Spohn Performance
- Thread starter Shorty 504
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Not trying to hijack the thread but we make an adjustable upper A Arm set designed for a tall spindle or tall ball joint set up that require no shims and adjustments can be made on the car in an instant.
GM G-BODY Adjustable Upper A-Arms come with QA1 XD Series Chromoly PTFE Lined Heim Joints and 6061 -T6 aluminum adjuster sleeves with a wrench flat. These Adjustable upper control arms adjust on car and allow extreme camber and caster change for the ultimate performance. These adjustable arms also allow the use of the huge screw in OE Mopar Muscle car ball joints and no need for alignment shims and you also gain header clearance. Includes mounting hardware.
CHECK OUT OUR STAGE 1 AND 2 KITS!!!
Improve handling and fulfill your G-Body or S-10's built-in performance potential by installing our tubular upper a-arms. The relocated ball joint plate on these a-arms permits greater positive caster. Expect improved steering feedback courtesy of increased caster and a precise feel due to the deleted bushings and replaced with roller bearings. Features include grease-able steel cross shafts and improved header clearance. These track-tested, jig built DOM a-arms are supplied with a durable gloss black powder coat finish which guarantees your performance parts stay beautiful on your street car, drag car, autocrosser or Pro-touring machine.
Why Modified Front End Geometry is Needed
If you want to improve the handling of your ride, you must first understand what is wrong with the original geometry. From the factory, these cars were designed to understeer. To make them do this, they used a very short spindle with the upper A-arm at a steep downward angle, which results in a backward camber curve making the tires lean out of a turn, using only the edges of the tire. Not only is this bad for mechanical grip, it's also why every stock Chevelle, S-10 or G Body wears the outside edges of the front tires. Below is a diagram of the stock geometry at rest, and then in a hard turn. Notice the severe angle of the tires. All of the cornering forces are placed on a very small area of the tire.
To deal with this problem, there are several things that will help. Simply lowering the car will help to some extent, but not nearly enough to correct the whole problem. Bigger sway-bars will reduce the amount of bad camber gain, but again, it's not enough... it's like a band-aid on a gunshot wound.
To fix the bad geometry, you need a taller effective spindle height. The "effective height" of a spindle is from the pivot center of the upper balljoint to the pivot center of the lower balljoint. Tall spindles with stock balljoints, or stock spindles with extended balljoint studs will both achieve this goal.
Below is a diagram of the same car equipped with a taller effective spindle height. Notice that the tires remain near vertical using the entire tread evenly across its contact patch. This is key to getting the most grip, and life out of your tires.
The SSM Stage 1
The secret is the combination of the extra tall ball joint to match your new tubular upper arms which greatly improves the camber curves and relocates the roll center. This means more grip and less body lean. The 1" EXTRA tall upper ball joints reverse the backward factory camber curves for a huge increase in grip. They also raise the extremely low factory roll center to dramatically reduce body roll
· For stock and lifted cars this radically corrects poor ball joint angle and helps the arm clear the frame when lifted properly.
· For drag racers SSM Stage 1 Plus allows faster weight transfer and more positive caster for better top end stability.
The SSM Stage 2
The stage 2 goes even a step beyond the Stage 1 Plus and further corrects the terrible backward geometry of the factory front suspension, by using Racing Series ball joints, the ONLY ball joints made 100% from US materials in the USA!
They are much stronger, smoother, and longer lasting, than original GM, or any other aftermarket ball joint. The .5" taller lower ball joints further improve the camber curves and roll center location, significantly reducing lateral roll center migration for more predictable behavior.
They also correct the factory bump steer issues by raising the tie rod ends into proper alignment.Now with extremely improved geometry designed for the rigors of SCCA, TransAm and NASCAR your car will truly dominate the street and track!
The low-friction ball joints are legal for classes that require non take apart joints or OE style joints. Additionally, all low-friction ball joints have 32 degrees of swing angle for maximum suspension travel.
FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING KITS
Time to face the fact that your stock rubber bushings are shot. Stock rubber bushings wear out in as little as 5 years. Road oils and heat are their death, they get hard then crack.
Not just on the lower control arms but on the whole car. They wear out due to age not miles. You already know this if you are replacing suspension parts such as front or rear control arms. If your car's handling seems a bit on the sloppy side lately, then replace your mushy rubber bushings with our solid or polyurethane control arm bushing sets. These polyurethane bushings are unaffected by oil, smog, road salt, and most chemicals, so they won't soften, compress, or distort like rubber does. The steel 2 piece have grease zerks and are designed for competition cars. So, next time you turn the steering wheel, take a high-speed corner, or accidentally hit some potholes, our housing bushings will give your ride the buffer and control to handle the roads ahead. Both sets come with new grade 8 hardware.
GM G-BODY Adjustable Upper A-Arms come with QA1 XD Series Chromoly PTFE Lined Heim Joints and 6061 -T6 aluminum adjuster sleeves with a wrench flat. These Adjustable upper control arms adjust on car and allow extreme camber and caster change for the ultimate performance. These adjustable arms also allow the use of the huge screw in OE Mopar Muscle car ball joints and no need for alignment shims and you also gain header clearance. Includes mounting hardware.
CHECK OUT OUR STAGE 1 AND 2 KITS!!!
Improve handling and fulfill your G-Body or S-10's built-in performance potential by installing our tubular upper a-arms. The relocated ball joint plate on these a-arms permits greater positive caster. Expect improved steering feedback courtesy of increased caster and a precise feel due to the deleted bushings and replaced with roller bearings. Features include grease-able steel cross shafts and improved header clearance. These track-tested, jig built DOM a-arms are supplied with a durable gloss black powder coat finish which guarantees your performance parts stay beautiful on your street car, drag car, autocrosser or Pro-touring machine.
Why Modified Front End Geometry is Needed
If you want to improve the handling of your ride, you must first understand what is wrong with the original geometry. From the factory, these cars were designed to understeer. To make them do this, they used a very short spindle with the upper A-arm at a steep downward angle, which results in a backward camber curve making the tires lean out of a turn, using only the edges of the tire. Not only is this bad for mechanical grip, it's also why every stock Chevelle, S-10 or G Body wears the outside edges of the front tires. Below is a diagram of the stock geometry at rest, and then in a hard turn. Notice the severe angle of the tires. All of the cornering forces are placed on a very small area of the tire.
To deal with this problem, there are several things that will help. Simply lowering the car will help to some extent, but not nearly enough to correct the whole problem. Bigger sway-bars will reduce the amount of bad camber gain, but again, it's not enough... it's like a band-aid on a gunshot wound.
To fix the bad geometry, you need a taller effective spindle height. The "effective height" of a spindle is from the pivot center of the upper balljoint to the pivot center of the lower balljoint. Tall spindles with stock balljoints, or stock spindles with extended balljoint studs will both achieve this goal.
Below is a diagram of the same car equipped with a taller effective spindle height. Notice that the tires remain near vertical using the entire tread evenly across its contact patch. This is key to getting the most grip, and life out of your tires.
The SSM Stage 1
The secret is the combination of the extra tall ball joint to match your new tubular upper arms which greatly improves the camber curves and relocates the roll center. This means more grip and less body lean. The 1" EXTRA tall upper ball joints reverse the backward factory camber curves for a huge increase in grip. They also raise the extremely low factory roll center to dramatically reduce body roll
· For stock and lifted cars this radically corrects poor ball joint angle and helps the arm clear the frame when lifted properly.
· For drag racers SSM Stage 1 Plus allows faster weight transfer and more positive caster for better top end stability.
The SSM Stage 2
The stage 2 goes even a step beyond the Stage 1 Plus and further corrects the terrible backward geometry of the factory front suspension, by using Racing Series ball joints, the ONLY ball joints made 100% from US materials in the USA!
They are much stronger, smoother, and longer lasting, than original GM, or any other aftermarket ball joint. The .5" taller lower ball joints further improve the camber curves and roll center location, significantly reducing lateral roll center migration for more predictable behavior.
They also correct the factory bump steer issues by raising the tie rod ends into proper alignment.Now with extremely improved geometry designed for the rigors of SCCA, TransAm and NASCAR your car will truly dominate the street and track!
The low-friction ball joints are legal for classes that require non take apart joints or OE style joints. Additionally, all low-friction ball joints have 32 degrees of swing angle for maximum suspension travel.
FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING KITS
Time to face the fact that your stock rubber bushings are shot. Stock rubber bushings wear out in as little as 5 years. Road oils and heat are their death, they get hard then crack.
Not just on the lower control arms but on the whole car. They wear out due to age not miles. You already know this if you are replacing suspension parts such as front or rear control arms. If your car's handling seems a bit on the sloppy side lately, then replace your mushy rubber bushings with our solid or polyurethane control arm bushing sets. These polyurethane bushings are unaffected by oil, smog, road salt, and most chemicals, so they won't soften, compress, or distort like rubber does. The steel 2 piece have grease zerks and are designed for competition cars. So, next time you turn the steering wheel, take a high-speed corner, or accidentally hit some potholes, our housing bushings will give your ride the buffer and control to handle the roads ahead. Both sets come with new grade 8 hardware.
how long do those heim's last on the streets/out in the elements?
If guys are replacing them they aren't telling us about it. QA1 makes a nice piece.
Stopping by to mention UMI. Our Green Machine is a poster child for G Body awesomeness. Any questions I'm happy to help at [email protected] or on here.
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