oil for who-knows-how-long- the engine did not smoke or show any distress. It still runs great.the mower hits something with the blade and stops suddenly,
Some small engines do have a low oil cutoff sensor/switchOK, I have been fooling with small engines my entire life. Lawn mowers, outboards, snow blowers, mini-bikes, weed-wackers, 2 cycle and 4 cycle. This has me stumped. My daughter has two mowers at her place, a self-propelled Troy-Built, and a walk behind Sears. Neither would start. Sometimes the Sears would start, run a couple of minutes, then die for the rest of the day. I started on the Sears because it actually showed life was easier to get at stuff. I cleaned the jet. Nothing. I re-built the whole carb. Nothing. The primer pumped fuel just fine. I tested for spark and it was solid every time. Changed spark plug. Nothing. WTF? So I have an old power washer I saved by replacing the carb with a spare mower carb I had. The Sears and the PW had Tecumseh engines and identical carbs. In fact the carb I used was from the same model Sears mower so a logical test piece. I put the PW carb on the mower. Nothing. I put the mower carb on the PW. Bango! She started and ran great. So both carbs ran great on the PW but the mower stayed dead. Now I am getting pissed. I am looking at everything now and that was when I realized it was making a squeeking sound when I pulled on the rope. Just for the hell of it I check the oil. OMG! Empty! I A-ss-u-med there was oil- there was not. But OK- that would not keep it from starting. It would cause it to break, but it should run. Well I filled it with oil and tried it. The $#!^%&* thing came to life! WHY!?! I never heard of a low-oil-moron-proof-cut-off feature. I cut my whole lawn and it never faltered like nothing was ever wrong. Then I went to the Troy-Built and checked the oil. EMPTY!!! I filled it with oil and it started right up! WTF?!? The PW that worked was low too but not dry like these mowers. So OK mechanical type guys- why is this? Since when does no oil cause a no start condition?
30 year old engines? And what does it interupt? The magneto? I really want to know.Some small engines do have a low oil cutoff sensor/switch
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