one thing not mentioned is the choke and if it's properly functioning and adjusted correctly.....you don't want to start adjusting anything until you know what's working properly.
start then stall...
- Thread starter 83cutlasssedan
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Well no luck with the choke. I looked at the vacuum breaks and they seem to be adjusted properly. The rear break is already set at less than a 1/4. The front break looks like it is set properly as well and the choke plate closes almost completely when it's cold and I tap the gas before a cold start.
One strange thing that happened this morning was when I first started it cold and the engine was on fast idle after a few seconds I pulled the vacuum advance hose off and the engine quit right away. Thought that was a little strange as there should be not much vacuum going there anyway when the engine is cold?
I was wondering if maybe the idle mixture screws were set to lean. When I start it cold it runs at a low rpm probably around a thousand for awhile until it warms up. The fast idle is set at 2000rpm. After it runs for a bit creeps up to 2000.
Any other suggestions?
One strange thing that happened this morning was when I first started it cold and the engine was on fast idle after a few seconds I pulled the vacuum advance hose off and the engine quit right away. Thought that was a little strange as there should be not much vacuum going there anyway when the engine is cold?
I was wondering if maybe the idle mixture screws were set to lean. When I start it cold it runs at a low rpm probably around a thousand for awhile until it warms up. The fast idle is set at 2000rpm. After it runs for a bit creeps up to 2000.
Any other suggestions?
My car does that too but only when it's super cold out. You really got me scratching my head now.
Another thing I forgot to mention is that in the morning on the first start it will stall when I put it into gear if I don't let it warm up well. I can keep it going if I give it some gas as I shift into R or D. Just trying to narrow things down.
take a can of carb cleaner and while engine is running spray the base of the carb to see if there is any vacuum leaks and if that checks out spray along the edges of the intake....if there is a leak then the idle speed will change...
Check the heat riser valve too. A lot of guys yank them, but in cold weather they help a lot. Same with the heated air cleaner. Even with both those functioning as designed sometimes it's best to just go inside and get another cup of coffee while she's warming up......
bonne....when you're talking about the heat riser that's in between the y pipe and the passenger side manifold?...if so that's actually called the EFE valve...early fuel evaporation..it's meant to force more hot exhaust gases back up to the underside of the intake manifold to warm up the engine but it really doesn't have any thing to do with stalling problems on cold starts.
Yes pontiacgp, that's the modern name. I'm not old school, just old. He said after letting it warm up and he puts it in drive, it stalls, indicating a cold motor. The EFE and THERMAC are there to get intake temps up quickly. Every time I get a complaint of cold weather problems, 99% of the time those are missing or inoperative.
Where is the EFE exactly? Haven't had a chance to look today. Had to work and then hit a post driving into my driveway and bent the chrome trim and cracked the paint around the rear right wheel well. Don't ask me how you can hit that spot? :x I think I can pick up a new chrome piece and she'll be okay.
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